HuD 91gt

I once came across an issue where I wasn’t getting enough engagement. It ended up being when I had disassembled the clutch slave (for fun), the piston was pushed too far in and the fluid inlet was not positioned correctly. I forget the exact configuration, but it still moved but would not get the entire range of motion. Fluid was getting sent to a wrong oriface. It took 3 very experienced minds to figure out the issue (well 2, as one of them was me). Ha.

Well done! Glad I’m not the only one where it doesn’t usually start up like on TV! Lol

White smoke can be indicative of burning coolant. Drain the oil, check for contamination. Do a compression check.

Great job. Looks awesome.

As described. Had to notch the booster holes slightly left. Thus hitting the throttle bracket on the firewall. I removed it. I still don’t think I could run a piece of paper between the clutch master and the booster. Incredibly close. I also fabricated an offset clevis for the master cylinder rod to align the brake pedal.

I left Jeff a message on FB with your info.

It would be great to post up some more builds on this forum. Saying that, I should be doing the same! Jeff can be found on Facebook. He’s there pretty often and alive and active in the L series world.

I’ve use that base on the stock hub widths. Using a body panel when trying to get accurate measurements seems a bit loose. Using crossmember mounting points makes sense to me, I’m just curious if anyone had a good an accurate way other then running a square to the ground from said points and making lines. When trying to measure within 1/8”-1/16” it seems being accurate all around is key. I suppose the negative side would be a slight dog walk stance going down the road.

On the note for string alignments, how are you guys finding the center of the vehicle? I did a string alignment, based on all wheels being equal width. With adjustable control arms, I figure finding the actual center is crucial.

That’s a big project. Good for you!

My guess would be a vacuum leak too. But since your map is probably a bit of a mess, pending your IGNITION advance at idle is quite low, it’s possible coming down the RPM range the car is quite a bit happier at the higher ignition advance in the higher rev range. Basically establishing a higher idle.... until it eventually stumbles and falls down further to your original “idle”. Setting ignition advance below your planned Idle speed, a couple degrees higher is a way to stabilize your idle so when it falls in RPM, it automatically bumps up to your planned idle. Eg. 500RPM - 20 degrees 800RPM - 17 degrees (Planned idle) 1500RPM - 25 degrees If things are really out of whack, your engine could be much happier at 1300RPM and 20ish degrees of timing to the point where it just stays there.

Deutsch DT connectors are far superior to the metripack which I used on most of my build. Similar cost too. I’d definitely go that route. It’s going to take 3 full rewirings a before I’m completely happy. Haha.

Tune your idle manually. Once fully warmed up, set your base timing 15-20 degrees (I’d go 15 if stock cam, higher with a larger cam, you can adjust this once you have a stable idle. Adjust for best vacuum). Lock all idle regions with the same timing. Then dial in your VE table to get your best stable idle. Change all VE cells in the area of your idle at the same time with the same number. Once it stabilizes you can fine tune from there.

Do you have a stock cam? My aftermarket cam idled around 10-12”s pending how well I had tuned it. Stock is probably more like 16-18”. Id use Kpa but it’s been a while since I used megasquirt and I forget which was it measures idle kPa. It’s different then my Haltech. tossing a mile high of elevation is going to throw everything out the window anyway. If it’s idling nicely, take that as your baseline.

Did you ever move your LCA’s back out to stock length prior to shortening them once again?

Start from the beginning. You hear it sparking, but not creating spark on the distributor? The distributor is the first place the spark will jump. Check your distributor cap/rotor. You pulled the plugs, grounded them and tested for visual spark at the plugs themselves? megasquirt is really great for troubleshooting with its test functions.

Is it required to stick with a OEM joint of some kind? Can’t you make an adjustable length link from some heim joints?

Inaccurate dead time could certainly have an effect. We’re you running 2 squirts per cycle previously? Try a similar setting while sequential. First things first are to check everything is firing in the right order as you suggested though. Very easy to check with Megasquirts test functions.

When I do it, I will do a combination. Strip manually/chemically for all the flat portions (hood, roof doors) and have the rest blasted.

Nice job. You only say it’s idiot proof until you have a resin filled hand, and fibreglass Matt strings everywhere!

Might be silly. I once spent days trouble shooting a no spark issue. The issue ended up being my distributor not sitting all the way down on the oil pump drive. Talk about stupid.

EF civics are like little go karts. They really are fun. Don’t feel bad.

Considering the flange is solid between all runner, the answer would be no.

Anyone doing the cooling mod shouldnt have issues cutting this flange to make it work. but to answer your question, im betting that’s a definite no.

I need to find myself a can of solar flux. Doing an exhaust really eats up the argon when pack purging. When i welded my exhaust I hung it with ratchet straps. It wasn’t the best setup, but you could rest some weight in the exhaust when welding. I like your exhaust clamp!