HuD 91gt

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Pending price, I’d buy one. Intake manifold is on my project list.

With a stock cam, you won’t be reving the snot out of it. The small turbo weakness will be in the upper RPM range where it just can’t keep up with the flow of the engine. As previously said, with the stock cam, you won’t be revving high. It has the potential to make the power you want. Id try and run it. Why not. I’m also in Vancouver so I’d like to see how it turns out. Will probably have torque like a V8

He has an aftermarket moustache bar.

Perhaps photos of your setup would help. A stock R200 in a 280z have 4 bolt , U Joints setup. These simply unbolt and pull out. The actually shafts which go into the diff are simply held in with a C clip. A couple big screw drivers on either side prying evenely will over power the c clip and it will pop out.

Really really nice job. I searched for that splash guard. It doesn’t look like they sell that one anymore? Only a reproduction one, which looks slightly different?

Yes. They seem to come in 6” and 12” lengths for LS coils commonly. Are those the 6” leads, or something different?

Those are the 6” wires? Glad and to see it up and running. Curious to see how your going to get that Jeep CAS connected.

That looks amazing. Top notch stuff!

Just posting this to archive some info. Purchased Beck and Arnley wheel bearings for my 240z. Was really hoping for Japan Made. 051-3152 Made in China - only marking on bearing is RLS10 051-3160 Made in Japan - Markings , NTN, Japan WX, SX06A52C4 The bottom one is the out bearing. also purchased a the inner bearing seal. Made in Taiwan.

Easily do-able, but send the head to someone with a proven combination of headwork and camshaft.

I think all you can do is a more aggressive pad, up until you can’t keep them cool. Then focus on heat control. i don’t know about the longevity of the aluminum drums, but they must dissipate the heat quite a bit more then an aftermarket steel unit.

Yes it is possible. I believe you would want to pair 6-1, 5-2, 4-3. Get welding!

The cylinder which fire 360 degrees apart are usually paired to create the best scavaging effect.

Is there a question with this post or your just looking for input? It seems you know the issue.

Impressive. I had a hell of a time reupholstering some Boxster seats. Looks like your on the right track. Well done.

I had some weird stuff go on with my LS could too. Turned out they were knockoffs.

Does it come with those plastic barbs? I’d think hard about some brass ones.

M Factory is the way to go. I’ve put close to that amount into my OBX to get it going (had to reface ring gear surface), washed kit, and now two sets of bearings (they are expensive). Just go for a quality unit, you’ll be happier.

Add to the mix, Everlast Welder is having a decent sale. I picked up a 250ex from the Canadian website.

Has anyone boxed in a cage area into the cabin? I tried to google but couldn’t come up with much. Obviously not race legal. I did find one major Porsche company (you would all recognize the name but I’ve forgotten it for the time being) which did it to some of their special edition cars. I’m thinking sheet metal boxed area where a traditional cage would sit. Perimeter of roof, down A pillars. Then traditional cage structure from behind the driver, back. Stiffen the Chassis, possibly safe without full driving gear (slim profile and out of the way). Edit: found the reference again. Ruf made them. I’ve never been in a Z with a cage, I suppose it is space dependant. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/593488-ruf-integrated-roll-cage-irc.html

Sleeves for me too, perhaps brakes front and rear.

They say a true divided turbo/manifold is ok with cams with overlap. To what extent, I don’t know. I’ve wondered this myself.

He has a build log on here...

CD009 is way overkill. Search for a 240sx transmission, or if your dying for a 6speed, a SR20 is probably similar in adaptation.