HuD 91gt

Always thought they were neat, but rust issues really kept me away from them. When I seriously started looking for a project car, I was looking closely at British cars. Why? They know how to style a car. Everyone knows how hard it is to find the perfect vehicle. One day I stumbled on my Z. Decently priced before the huge surge, automatic (which helped the price) and rust free. Despite me not really liking the style that much, I took it home. It has been an amazing platform to learn on, I’m learned so much and spent so much money too. I won’t get rid of it due to the blood sweat a tears (multiple people have asked to “name my price”). I’ve never done so. Love my little car, even though it really wasn’t my #1 choice.

The turbo with BOV and internal wastegate saves a bunch on its own. Especially if your not much of a fabricator. It got my attention.

A little off topic, but in regards to the post above. What is everyone opinion of this setup thezstore sells. Tension control cup system. It was one of the first items I did to my suspension and I’ve always found my car to be very stiff. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20j/23-4190

Really glad to see those names being supportive. Nothing like having supporting hands of the most knowledgeable in the business. Being Canadian, those price are outrageous. But if I made US dollars, after a few whiskeys I could possibly see myself making a silly purchase one evening. Your on Amazon right? Heck, I think I spent half that on my amateur built engine in my car now. I’m curious if it makes stock power. Ha

If the problem got worse, I’d check all your new connections. If it’s still bad, look at the harness or any other areas which may have been disturbed in the process of putting in those new connectors.

Wow technology is so cool

The cat needs to get hot to work properly.

A bit of a tangent, but you bring up your sway bar was too tight. I’ve yet to read a proper way to tighten sway bar bushings.

Wide array of metal gaskets in all sorts of thicknesses. If and when the blocked is decked, Make sure to include the timing cover.

Weber manifold with injector ports?

Very impressive work. Quality is A+++

Perhaps I read their website wrong then.

I used a aluminum plate mounted to the stock location (even though my car had mechanical only it still had the holes). Then mounted carter pump to that. Ground using the mount holes.

I noticed on their webpage they offer TTT and feal top hats. Do you know what the difference is and what did you end up with?

Tap it, screw in bolt. Pull out. No?

Someone please correct if im wrong, but are stock guides not cast steel?

That makes two experienced engine builders on board with the bronze. Wish I had that info prior too... Ive only talked to Dave once but he was great over the phone and I really regret not working with him for my engine build. Live and learn.

Make sure they use a bronze guide. Cast steel will cause gulling (sp? Might not be the correct term, but extreme wear from different expansion rates and metal on metal love). My guides were brand new cast, built by a reputable Canadian Datsun shop. Valves seized in the guides when the engine was warm. After more research apparently using bronze guides with stainless valves is a well known fact. SI valves seem to show this issue more prevalently. A well known L series builder in Australia gave me some advice afterwards about using these valves. He said excessive clearances or bronze guides are the only way to use these without issue.

Just make Sure you have proper guides to go with those valves, or very large clearances within your stock guides. Was a costly mistake for me.

I don’t know the name but it was a high flow pump off of some 454 based vehicle. Super loud but did the job. When I went EFI, I tossed the surge tank idea out when I was running out of space in the back. My Walbro whispers in comparison to that Carter. Haven’t had any starvation issues using the drain out the bottom of the tank. I also haven’t been to an autox since the conversion.

The same pump couldn’t keep up with my modified L28. A $50 carter pump had no issues. Im now fuel injected and it’s come with a whole bother can of worms. In fact enough that I’ve barely driven the car over two summers (while not putting in a huge amount of effort).

Take my opinion with a grain of salt. I’d take Tim’s advice seriously though. From my internet research most people including Tim who have used an aftermarket tubular header, experience cracking. This isn’t seen much in 4 cylinder applications, but the straight 6 is does. I don’t know Tim, but he is one of the few who have gone down the unknown path of high horsepower L series engines and I’m sure has a wealth of experience from failure.

The euro L28et manifold has them. im no expert by any means, but isolsating the left 3 cylinder and the right (splitting flange in 2), and then putting something like the burns stainless double slip joint in the lowest portion of the big “U” for each side of the manifold.

Well, pending where your RB is mounted within the bay, the stock L28ET manifold is rearward based. I haven’t mounted my manifold to the block to check clearances but you would think there would be room.

Is there a reason why you have the turbo flange more biased to one side vs the Center of the manifold? Wouldn’t getting equal lengths be a little easier that way?