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jkelly

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About jkelly

  • Rank
    Regular

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Tehachapi CA
  • Interests
    Composite fabrication, metal fabrication, electrical systems, engine building, dirt bikes

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  1. Block/Head Combo options

    Thanks for the replies guys. I get what you're saying. I would hate to destroy some nice forged pistons while learning how to tune the setup, though. I've heard of people doing this and other people recommending learning to tune on cheaper cast pistons then upgrade to forged. Don't some people run up to 300 - 350 whp on cast flat tops + P90 and pump gas if detonation is under control? Maybe not. I'm certainly still learning. I think TonyD ran (runs?) a boosted L28 with flat tops and N42 at 8.5:1 CR. I'm not sure what kind of power he's making.
  2. Hood near SoCal

    That's really unique and cool! I remembered last night that I may still have the hood from my old 280z, but it's a long shot. I'm going to go look this evening. I'll get back to you. My current hood was warped by the sand blaster and in the process of trying to fix it things started getting worse. So, now it has a lot of filler on it -- no more than about an 1/8 inch, but it's over a large area. Ugh.
  3. Located in Tehachapi CA. Seller pays for shipping. Freshly painted original 240z front sway bar - $45 shipped New Red Prothane 18mm sway bar bushings - $15 shipped New Energy suspension polyurethane sway bar end links - $15 shipped
  4. Hood near SoCal

    Hey guys, I'm looking for a 240z 260z or 280z hood in good condition in the southern California area or nearby. I'm willing to drive several hours. Let me know!
  5. 240z 260z 280z hatch

    Gotcha. Thanks guys. I imagine shipping would be pretty expensive from there to CA.
  6. Block/Head Combo options

    Well I ended up buying a P90 head from someone, so I'm thinking I'll put the P90 on the N42 block with flat tops and use a Nissan head gasket for about 8.5:1 CR.
  7. 1975 280z Part Out, bushings, and more

    Sure. I should have all of those. I'll PM you
  8. Hey guys, I have a Maxima N47 head I'm selling. The MN47 head is the high quench head people use for high compression ratio builds. The one I have doesn't include a cam and would need rebuilding. Make me an offer on the MN47.
  9. 1988 300zx turbo partout

    Interested in the distributor shipped to 93561!!
  10. Hey guys, I"ve been reading around here a bit and have a few questions on what route you think I should go. I have a build thread over in the members rides section too. What I want: A streetable/daily driveable turbo car that's also fun on the track and has room for growth. 300 - 350 horsepower to start with. Budget: Budget isn't a huge concern, but it's not unlimited. Block/Head options I have: Completely rebuilt L28 NA from a 1978 280z 2+2: Rebuilt N47 head with NA Schneider .460 260/260 cam, 300zx springs Rebuilt N42 block with 0.020" overbored flat tops Non-running L24 from a 1972 240z: E88 stock head P30 stock block Non-running L28 from a 1975 280z: N42 stock head N42 stock block Maxima stock MN47 head Intake/exhaust options: Non-egr shaved N42 intake manifold with 60mm TB Turbo (?? something like a Garrett T3/T04E Stage III Turbo 50 Trim 0.63AR??) BOV (??) Wastegate (??) Intercooler (??) L28ET stock exhaust manifold Fuel/ignition management: Megasquirt 3 with MS3x board COP using LS coils Full sequential ignition Fuel delivery: Stock 240z tank Walbro 255 Carter low pressure lift pump 1 liter surge tank 5/16" fuel feed line (big enough?) 5/16" fuel return line 440cc or 550cc high impedance injectors Do you guys have any advice on what head/block combination I should use from above? Should I start looking for a P90 head? Should I swap the NA Schneider cam for a turbo cam? With the N47/N42 and a 2mm head gasket I'm still looking at almost 9:1 CR. With a P90 and the N42 block with flat tops I'm looking at about 8.5:1 with a stock gasket and less prone to detonation using the higher quench head. Any other general advice or suggestions? Once I get this figured out I'm going to start sizing my turbo.
  11. 1975 280z Part Out, bushings, and more

    Great. They're yours! Will PM you.
  12. 1975 280z Part Out, bushings, and more

    Got it. Will reply soon. These? ?
  13. Hey guys, I'm going to be around my parts car from December 23rd - 27th and can remove some parts if anyone is interested. I have a plan to remove some parts for myself while I'm there as well. Let me know what you want and I'll take a look when I get there if I don't already know I have it. Buyer pays for shipping if not already included.. If you think I'm nuts on any prices just let me know or make me an offer. I also have the following: New rear LCA Spindle Pins with freshly cadmium plated spindle pin lock bolts included -- SOLD Urethane Spindle Pin Bushing Kit (rear LCA outer bushings only) -- $30 shipped Energy Suspension polyurethane rear LCA bushing kit -- SOLD Energy Suspension polyurethane compression rod bushings -- $15 shipped Rear LCAs from a 1972 240z. The sleeves aren't usable and will need to be removed - $75 shipped I don't know why but some of the pictures are refusing to be uploaded in the correct orientation. Sorry about that. Thanks
  14. I've been spending most of my time doing body work on the hood, fenders, and deck lid. It's hard work getting a panel straight. I've been using a stud welder to shrink parts of the hood and decklid to reverse the damage done by the sandblaster. It's a long process of shrinking with the stud welder, hammering flat with the hammer/dolly, and then deciding where to shrink gain. I've done some other stuff on the side, like the steering wheel, engine bay inspection light, turn signal switch, and headlight switch/controls. Before: After. I used a Red Walnut wood stain for the wheel and SEM Landau Black for the metal. Before: After. The cadmium plating didn't come out great on this particular part, but It's not bad. It is real cadmium plating, not zinc. Started cleaning up the turn signal and headight switches/controls. I used electrical contact cleaner (aerosol), rust converter gel (for corrosion on metal parts), and scrubbed everything down. I lubed moving parts in the turn signal mechanism with a PTFE dry lubricant . Oh and what's this!? My DIY Megasquirt 3 with MS3x and JimStim boards came in! Woohoo! I'm looking forward to getting these wired up and doing some custom electrical work which is kind of my forte. I've done some printed circuit board layout in the past so I'm thinking about designing my own printed circuit board for fuses, relays, additional datalogging from the MS3, etc.
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