Mayolives

I will agree with Gollum. If the car is mechanically sound and the body is as good as you have indicated, 2k is a reasonable price. Have you looked closely at the underside of the car and inspected it for rust? Finding a decent first generation body at a fare price is becoming harder by the day. Good luck with your search.

John, I hope to be on route from Atlanta to Myrtle Bch. next Saturday morning and will stop at Kershaw to see that white monster fly....mayolives

JTI...............I almost agree with you except that the suspension should be for two months.

I purchased this setup from Dave but have not completed the build/install yet. I will say that all the parts are really fine. If quality and goods looks will stop my track car, this brake kit is worth all the tea in China.

I really got a big Ha Ha from that. What a trip....But should I be laughing??? I'm not sure.

Thanks for the suggestion but If I had just paid attention to the FSM and removed the "o" ring, I would not have had to ask for help. The older I get and the longer I work on stuff, the "stupider" I get.

The strut is not bent. I moves freely in and out but will not come all the way out of the outer tube. I stated that it would only come out about 5 " but it really moves about 10".

I need some advice. I'm installing Eibach springs and Tokico HP struts on my 82 zxt. The rears were a piece of cake but now I attempting to install the fronts. I have removed the complete assembly from the car, removed the spring, insulator, dust seal etc, and also removed the wheel hub to make things easier to handle. Perhaps brain death has set in because I have read and re-read the FSM but I can't figure out how to remove the strut from the outer tube.(The one that contains the oil.) I have removed the gland nut and the strut will only pull out about 5 inches or so but will not come out of the tube. What am I missing? What do I need to do? Thanks for your advice, I'm stumped. mayolives

My buddy has shaved the molding on his 240 and at really look "clean". IMHO, the function of this molding was to prevent water from entering into the car when it was in motion, with the window down. Water does blow into his car now that the strip has been removed but only with the window down. Not a big deal, but you ask.

Yes you are correct, olives don't grow in Myrtle Beach, but my father's name was Mayo and Mayo lives within me, thus my screen name; mayolives.

I contacted Koni today and was told that they do not offer springs for the ZX. Can anyone tell me if Koni ever made springs for the ZX? The Koni rep could not answer this question. Thanks for your input, mayolives.

Great..........We all should get one!

Ebay # 7990194809

I purchased a BHJ damper, trigger wheel and mount for the sensor from Rebello Racing. Are parts are really nice.

........."Good stuff! That boggled my mind faster than a Grumpyvette post!" Yes Grumpyvette, sometimes your posts are a bit mind boggling to us neophytes, but after reading them several times, I can usually glean a few tidbits of knowledge that is priceless. Please don't give up on those of us on the lower rungs of zdom. Thank you!.....mayolives

Yes, it is an easy fix. We cut a portion out of my 78 and replaced it with a "flatter" one. You could take a hammer to it, if you can live with the results.

Is there a member here that has an active way to check these two VIN #s for me? Thanks for your help, mayolives. (mayolives@aol.com) JN1CZ04S3CX628972 JN1HZ04S2DX566441

Dave at Arizona Z Car has said that he intends to offer a custom, billet, cnc machined, aluminum brace that would allow 1st generation z owners to use the finned, LSD differential cover with larger oil capacity. I have communicated with several members here in the past that have expressed an interest in this brace. Perhaps Dave would be more inclined to start production on this piece if he had some idea of our interest in buying it. If you are interested in having one, please respond to this post and email Dave. His address is dave@arizonazcar.com

Here you go...................Lots of head information plus plus plus http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

Searched and can't find the pictures of the different "ears" on the 280 A & B transmissions. Can someone provide me with the link?

You better believe it. They can come apart and wreck havoc on the front end of your engine and cooling system.

Tony D, You are correct about the severity of the problem with the Z32 and the potential for detonation disaster. Doing all of the preventive measures to protect a high dollar engine would not be, IMHO, an over kill if they helped to prevent a bigger problem. I will call it cheep insurance. Thanks for the good advice.

I ordered my JE Forged pistons from CV Products. (800 448 1223) It took a while to get them but I ordered them with leteral gas ports, coated skirts and double pin oilers. The CV rep. was knowledgeable and helpful.

I am nearing the completion of an F54, big turbo buildup with lots of goodies that will be installed in a road course car. Will I experience any pcv system, "oil dumping into the intake system", problems that my 90TT VG30DETT engine has always been plagued with on track? Should I eliminate the pcv system and or plumb a catch can into the system? The VG engine dumps oil in hard right hand corners and blows smoke big time. If I'm going to experience similar problems with the L6 turbo set up, I would like to address it prior to installing the engine.

Someone posted a picture and instructions with a diagram / measurements of a custom, LSD brace that would allow the use of the "finned" differential cover. I have been unable to locate dimensions and would be greatful if someone could post them. Arizona "Dave" is not ready to make them quite yet and I have searched and searched this site and all the other usual suspects. My LSD is ready to install and I am faced with having to fabricate one so that the finned cover can be unstalled. I know that I have seen the dimensions posted somewhere and hope that I don't have to "reinvent the wheel". mayolives@aol.com.