Mayolives

My thought and prayers will be with you and your friend. Always remember the good times.

David Spillman, I took the car to Winston Salem for a show last weekend and left it there at my friends shop. I will take some pictures of the splitter for you next week. The aero stuff on the front and rear of this car make it a challenge to load on my trailer.

This is good information. Thank you.

Mark, The dyno shop is in Greensboro. I would like to be there on Saturday morning Sept. 30th.

Garrett, At present I'm using a stock, 1978 transmission. I have a Nissan competition transmission that I will be trying soon but fear the closer ratios will not be suitable for a turbo car. We are still making changes to the engine and tuning it. The 55 lb Siemens injectors are maxed out at higher rpm runs so they are being replaced with 72 lb injectors. Also, the 50 amp alternator was not providing enough juice and caused problems with the battery, fuel pump, injectors and Electromotive engine management system. All this added up to not being unable to really put the engine to the test above 6200 rpm. At a conservative, 17 lb boost setting we made 410 hp and nearly that much torque. I forget the exact torque numbers. I plan to have all the changes made and test the car again in two weeks. As to the car's weight, we don't know yet. All the turbo parts and Lonewolf intake manifold really add up. The car was striped to the bone but probably still weighs about 2450 lbs. That's our guess until it hits the scales.

Where are you going to mount the cooler and what pump will you use?

My body is an 1978 280. The lsd unit is from an 1987 turbo car. I haven't checked but the ratio should be 3:70.

What temperature should a Nissan LSD unit reach on a track car? My differential temp. gauge goes "over the top" at 250 degrees after running some laps. Is this too hot?

V8dats, Yes, I still have a new PDK fab dash. pm me. Let's make a deal. mayolives@aol.com

Ross, Yes, I did the reversal, shortening procedure on both axles before I installed them. Is it possible that you had already shortened them and I inadvertently reversed them back into the longer position? As I remember it, the axles had a very "snug" fit when I installed them. Thanks for your help, Tom.

The car is on stands and not in a very good position to get pictures of the radiator, intercooler area and the rear diffuser. I will post more pictures in the near future.

I installed a pair of rebuilt cv axles in my used R200 lsd differential and after a short session on a road course track, my car acted as if the transmission was not in gear and/or I had lost the clutch. The car would not move. After being towed to my pit area, I discovered the drive shaft was turning when the transmission was engaged but the rear wheels were not moving. My first thought was a differential problem, but upon further tear down and inspection, I discovered a broken cv axle. The joint near the differential was in pieces. I purchased the rebuilt cv axles from Modern-motorsports and what occurred happened on their first trip under a load. My question is, why did the car not move with only one broken cv axle? Why didn't the other axle propel the car? I haven't opened the differential but I did drain the gear oil and it was clean and new. Any thoughts on the condition of my lsd? Is it ok? Did I get a bad cv axle from Modern-motorsports?

For those who are interested, we found our problem when testing at the dyno this past Saturday. I am using 55 lb Seimens fuel injectors and theie duty cycle was maxed out when attempting to run boost pressure above 20 psi. and we were able to tune out a little lean area that apparently was causing a slight hesitation around 4200 rpm. The Profec B Spec 2 worked best on low boost setting using 30 % gain, and on hi boost a 15% gain. Out final boost settings create 14 psi on lo and 19 psi on hi. The car now pulls hard and make gobs of hp and torque.

John, Thanks again for your input. I have a laptop but used the tuner's computer when we tested. I should have downloaded the files to my machine and will do so asap. Yes, the dyno is an expensive place to work to bugs out of my car, but I have little choice in the matter. My car is a dedicated race can, full cage, no headlights, turn signals, tags, state inspection, insurance etc. There is really no place to "road" test it.

John, Yes, I am using the tec 3R engine mgmt sys. I don't have any of the data logs. They are stored on the Electromotive guy's lap top. He mapped and remapped but could not get the hesitation to stop. We have decided to go back to th dyno this Saturday to give it another try. After reading post at other forums, I think we need to lower the gain settings. The Evo guys use this EBC but run lower settings for the gain. I'll keep you posted.

Is anyone here using a Greddy Profec B Spec II boost controller on their L28 ? I'm searching for answers concerning the controller's tuning. I'm using it on a new engine with many bells and whistles including an Electromotive Tec 3R ignition system, GT35r turbo and a Tial waste gate that currently has a 14.5 lb spring installed. I'm running a conservative lo boost setting of about 14 psi with my gain set around 50%. This produces lots of hp and torque but the engine has a little stumble around 4200 rpm and then makes steady boost to the shift point. I have tried a high boost setting of 20psi with the gain set at 45% and still have the same little engine stumble. My questions is, what gain settings are other user's running on this engine. We spent a lot of time on the dyno and have really tuned this thing to the max but I still have the little stumble. I'm convinced that it is boost controller, waste gate problem that produces the stumble. Any suggestions?

I have an interest if a group buy is in the works.

John, We will get it worked out and I do plan to be at this month's T1 event. Can't wait to hear your German stories.

My tuner is an Electromotive factory rep. who knows what he is doing. So I will rule out this as a tuning problem. After the stumble at 4500 rpm, the engine pulls hard and makes steady boost to the shift point. The engine is new, so we are doing most of the runs at 6000 rpm max. We have made a couple of 7000 rpm pulls and the reaction is the same.

If I remember correctly, one side of the controller valve is connected to the top port of the waste gate and the other side is connected to the charge pipe between the inter-cooler and the turbo. On the dyno, the engine makes boost, then stumbles at or near 4500 rpm, and then again makes boost up to the desired rpm shift point. I'm running an Electromotive ignition system and we have tried to turn the stumble out, with little success. This whole process makes a lot of hp and torque, but the stumble would make it very tricky if not impossible to handle on a road course. This car is a dedicated race car and will not be street driven.

I have a Tial WG38 waste gate with a 14.5 psi spring and a GReddy Profec B boost controller. The controller has a hi and a lo setting. I have the low setting at 14 psi and the hi set at 20 psi. When dyno tuning, I'm having problems holding boost on the high setting. If I install a 23 psi spring, will my boost controller still be able to open the waste gate on the low 14 psi setting or will the stronger 23 psi spring over ride the controller?