Mayolives

Mayolives.......My Father's name was Mayo, hence, Mayo still lives in me. Mayolives

Mike, I'm using AZC Wilwood, competition, five lug conversion on all corners. SUPER braking!

http://www.twinturbo.net

I use a DeWalt 18 volt cordless. It's the cat's meow.

I'm using Spoork's custom (Lonewolf) intake with an Electromotive Tech 3R ignition set up. We installed the map sensor in the rear of the intake body and it works as it should.

I'm using it on my track car fuel system with AN style fittings. From the tank to the pump to the fpr and to the injectors. It's good stuff and unlike the metal braided products, the installating is easy on the hands.

Too much. And I thought that I was an adrenalin junky! This guy is out there!

CSR Performance Products make an electric water pump for the L28. http://www.csr-performance.com

Not to hijack my own thread, but any thoughts about which gear oil should be used in the comp. box ?

It's a Nissan competition 5 speed. I'm really excited about having it and can't wait to give it a try.

Search has not provided any information. Could it be that this has not been discussed? I'm swapping transmissions and would like to clean and flush the transmission before installing it. I thought about using diesel fuel. Any opinions about what would work best, which procedure to use or how long to let the agent inside the transmission?

I have a good one. PM me at mayolives@aol.com.

This all sound quite reasonable to me. But if you give me a set of the nasty wide rims, you will feel beter in the morning!

There has been a lot of discussion on the subject. I have a similar problem and although I have not tried to fix it yet, I was able to find direction from searching Hybrid and reading the fsm. There are several vac. operated switches that are normally the culprit. They are located under the dash and are not easy to get to but can be replaced. The fsm explains what each one does and how to test them. Good luck!

I rebuilt mine. It worked fine. Nissan Bushing #80410-01G00, Nissan Pin #80406-V5002 are the replacement parts that I used. You will need to shorten the new pin.

Nice car. What a DEAL!!!

Nice work!

WOW!!! Nice car. A Saturday night special to the max!

My 375/350 springs with Koni adjustable shocks are absolutely bone jarring. To drive this set up on the street would be torture!

As some of you know, I'm very interesting in helping to make this Wind Tunnel test happen. If well planned, it could provide extremely valuable information for all of us. I would ask that all interested parties provide thier input, parts to be tested and dollars to support this effort. Let keep this thread going!

John, Mr Coffee has recommended that our cars seem to handle best with 2.5 degrees negative camber and about 1/8 toe in for the rear. I installed the shafts with about on 1/2" free play in them in the unloaded position. The arms could be adjusted more to give the axles more free play. I've not made a final decision yet as to where I will end up. Of course I will need to set the camber by adjusting the coil overs when I through with setting the control arms. I hope the little bit of rear toe in will help to settle the car at high speeds and reduce the wondering that causes great personal puckering.

NJeder, The differential mount is made by Arizona Z Car.

This is an update to my broken cv axles situation. After having some good input from others, I decided that my cv problem had been created by not having enough free travel in my the axles when installed with factory control arms. When the suspension was fully compressed, the axles were stressed beyond their limit and disintegrated. I've installed a set of Modern Motorsports adjustable control arms and have included a few pictures below. You will notice that the axles were not installed when the pictures were taken. I have not determined how much free space to adjust in but plan to put the axles in and then compress the rear suspension and take a better look. The control arms are very well made and the installation was very straight forward. Thank you Ross for the continued support and good products for our cars.

I had the opportunity to spend the weekend in Rockingham NC at the Triangle Z Car Club HPDE event. First generation Z cars were in short supply but there were a number of other later models running fast laps at the famed old race track. I did not take a car but instead, opted to help with staff duties for the weekend. This gave me more time to meet drivers and take a closer look at many well prepared cars. Members 2003Z (Mike) and bjhines (John) were present and both are good solid drivers. For those who have considered driving their cars on track, I would highly recommend Triangle Z Car Clubs events. They are safe, well organized events that can provide a wealth if experience and fun for those who participate.

Ross C. (Modern Motorsports), Thank you for your help and support. I have checked the static (resting) angle of the control arm as your suggested. QUOTE: "What's your control arm angles at static rest, pointing down and out about 10-15 degrees for good suspension geometry? Or pointing horizontal or upward? If horizontal or even out and upward then shafts might be being compressed to limits in an angular position. Typical rear geometry on a Z sees rear suspension with control arms" The control arms are pointing up at an estimated 15 degree angle. This is obviously causing the cv axles to bind when compressed and thus leading to failure. JT1 has pointed out that I could install stock 280 axles with the slip joints and although this could work, I believe I would be trading newer, stronger cv technology for a older, weaker setup. My thoughts are to install adjustable lower control arms and adjust them out in order to relieve the stress. I measured the available travel on a cv axle and it is approximately one inch. So I'm guessing that If I adjust the control arm out, and place the axle about in the center of it's available travel, I'll be in good shape. Is my reasoning sound? Any thoughts would be appreciated.