redzedturbo Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Okay so when i bought this car it had no brakes. (83 turbo 280zx) After new pads rotors calipers and master and booster. Viola now i have brakes. The issue at hand is the car does the majority of its braking from the rear. A lady pulled out in front of me yesterday and when she finally noticed her stupidity she just froze and stopped in the middle of the road this forced me to get on the brakes in a rather hastily manner. The car locked the rear wheels and swings the tail out! At this point i had to pull a formula D maneuver and clutch kick down shift to slide around her. This whole situation could have been avoided if my brake bias was correct. Now you know the story if some one knows how to reset a prop valve or clean it to make it work properly please chime in....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motomanmike Posted November 29, 2012 Share Posted November 29, 2012 Is there any chance you are feeding fluid to the front and rear in a different manner than before. Did you just change the master cylinder? Also, was it the correct master cylinder for your 280zx? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted November 30, 2012 Author Share Posted November 30, 2012 Stock turbo master. I am going to take the prop valve off this weekend and try to center the ball inside. Also i looked at my friends 240z and he is running the same master as me, the lines are run the same. So i think its gotta be the prop valve. THANK YOU NISSAN FOR DISCONTINUING OUR PARTS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Center the ball? Are you thinking of the brake differential pressure switch? See picture. There could be other reasons besides the proportioning valve that caused the rear brakes to lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Yes, that is what he is referring to. On the S130 I'm told that it also contains the proportioning valve. If it doesn't, then that particular car DOESN'T have one installed...there's nothing between that block and the rear brakes but a 'T' fitting right before the line splits to feed the left and right calipers. As far as either of us can tell, it's all factory installed lines...we certainly haven't replaced any of the hardlines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motomanmike Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 Do the rear brakes release without any binding once they lock? Have you verified that with the car lifted up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted November 30, 2012 Share Posted November 30, 2012 My 76 did the same thing after I got it road-worthy. The PO had installed the calipers on the wrong sides, with the bleed valves low instead of high. Poor brakes in general, the brake light would go on when the brakes were used due to the pressure imbalance from the big air bubble in the fronts, and the rears would lock if you pressed hard enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gollum Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 Yea, I'd be looking for air in the front or something else gone wrong up there. Verify front system first. It COULD be the prop valve, but I just don't hear many stories of those going bad unless being left in the elements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
traeg Posted December 1, 2012 Share Posted December 1, 2012 i actually had this happen to me also so I would love to know also! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 Don't think anyone said crud in the lines yet. That's possible, but if you'd bleed them you'd know. Just an idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted December 22, 2012 Author Share Posted December 22, 2012 Well im going to fix the issue tomorrow. Removing prop valve and installing a summit racing adjustable one for the rear brakes only. I will take pictures and post how to do the install. stay tuned. its about time the zx got some love in here. There is not as much of a wealth of information as far as modifications go on the s130 compared to the s30. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hi Def Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) Please keep us updated. Cause your right,there isn't a lot of love for our S130's. Also not a lot of help either. I actually get a bit better response from ppl of a different forum. Seems alot of ppl here just wanna make ppl read and study which I understand but wow!? Why did we donate money to betold that? Think it goes without saying,that we all read and use the search engine untill we are either fed up or outta time and that's when we look to the elders and wise ones to tell us to read and use the search engine? Like really? Thanks for updating and lettin us know what ya find out and end up doing. I have a zxt swap I'm trying to get started and its been about 15 months now. Still no real help from here besides the wiring diagrams... Which was for a ZXT to a Z. NO-ONE has any answers for the ZX swap it seems. Cpl pics would do wonders. Beens asking for those for 15months now! Still nothing. Edited December 23, 2012 by Hi Def Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted December 23, 2012 Share Posted December 23, 2012 (edited) Hi def just curious but have you read this one also? I want to know if it's helpful since it's the guide I will be using. http://www.strausz.us/zcar/turboswap/ Edited December 23, 2012 by BluDestiny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted January 6, 2013 Author Share Posted January 6, 2013 Hey all sorry about the wait. My mega squirt has been acting very retarded so the brakes got pushed too a warmer date. My AIT sensor kept blowing out ( in the the manifold) so it got moved to the charge pipe before the tb. This in turn extended the two wires about one foot for the sensor. After doing this i drove the car and started getting resets on ms1. This happening under boost was VERY VIOLENT throwing me into the steering wheel. After multiple resets and it wiping my tune and leaving me on the interstate i noticed my battery voltage was low. I charged my optima up 13.4 volts and installed a new alternator. The problem is still there resetting after car warms all the way up. It was missing at idle some after all this but ran fine as usual once warm. I went and got a new z31 turbo coil to replace mine since it was going bad. Still resetting im going crazy i have been daily abusing my 280zx for 2 years with no problems? anyone have electrical noise issues and fixes please tell me before i burn it down and build a new project with the insurance money JOKING GUYS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zphilly Posted January 6, 2013 Share Posted January 6, 2013 As for your MS... no idea... but I have had the issue you are talking about with the brakes only it was my right front brake only. Turns out, not bled properly. The backwards install may be worth looking into also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted January 7, 2013 Author Share Posted January 7, 2013 Relocation for the win! I have fixed my resetting issue with ms1. When i moved my intake air temp sensor (gm) from the intake manifold to the charge piping i ran the wiring over top where my coil wire was. SO Hugh amounts of rfi and emi (electrical noise interference) was getting to my MS harness via the ait sensor. I rerouted my coil wire under the charge piping and zip tied it to the distributor shaft away from any wires not shielded from said noise. And boom been driving all day no resets at all in log viewer. Now i can get to the brakes weather permitting. Sorry for the hold up guys the prop valve is going in soon i promise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motomanmike Posted January 9, 2013 Share Posted January 9, 2013 Yes i've had numerous noise issues and I have my IAT sensor right in my Jpipe running with un shielded wiring at the moment. I finally got my resets to go away last night. I would imagine you basically started over now using a new alternator because MS is that sensitive it seems. The noise can move.. Magnecor wires helped my problems immensely. Before that i'd try one thing and i'd have a noisy temp sensor, i'd try something else and i'd have a noisy tach signal it drove me crazy. I won't say the wires totally solved my issue but my car no longer resets and my pulse widths seem much more stable now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redzedturbo Posted January 9, 2013 Author Share Posted January 9, 2013 Mike i have been thinking about mags but there so expensive when i could go to C.O.P for same amount of money. i will end up going that route i think and it will be much cleaner. The only reason i still have a distributor is i payed 300 for a new one before my ms1 install so i wanted to get my money out of it you know but cop has a lot less noise and its all on the other side of engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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