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joa_taste

1j-vvti/Ar-5 Build

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Posted (edited)

Run it by the forum first :D. Half of my thread I think is me thinking out loud. The other half is me asking friends their advice and thoughts. I definitely can be annoying though :P

 

The thing is car being toast is ok. You being toast not so good. 

 

A lot of people use the term cage incorrectly so if you meant a roll bar then that is fine in almost all aspects. A cage though is pretty unforgiving in our cars. You can do a pretty good halo bar, but there really isn't any bouncing your head off of that which can happen in even a slow impact crash, you can add the high density foam pads, but then you have essentially a 4-5 inch diameter beam right next to your head at all times. My car in full reinforcement spec has a whole bunch of bars, people always comment on my "cage" in reailty I think I might actually be removing it if not simplifying it greatly in the near future.

Edited by seattlejester

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Started to finish the hardlines then thought of the long run. Kinda  got stuck with going to the stock hardline on the chassis to my hardlines..So after really thinking about it for a second, I switched to 8an fittings with 8an steel braided hoses.

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With that said I ran my lines to the driver side tranny tunnel of the car. My first plan was to remove the stock lines and run them the same route, but I thought against it and ran my lines elsewhere. I attached it to the bottom part of the tranny tunnel, pretty happy how it turned out. 

So my map wasn't the issue at all, it was actually the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) the three wires that go into the sensor, there was one wire that wasn't getting a connection. 

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After taking the sensor off and resodering the wire, it fired right up. Amazing what one wire could do. 
Car is up and running now. Im running a little hot tho, and a little lean... So i checked the cooling system, only had water in it. Switched over to the Zerex asian RED coolant (a lot of people swear by this so I checked it out.Burped the system. Still running hot. Remembered I never changed my therm. So i got the mishimoto one from driftmotion. Still running hot. I know for sure my timing is probably a little off. Gonna have my wiring buddy come over with his PC and check the ECU out.

So i've kinda been cleaning up wiring a little bit, and small little knick Knacks here and there. Driving it around little bit it feels really really good, even untuned feels very strong. Ill be taking it back to the shop early next week.

Side note sold my Daily today. A little bittersweet happy its gone but sucks to let it go. Couldn't stand how low it was. 

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Anyways anybody running the T3 camber arms? I kinda wan those. Want to run some negative degrees in the rear. Just a little bit lol.

Edited by joa_taste

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Hmm what do you consider hot and lean?

It looks like you have a hose, but do you have a coolant overflow can?

I know my car would continually pee on the floor from expanding coolant, I imagine if it did that long enough it would not only loose thermal capacity, but loose the benefit a sealed pressure system. 

8AN is a good choice big enough for pretty much any semblance of sane power, although is that the nylon braid hose? Not sure how that stuff will survive under the car.

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4 hours ago, seattlejester said:

Hmm what do you consider hot and lean?

It looks like you have a hose, but do you have a coolant overflow can?

I know my car would continually pee on the floor from expanding coolant, I imagine if it did that long enough it would not only loose thermal capacity, but loose the benefit a sealed pressure system. 

8AN is a good choice big enough for pretty much any semblance of sane power, although is that the nylon braid hose? Not sure how that stuff will survive under the car.

Hot: as in norm is 180-210 degrees F, and I'm creeping passed the 230s. No oil in the coolant, and vice versa. 

Lean: Im in the higher side of the wideband while on throttle the few times I've driven it. I definitely know I'm not running rich, so its more of an assumption.

 

My overflow reservoir is tubed out from the swirl pot, kinda tucked between the rad hosing and IC piping. Its definitely air tight, its sealed no leaks from anywhere, thinking its just a timing thing now. 

 

Thanks man, definitely was a better move upgrading to this setup. My bad yes its Nylon braided. Remember its almost to the bottom part of the car but not on the bottom.

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Oh wow, yea that is hot haha. I'm holding steady at 185*F. 

Hmm would definitely be worth throwing a timing light at it then if for nothing more than piece of mind.

I meant survival in just the factor of debris and such. Even steel braid can suffer debris failure, but it is more or less oil resistant. The Nylon stuff can can become a bit brittle with heat and oil. 

Definitely jealous of all the room you have to run the fuel stuff with the cell in the car.

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6 hours ago, seattlejester said:

Oh wow, yea that is hot haha. I'm holding steady at 185*F. 

I meant survival in just the factor of debris and such. Even steel braid can suffer debris failure, but it is more or less oil resistant. The Nylon stuff can can become a bit brittle with heat and oil. 

Definitely jealous of all the room you have to run the fuel stuff with the cell in the car.

Lol move your cell like mine, come to the dark side lol

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Update**

 

Sorry guys haven't posted in a little while, been somewhat busy with work. Anyways worked on the Z here and there and heres what I've done.

 

Figured out my overheating issue, it was something dumb like i figured it would be. And I didn't figure it out until i was out of town of course lol.

Basically radiators, for the most part come in from the top and trickle down to the bottom, which we all know. Come to find out our radiator, well my radiator is cross scroll. Meaning it flows from left (Inlet from engine) to right (outlet to engine) Didn't even know that were a thing. Anyways both my inlet/outlet were on the same side, so in theory it wasn't even acting as a radiator, more like a glorified surge tank. Ran into my wiring guy at the drift event this weekend, streetdriventour, and he said he know it was he cut it open and welded a divider plate in the middle to make it act as somewhat a hybrid top/bottom side scroll rad. lol Didn't really workout to well, so i had it welded and put back on the stock plenum. I had thought over buying a new one, but it worked perfectly fine with the stock L series so i kept it at that.

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Added a mishimoto oil cooler, now idle is about 170-Fish, and street driving is 185-200-F. I got a sandwich plate from suspicious garage, super easy install, basically removing your oil filter putting the sandwich plate in its place and screwing it back into the stock position. Also came with a oil thermostat that opens at 165F.

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 I mounted the cooler to my front bumper, made some brackets and used muffler u clamps for support. It gave it a nice firm feel, doesn't move around is very secure. 10an fitting of course from summit.

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Made a shift bezel to take away in-cab heat, and cosmetic look. Used a rubber shift boot from a mazda miata 1994 i believe. And went to home depot for  some sheet metal, cut accordingly to my liking and riveted the bezel on. I really wanted to reuse my stock center console, but with the shifter being so far back, or further back, and my hydraulic brake being right there. I thought against it, and sold it.

 

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Picked up some Takata harness' from a local. I got the pair really really cheap from a fellow Z enthusiast, Come to find out they are real, just expired, but made for a roadster, so they are also real short lol. The eyebolts for the wastestraps go into the old stock seatbelts, but the shoulder harnesses are way too short to hit the ground. Kinda pissed off for a second, but figured i would get a inch thick bar to be welded in the back to where i can put the eyebolts onto. A project for another time. Next proj will be 1" Willwood Master cylinder, 280z brake booster upgrade. My brake booster is failing, and I feel like my brakes should feel a lot better than they do. I remember i never upgraded from the stock MC.

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Like i said earlier, I drove the Z out to the speedway to watch some friends at the drift event. I got quite a bit of love out there, had seen someone post pics of the Z on instagram, and they gave me all the pics they took of it. Hope you guys enjoy. I kinda wish he got pics of the full car.

 

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actually just found another pic on IG. 

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So just about ready to tune it, and i run into the next issue. lol fix one thing, another breaks..Its a vicious cycle. Anyways my wire in the #1 cylinder port is really finicky. Come to find out its got a hairline crack in it. So it'll run fine then when it wants to it'll run crappy. Did some reading on a few forums to see what others have done, and read this is a common issue for our motors. Did more research and read about the "wasted spark" system the jz series has. Meaning 3 coils feeding 3 wires. Found there are multiple options for both keeping it the same type of wasted spark system I.E 1jzz, or the super spark upgrade. On the other hand i could go to something like x6 coil setup. I.E Audi R8, or Lq9 from the Ls. First thought was to buy one wire from someone locally, or online just to get the car to tune. I figure if i change one i should change them all, so the lifespan is somewhat the same. If one is crapping out, then another is probably going to...atleast with my luck lol. Then thought about buying the superspark upgrade and paying for it once and done. But i've read in drift works sometimes they end up having the same issue. Also considered buying brand new for them, but for cheaper i could get the Ls series or R8 style. I really like how the Ls series sits outside of the plug tunnel and comes with its own ignitor, making the capability of running without the stock Jz ignitor. (read this can only be done with an aftermarket ECU, then again read elsewhere stock ECU is fine) so not sure what to believe there. A lot of guys are running the LQ9 coil pack enough to where there is a bit of info for the swap. Cx racing even makes a bracket for the new wires. 

I honestly have been leaning towards the R8 coil packs. Brand new you spend 172$ for the six and can be had at most part stores for around $20 - $30 new. Theres mixed reviews on this route, but most are good, even the rb26 gtr guys run this setup. My wiring guy gave me a great price on install, and also runs this setup on his. He said he really suggests this, and from remembering from an earlier post he mentioned switching out the coil packs before going to a bigger turbo system. Here's what I'm looking at, let me know what you guys think.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/ignition-coil-priced-each/06a905115d/

Filmed a vid to show you what the car sounds like at the moment, where my wideband is, and the faulty wire i talked about. I think this is the first vid i made with the GoPro i got at my company christmas party. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by joa_taste

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That's cheap for 6 coils. Are they smart coils or do you need an ignitor? I saw enough about the cracked coil issue I just went with IGN1A's. Not having a coil pack cover for my head also helped since the bracket to mount them replaces the cover and it was cheaper.

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1 hour ago, Geno750 said:

That's cheap for 6 coils. Are they smart coils or do you need an ignitor? I saw enough about the cracked coil issue I just went with IGN1A's. Not having a coil pack cover for my head also helped since the bracket to mount them replaces the cover and it was cheaper.

Yes, they are smart coils from what i've read.

This is what i've read that had most info about the R8 coils. Seems like the GTR guys use this a lot. I've found more info on their forums than, on xjz forums.

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/forum/all-things-skyline/general-skyline-tech/65776-ls2-truck-coils-vs-audi-r8-red-top-coils

How do you like IGN1A's? I like how cheap the Audi coils are, and the availability. 

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7 hours ago, joa_taste said:

Yes, they are smart coils from what i've read.

This is what i've read that had most info about the R8 coils. Seems like the GTR guys use this a lot. I've found more info on their forums than, on xjz forums.

http://forums.gtrcanada.com/forum/all-things-skyline/general-skyline-tech/65776-ls2-truck-coils-vs-audi-r8-red-top-coils

How do you like IGN1A's? I like how cheap the Audi coils are, and the availability. 

I didn't like paying for them. At a little over $65 a piece it sucked. However they are strong and very reliable. I've used them on my SR20 a long time ago and they were great. The only thing I've seen with Audi coils was while I had a large Audi dealer on my route when I slung tools for Snap-on. Tons of cars were in there with dead coils.

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On 9/27/2017 at 10:14 PM, Geno750 said:

I didn't like paying for them. At a little over $65 a piece it sucked. However they are strong and very reliable. I've used them on my SR20 a long time ago and they were great. The only thing I've seen with Audi coils was while I had a large Audi dealer on my route when I slung tools for Snap-on. Tons of cars were in there with dead coils.

Yeah i've seen a few bad threads about the audi coils. Then again I've seen some good ones. Doesn't seem like it leans more toward negative feedback. 

9 hours ago, Nv_s30 said:

Damn I miss my wheels lol I kinda regret going 17's looking at how good 15's look lol

I get a lot of compliments my man. They look good, your new wheels look good on your car tho.

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