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Picture of my trial fit. Ls1/ Datsun 510.

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The radiator looks like it's going to be a tight fit. I think routing the intake will be equally as interesting. I ordered a set of sanderson block hugger headers which look as though they'll fit when the firewall is cut and the engine is moved back enough to they clear the steering box.

 

I thought about the toilet paper idea, but i like the thought of retrofitting a bidet into the passenger seat better, although i'd have to have a water tank somewhere...

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The radiator looks like it's going to be a tight fit. I think routing the intake will be equally as interesting. I ordered a set of sanderson block hugger headers which look as though they'll fit when the firewall is cut and the enging is moved back enough to they clear the steering box.

 

I thought about the toilet paper idea' date=' but i like the thought of retrofitting a bidet into the passenger seat better, although i'd have to have a water tank somewhere...[/quote']

 

 

use the water from the coolant overflow tank :)

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I still cannot believe it actually fit inside the engine bay !!

 

There's about 3" on both sides from the coil packs to the strut towers.

 

As soon as i began wrestling the engine and cutting the radiator support, i realized why this hasn't been done before (that i know of).

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Thats gonna be just crazy! I love it! How much does that car weigh anyways?

 

10s for sure. :mrgreen:

 

Terry

 

Terry' date=' according to a recent ebay ad (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1972-datsun-510-S15-SR20DET_W0QQitemZ4622514018QQcategoryZ6188QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem), the stock weight is around 2140. I'm guessing with the cage, and engine swap, i'll be closer to 2300?

 

Did i mention i have a ported throttle body, .588 lift cam, headers, and a lightweight flywheel?

 

neat stuff tho i cant wait to see it all the way in and how the exhaust is going to work

I was thinking upswept headers :wink:

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I'd remove pretty much all of the firewall, hack up the trans tunnel until you get it where you want it. Then rebuild around the engine and trans. IMO if you can't fit the radiator up front I'm kinda doubting that it's going to handle well at all. Too much weight too far forward. Don't know if that matters to you or not though...

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Well, what do you think the radiator and it's coolant weighs? Water is 8 lbs/gal, probably 2 gallons, then there is the radiator itself, say 10-20 lbs depending on what you buy, so you're moving probably 30-40 lbs. The engine weighs 450 lbs, trans is 150. So moving those back 6 inches or whatever is going to have a much bigger effect than moving the radiator back. You might do both, but then also figure on the weight of the tubing used to move the coolant to the back and the coolant that's inside the tubes, you'll move the center of gravity back but increase the total weight.

 

Do you know Dennis and Peggy Hale? They run the NorCal NASA autoxes in Marina, CA. It was shut down for a while but they're back up and running again. Might want to take a trip down and talk at them for a while, and do some autoxing while you're at it. They had an autox 510 with a 215 that they built specifically for lowest PMOI. They might be able to tell you what NOT to do. Supposedly there V8 510 is wicked fast when it's pointed the right direction, but keeping it pointed the right direction is apparently the problem. Now they just stick to driving "Pinky" their EP 510 mostly.

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Well' date=' what do you think the radiator and it's coolant weighs? Water is 8 lbs/gal, probably 2 gallons, then there is the radiator itself, say 10-20 lbs depending on what you buy, so you're moving probably 30-40 lbs. The engine weighs 450 lbs, trans is 150. So moving those back 6 inches or whatever is going to have a much bigger effect than moving the radiator back. You might do both, but then also figure on the weight of the tubing used to move the coolant to the back and the coolant that's inside the tubes, you'll move the center of gravity back but increase the total weight.

 

Do you know Dennis and Peggy Hale? They run the NorCal NASA autoxes in Marina, CA. It was shut down for a while but they're back up and running again. Might want to take a trip down and talk at them for a while, and do some autoxing while you're at it. They had an autox 510 with a 215 that they built specifically for lowest PMOI. They might be able to tell you what NOT to do. Supposedly there V8 510 is wicked fast when it's pointed the right direction, but keeping it pointed the right direction is apparently the problem. Now they just stick to driving "Pinky" their EP 510 mostly.[/quote']

 

 

Don't know if you want to Talk to Dennis about V8 510's. He is not really for them too much. He can certainly give you some advice aobut the handling though.

 

I posted your pics on the 510 internet email forum list. Lots of comments so far. I own 4 510s and my 240Z. If you need any info or parts, let me know. I have been into 510's for over 20 years.

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I sent him an e-mail...his reply was a little discouraging, but not enough to stop me.

 

> I understand that you have a pretty mean buick 215

powered 510

 

True, 300hp full race 8500rpm motor. Mounted so far

back that the front crank throw is at the original

firewall. 2000#, 500# per corner. 10" slicks. It is

almost perfect on paper. It cost a freaking fortune.

 

>that handles rather well.

 

Absolutely false. It is ALWAYS slower than my 200 hp

L18 powered EP class on 8" slicks 510. They are both

autocross only cars.

The directional stability is terrible. The chassis is

too short and too flexible. The rear suspension goes

between trailing throttle over steer and power

oversteer. The low polar momoent is impossible to

predict. It breaks EVERYTHING. It has even snapped a

rear trailing arm pivot bolt. It seldom actually runs

5 minutes without breaking something.

There is no way to supply enough air to cool the

motor. It has a huge radiator diagonally mounted in

the original engine bay with fully shrouded push and

pull fans. It has all electric pump drives to keep it

circulating after shut down just so that is will still

crank over and restart in less than a half hour. It is

red.

It makes great noises and looks great, but is a total

failure as a 510 or even as a Buick.

 

>Would it be possible for me to talk to you in detail

and get some suggestions about what to (and what not)

to do with my swap?

 

Don't do it.

A Z has been converted very well with an LS1, by Dave

Kipperman in Roseberg OR, but it cost well over $50K

by the time the chassis was re-engineered to handle

over 250hp. Z chassis are even shorter than 510s and

are in big trouble for that.

There is no way known to harness over 200hp with the

510 semi-trailing arm rear suspension design. Both the

semi-trailing oversteer and general flex are trouble.

510s work because they are light, when they work.

2000# and up they lose that charm. A V8 ain't gonna

get you there. No V6 nor turbo conversions have been

worth a crap yet, much less V8 conversions.

 

Dennis Hale

 

 

THOUGHTS ON THIS ANYBODY?

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That's what I meant when I said "They might be able to tell you what NOT to do. Supposedly there V8 510 is wicked fast when it's pointed the right direction, but keeping it pointed the right direction is apparently the problem."

 

Dennis told me all about it one day. They had it all figured out as to how to build it with the lowest PMOI possible, put a ton of money into it, and like he said, it basically sucks to drive. I was kind of thinking he might be able to give you advice like "Don't move the engine too far back, or you'll end up with something undriveable" and that sort of thing.

 

EDIT--That last bit about the turbos and V6's basically means that his L18 race car is faster than all of the turbo, KA24 and VG30 engined cars he's come across. To him that's "not worth a crap."

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I sent him an e-mail...his reply was a little discouraging' date=' but not enough to stop me.

 

> I understand that you have a pretty mean buick 215

powered 510

 

True, 300hp full race 8500rpm motor. Mounted so far

back that the front crank throw is at the original

firewall. 2000#, 500# per corner. 10" slicks. It is

almost perfect on paper. It cost a freaking fortune.

 

>that handles rather well.

 

Absolutely false. It is ALWAYS slower than my 200 hp

L18 powered EP class on 8" slicks 510. They are both

autocross only cars.

The directional stability is terrible. The chassis is

too short and too flexible. The rear suspension goes

between trailing throttle over steer and power

oversteer. The low polar momoent is impossible to

predict. It breaks EVERYTHING. It has even snapped a

rear trailing arm pivot bolt. It seldom actually runs

5 minutes without breaking something.

There is no way to supply enough air to cool the

motor. It has a huge radiator diagonally mounted in

the original engine bay with fully shrouded push and

pull fans. It has all electric pump drives to keep it

circulating after shut down just so that is will still

crank over and restart in less than a half hour. It is

red.

It makes great noises and looks great, but is a total

failure as a 510 or even as a Buick.

 

>Would it be possible for me to talk to you in detail

and get some suggestions about what to (and what not)

to do with my swap?

 

Don't do it.

A Z has been converted very well with an LS1, by Dave

Kipperman in Roseberg OR, but it cost well over $50K

by the time the chassis was re-engineered to handle

over 250hp. Z chassis are even shorter than 510s and

are in big trouble for that.

There is no way known to harness over 200hp with the

510 semi-trailing arm rear suspension design. Both the

semi-trailing oversteer and general flex are trouble.

510s work because they are light, when they work.

2000# and up they lose that charm. A V8 ain't gonna

get you there. No V6 nor turbo conversions have been

worth a crap yet, much less V8 conversions.

 

Dennis Hale

 

 

THOUGHTS ON THIS ANYBODY?[/quote']

 

Hate to say I told you so but Dennis is not a fan of V8 510's.

 

Keep in mind that Denis likes to compete in his 510's on then auto-x circuit. He is really into handling.

 

It all depends on what your intended purpose is for the car.

 

Do you want a street cruiser that will surprise the likes of Corvettes, Vipers, Porshces, Ferarris, etc. and tear up the 1/4 mile. You can have that.

 

Do you want a road race/auto-x car that will kick but on corvettes and vipers. You can't have that, unless you have very deep pockets, build a tube chassis race car and bolt the 510 body onto it and even then it might not work.

 

What do you want it to do?

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