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L28e To L28et Swap

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Guest alex280z

i bought a 1978 280z runs perfect only 78,000 miles, started my turbo swap with a t3/t4 turbo, RC 1000cc low imp. fuel injectors, 65mm throttle body, solid lifter p90, crane cam camshaft/valve springs, milled flywheel with zoom stage 2 clutch, cant wait to see the outcome

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O2 sensor is the same and the head temp sensors are the same.

 

I think the injectors are a big deal. First of all, the ECU thinks they flow more so at any given time frame they are open the turbo injectors will flow out more fuel than NA ones... not just at peak output.

 

Your problem sounds like a boost leak. Do you smell fuel after you get into boost and hear it pop? I did, and when I would enrichen the mixture it seemed to help but I was just dumping more fuel into a leaking pressurized manifold. I had several leaks. One on all the hoses on top of the intake which I don't think you have, one in the lines goines to or from the carbon canister. I got rid of all of that. And the third at the base of the injectors. Did you get new O-rings for your injectors? Do you have pics of how you mounted them?

 

so ya, I think I'll return my A/F gauge.

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i thought it was a vacum leak at frist but iam running 20 to 21 under 0 on the vac gauge.....

 

the na fuel pump and the turbo fuel pump push the same max flow rate ...

68 psi max .

turbo or na ..i had my homie at the parts store look this up ..they sell you the same part for NA or turbo ...

i also looked this up in hayness . "68 max psi"............

with my fpr , i can set it to whatever psi i want to , so it will bring up as much fuel to the rail as i want ...i cant get it passed the 68psi mark you can tell thats all the the pump can take and starts to flutter right about the 61 psi mark.

running at 50psi now and its working like a champ ..but no matter how much fuel you put in the rail .the injectors will only flow to there 200cc max limit .

 

 

afm SEEMS to be working good ..when i turned the ajuster screw out i could here the change in the idle , after it settled .......my car wont start without it being pluged in ..

 

it realy acts like its the flow rate ....great idle and air fuel gauge sits in idel zone ..rev it even just a little and the gauage drops to lean ...rev it to much and the gauge goes lean to the point where it drops off and there is no reading ...let it up and it comes right back ...

like a said i can drive it

if i drive lite and dont step down ...

 

stock flow rate for Na injectors = 200cc turbo's injectors flow rate = 280cc

that is a big diff... for sure iam getting injectors frist ;)

 

injectors001.jpg

 

injectors002.jpg

 

my hayness book did not have the injector wire color code ..i was very carefull when switching the wires around and they way it idles so clean i dought i got it wrong .but if anyone has the injector color code for 1981 cars then please post it up .

there is not alot of posting done for the 81 ..not alot of them left ? or just not alot poeple willing to post up about it....hmhmhmm .there is a nice post on the z31 ecu swap for 81 ...

thanks to afshin and 280z turbo ...

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Thanks B

 

Tryed to weld up a spot nere my test pipe ..i think iam going to weld and new piece in there and get rid of the leaky test pipe crapper :ugg:

 

turned the afm screw out more and it does seem better .

also swaped Tps sensors ..i think it was better ....... than the one that i took off

was really old looking on the back side .

 

tryed to tighten my ex manifold bolts but burnt my hand ..going to come back to that one when she's cold..........

seems like i have a little leak on one or two off the manifold blots ...not sure witch one mabe #three

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I think the reason there isn't much info on the 280ZX on this board (or on the net) is due to the lack of interest in them. The S130 and the Z31 aren't very popular within any crowd. The engine swap hybrid types like the S30 cars for thier weight and the modern crowd likes the Z32 for it's touring characteristics.

 

But people like us are slowly changing that. The S130 seems to be gaining some popularity just in the time I've been a member here, so the future is looking bright for our cars.

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ya sence i got mine like five other people in this town got one ....more and more i see them around ...there is a white 1978 fully msa kitted 2+2 ..

he is a old guy...i seen him and pulled up next to him at a light right befor i did the swap ..

he gave the big tumbs up as i kicked it out around this corner ...

i want to kick out again .......

 

 

ANYONE have any Turbo injectors they want to trade for a header ..

s%$! bring me injectors and you pretty much could have any parts you want...

i got plently .....Anyone need a Na ecu i got three that work great .

two heads a n47 and a p79 . a full set of nice stock six spoke rims and tires .

if anyone one wants them or needs them I will trade for ...

a SET of turbo injectors .or sell for REAL cheap ..

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when I had my leak at the base of the injectors I could not tell at idle. I had full 20 pounds of vacuum and I even sprayed carb cleaner right on the base of the injectors with no change in the idle. It wasn't until boost hit that the seals moved out and let off air.

 

I only found out by a wild guess and changed the injector holders.

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after rechecking the rack seats , i can see why this wont fit without the cross member :( lame .

well i guess i can just use the turbo cars rack with no problems ..cant hurt a guy for trying .

good thing i posted about this i would have been pissed if i got hit with removing the turbo cars rack at the last second .

.

thanks for looking out aarang :icon47:

 

so you're saying the 1979 manual steering rack is not a bolt-in for the 1981-83 power steering models?

 

I wonder if there is any difference in the cars with a power assist rack like mine? I see a '79 in the yard and I'm thinking of going manual steering. My rack is leaking like crazy.

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the rack seats are way differnt on the 79 manul rack..if you do want to swap it .you will need the cross member ....all the rack seats on all three racks only go with the cross member they where installed with :( I would have done that in my swap but i didnt have air or air tools ...its funny two of my friends brought that stuff over the day after the swap ...lololololo well i have it now , i guess .iam going to remove the turbo cars cross member befor that car goes back to the junk yard..... going to try keep everything so that i can swap it someday .

So if you want to swap rack setups in your car rember you will have to get the cross member from the car that the rack came from ..........

 

when i put the turbo injectors in i will make surely sure that the seals are in like flin ...............:P

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Three words: Breaker Bar Hammer. That's all you need and you shouldn't exude too much force. Just a good long solid breaker bar and some good taps with a hammer and there you have it.

 

But I'm a firm believer that if a job is extremely difficult then you don't have the right tools. So maybe it be best for you to use air tools.

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started her up this evening and let here idle she prRRRRs real nice .took her to the store and back on lite throttle ...i as soon i step on her she leans out and chokes ...injector money got there so it should only be a few more days untell , i know for sure if its just the injectors NOT giving it the right fuel ratio. .

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did some more tuning and messing around this afternoon trying to find a vacum leak of any kind ..i took the J tube off and tryED tighting up the manifold bolts again .....i have to say that getting under there with the turbo is no eazy task ......i got as many as i could ..it sounds better but i still think the ex manifold is leaking a bit .it always takes time for the gasket to seal up under there , but for sure its better .i checked everywhere high and low ..

if there is a vacum leak , i sure couldnt find it ...well injectors will be here at the end of next week pretty much out of ideas untell i add more fuel ..or swap afm's

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yes jfairladyz is a good guy he helped me out on a problem or two not so long back .......

i have already messed with the afm giving it

a new swipe spot and cleaning it ...

 

iam looking into a few things if the injectors fail to fix it .

i will clean all connections on everything ecu plugs

afm plugs any and all plugs .

after reading alot of posts iam now pretty sure that fuel ratio is the cause

 

ie 185cc phyton NA injectoRs are not going to even give her nere the right amount of fuel vs the 265cc turbo injectors...

 

timeing seems awsome she fired over first try after not being started for 24 hours .idle is great ..temp is great runs cooler than the na .oil presser reads the same as the na strong and good showing no signs of being wierd .....watching the air fuel gauge she starts lean as she gets warmer it climbs to the last ideal or frist rich bar .slowly rev her she sounds fine .rev her hard she stumbles alittle

rpms will climb to 5000rpm but poping will happen if she's pushed .

when slowly reved air fuel drops to or into the lean bars . reved hard gauge drops off the map....

if i let her rev to far i here it popop .i try to never let that happen .

 

if driven witch has been very very little once every other day just down the street or up the block and back .or a trip out to my girls house ....

air fuel gauge will be at ideal just cruseing but if gas is steped on it will drop to lean or uder lean

{off the guage }i can rev to about 3000rpm befor it starts to stumble gauge will drop off the map below lean...

fuel pump is working great fpr reads 50 psi if revd goes right to 55 or 56psi

if i turn it down to 35 psi .then rev it without load on the motor

she stumbles way faster at like 2200rpm and stumbles worse if i try to go any higher .

i have it tuned so i can get by just to the point where boost would start ..

i can here the turbo start to kick in but air fuel is no where close to where in needs to be gauge goes way lean ...vacum gauge reads strong at 19 to 20 under 0...AS i get to 0 on the vacum G i here that turbo wanting to spool ...

.........O I CAN HERE IT .......IT SOUNDS SO F-ING SICKKKK .

but i got to be real careful to make that happen ,the air fuel gauge

is droping off the map and then it starts to buck and

stumble when doing this ..

 

did i say i was being real carful during all tests ..i was! i dont want to mess anything up .

 

all of these things have made me learn alot , about "how it all works"..

reading though posts and learning more all the time .

there are alot of nice Z 's with realy sick setups on this site ...

thanks to all there hard work and reading what they left for us we can all learn alot ..

i would like to say a big THANKS to anyone that has ever posted ..

thanks for keeping a good flow of info for EVERY z owner to learn from :)

mabe someday i will feel confidant eff to install a megasquirt setup ..

i have been reading up but there would still be alot of reading and work to be done befor i would go jumping in to that .

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hello Z brothers... well im looking for some help. Ive looked and searched through hybridz for the turbo swap on 240z and found stuff but kinda confusing. I dont know if you guys can help me but im having some trouble on the wiring harness. Pretty much i got everything on the car and now im just trying to hook up the electrical stuff. Im having a lil problem with the fuel pump relay. Theres the Blue/Red wire, Black/White wire, and Green wire. How do i hook these wires up. Like i said ive seen most of the diagrams and posts theyve made on here but still cant get it. The fuel pump relay doesnt click i only here the EFI relay click. Where do i hook up the fuel pump to??? Car cranks but fuel pump doesnt turn on. I have installed a new MSD elect fuel and ran a wire direct to battery and it works. Somewhere ive done something wrong but i dont know what. I know you guys are doing turbo swap into 280zx N/A but maybe you guys can help me. Any help will be appricaited. Email me if you guys can help [email protected]. thanks guys.

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Could it possibly be an ignition problem? I've had one go out on me, where sometimes I'd turn the key and the car would turn over but the fuel pump wouldn't kick in, and then sometimes the other way around. Fickle things those worn out keys.

 

Probly not an end-all answer but something to think about.

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