Jump to content
HybridZ

NewZed

Members
  • Posts

    6608
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    57

NewZed last won the day on January 22

NewZed had the most liked content!

3 Followers

About NewZed

  • Birthday 01/01/1960

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    . Washington State (Moved)

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

NewZed's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • Conversation Starter Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post Rare
  • Collaborator Rare
  • Posting Machine Rare

Recent Badges

99

Reputation

  1. The drums might be rubbing on the backing plates. Not uncommon to get a bend in it when working on the brakes. You'll see a shiny spot.
  2. Which end? If the piece in the cabin broke you can use Vise-grips. If the end under the hood broke you'll have to figure something out.
  3. Sometimes a rocker arm will just be noisy. Has any work been done on the head? You might check the wipe patterns on the rocker arm wear/rubbing pads. Where the cam touches the rocker arm. It's not uncommon for people to get the wrong lash pads installed. I've even seen where the cam lobe runs off the end of the pad. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50485-rocker-geometry-woes/ . . .
  4. These overhead cam rocker arm manual lash adjustment engines are naturally noisy. Have you adjusted the valve lash? It's the first item in the Nissan FSM tune-up chapter. By the pictures and video, your lash is certainly not too tight. It looks a little loose, by the extent of the brown on the cam lobes. It doesn't sound terrible. It might even be an injector. You can disconnect the injectors with the engine running to see. Pull the clips so the injector plugs are loose, put the valve cover back on and let it run. Pull each injector one by one and see if anything changes. If the noise is still there after adjusting lash. . . .
  5. NewZed

    Pictures

    Here's a pasted image. Just for reference, it's not the web site. I think I've seen the -200 error when I tried to upload a certain image format. Might have been a Paint file. Maybe try saving your picture in a different format and retrying.
  6. What are your short-term and long-term plans? Should be pretty easy to get it running again if you want to have a driveable project. Give more history about the car. How many miles? How long has it been sitting? "A couple years" probably means ten. When was the last time it ran? If it ran before you don't really need to check cylinder pressures. First thing might be to check the fuel quality in the tank. Don't turn the key on if the fuel is bad the pump will prime some of it through the fuel system. Check the oil for water. Check the air filter and intake tubing for mice nests. Many small things you can do before turning the engine to get a good head start on getting it running again. classiczcars.com also has Factory Service Manuals. Since you're in Utah I wouldn't be so sure about the advice to remove the windshield. You'll know if it leaks after you wash it. No need to create more work for your self unless you know it's necessary. Good luck. p.s. take a video of the engine. We'll see if any parts are missing.
  7. I think that you are right. Surprised that it fits in there the wrong way. Does it actually fit or is it just jammed in? Look more closely at the various drawings and you'll see.
  8. My experience has been that when the parts are installed correctly you can tell. I'm not even really sure what you're talking about, to be honest. Hard to see how a person could get it installed incorrectly. Post a picture. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14663421&cc=1209226&pt=10070&jsn=383
  9. It's designed to "stick", it's a jam nut. Threads against threads. The last guy probably over-torqued. One trick to get more force on your wrenches without smashing your knuckles or contorting your body or applying force to the rod ends is to set the wrenches up with about a one-inch gap between them and use your grip strength to apply the force. Squeeze them together. Don't get your fingers between them. And if the wrenches are slipping use Vise-grips. Also, don't forget about leverage. Longer wrenches.
  10. Try explaining that catalytic converters were not used until 1975. The cop might have assumed that the loud exhaust meant that the cats were gone. Take a copy of the Owners Manual and or the FSM pages that show that there is no catalytic converter. Don't talk about anything under the hood. Not a word. Also point out that the car was properly tagged and registered with the equipment the cop cited as deficient. And apologize for your brother's stupidity. https://sciencehistory.org/stories/magazine/clean-machine/#:~:text=Beginning with the 1975 model,%2C nitrogen%2C and carbon dioxide. Three years later the recently created Environmental Protection Agency mandated that all cars beginning with model year 1975 be outfitted with catalytic converters to meet emission standards. Thousands of researchers were put to work by catalyst companies and car manufacturers. General Motors alone, at the time the country’s largest carmaker, put 5,000 people to work on catalytic converters.
  11. No, you just pull the bearings off of the front of their shafts. The countershaft bearing is pretty tight to the gear and takes some trickery. The mainshaft bearing needs a puller with long arms. You can push the rods back to get more room. The transmission will have multiple gears engaged but it won't matter. When you reinstall the front case put it in a single gear (one rod moved) to avoid locking up the transmission by accident. Here's a decent video about the countershaft bearing, different tranmsision but same concepts. He did the same thing I did, clamping a two jaw puller in to the gap, otherwise the jaws pop off. The mainshaft is a more normal operation but the length of the shaft has to be managed. It takes some work. If you have friends that have pulled bearings or gears it might be worhtwhile to get some more ideas and tools on-hand. Notice the odd combination. Go to 4:00 if it doesn't start there.
  12. 4th gear doesn't use the countershaft, it's direct drive. That's a good clue. Sounds more like the countershaft bearing. Looks like you'll need to split the cases, so you might as well do the mainshaft/input shaft bearing also. It's not a super-finesse job. Just needs some ingenuity. It's fun. Part of Z ownership. Here's a good illustration of the parts you'll be looking at. I'm sure that there are "how-to" videos out there somewhere. You can get a factory service manual on the internet that shows how to take it apart. Good luck. https://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/Transmission2.htm
×
×
  • Create New...