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Most car companies are going to have a switch operated off of intake temperatures is my guess. If you want it basic, you can put it on a toggle switch and then turn it on and off as needed and maybe add an intake temp gauge to the cabin somewhere. Another option is maybe tee off of the electric fan and let the fan operation also turn the intercooler fan on and off? Call Godzilla Raceworks in Texas and ask them what they think.

Hello HybridZ folks, I need some recommendations on how to drive my Bosch Intercooler water pump with my MegaSquirt V3.57 ECU. This is the first time I have setup an Air-To-Water intercooler. What I really like about this setup is the cooling ability of the Intercooler and the very short intake track from the turbo to the manifold. My question for the forum is how to drive the pump as I don’t know how the OEMs do it. The Bosch pump (0392022002, flows 317 GPH, and pulls 3.2 amps) is used on Ford supercharged Mustang Cobras. I could use an On/Off setting or PWM configuration. It doesn’t make sense to leave the intercooler pump on all the time. Currently I just have a switch on the console to turn the pump on and off. Possible MegaSquirt configuration options to drive the Intercooler pump is (On/Off or PWM). Configure the Water Injection option (Pump Output) to turn the pump On/Off at an air temp of 90 degrees. The MegaSquirt will provide a ground to the Intercooler Pump relay. 1. On/Off Control: Configure the Water Injection option (Pump Output using Inj G) to turn an external relay on to turn the Intercooler Pump on with the MegaSquirt below. 2. PWM Control: Configure the Water Injection option for PWM (PumpOutput using Inj G and Valve Output Inj Bank 1). Pump Output controls the external relay on and Valve Output supplies PWM ground for the Intercooler Pump. Setting the Valve Speed to fast will pump to operate properly I hope. I found this setup on the MSEXTRA site from "Prof315" controlling a Water injection pump not an Intercooler pump. System Diagram Here are some pictures of my design that changed over several months. From a performance standpoint I let it heat soak until the intake air was 100 degrees and turned on the pump and it cooled the intake air to 55 degrees in 10 seconds. It seems to work very well and has a quite operation.

NewZed, I appreciate the advice. I'll see if I can return the MSD unit. If not, knowing that I need to use the magnetic pickup install is VERY good to know. Thank you!

Looking to buy a spare set of Z31T CV Axles. Finding them hard to locate, given I do not live in America.

Have you already bought the MSD box? A GM HEI module will do the job too and be cheaper. The MSD boxes have been known to be difficult. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't. Sometimes they work but the tachometer stops working. You would want the MSD instructions for the "magnetic pickup". Two wires. That's what the Hitachi system uses. Actually, there are a few tests that you should do to make sure that the pickup coil is working inside the distributor. The pickup coil can go bad. The air gap can be wrong. If it's broken the MSD box won't work anyway.

If your SU carbs were not modified to allow for the larger displacement motor, you might have a fuel problem. Meaning the carb needs to provide a richer mixture to run properly. You can try smaller SU metering rods which would provide a richer fuel mixture. But doing this may still not provide a rich enough mixture as the SU bore size maybe too small.

I have a 1974 260z that has no spark. While I don't know where the problem is, I thought it would be most reliable to swap out the Hitachi Transistor Ignition (E12-05K, single distributor pick-up) for a MSD Street Fire Ignition (PN5520) box. I called MSD and they hung up immediately after I told them what I was trying to do. So, I'm assuming I need to disconnect the Hitachi ignition box and take the ceramic resistor out of the circuit and just wire it as if I replaced points with a solid state distributor pick (diagram attached). Does this sound correct?

Go to ZTherapy and buy this video: “JUST SU’S” British HS6 and Hitachi “SU” https://ztherapy.com/just-sus/ Watch the video until you name every part and understand how the SU works. You are experiencing a lean condition. Note that the throttle shaft on the SU tends to wear out allowing air to leak into the carb causing a lean condition. This air leak makes proper mixture adjustment impossible. Contact Ztherapy for the fix.

So I have a dumb question about R180 and R160 Subaru Differentials. I want to swap in an LSD diff but I am hazy on a few details. The first question is what year Subaru LSD diffs can I use for the swap? Posts and stuff I have read just say use a "K" differential. That brings up the second question. Can I swap the "buttons" from my Z Open diff to keep the stock bolt in axles or is it 100% nesisary to swap the clip style axles that they sell? Then the other questions are about possibly swapping mine for an R160 LSD diff but cant seem to get a clear answer about whether I need axles from a 510 to make it work? I read that the 240z axles are too lo g but that being said. Can they be machined to fit an R160 LSD Dfferential?? Any help would be awesome!!

well, there are a few things to figure out. Are you going to have a hydraulic clutch or just a normal cable clutch? The Tremec transmissions are really nice and I recommend those. Mike Forte at Forte's Parts Connection in Massachusetts is a real good guy and could set you up with a complete kit. You will need an engine flex plate, a flywheel, flywheel bolts, a clutch kit with throw-out bearing and sleeve, a transmission, A shifter, shift boot and shift knob, A transmission mount, and a U joint to attach to a shortened driveshaft. JTR (Jags that run), has all of this figured out, and you really just need to call them and get the skinny on what to do. Lastly, you will need to be able to hook up your speedometer to the trans, so ask about that as well. Click on this to start: JTR Stealth Conversions V8 Swaps Forte's Parts Connection: click below: Forte's Parts Connection

Z Trix bodywork was a custom fit all the way. We trimmed the rear fenders along the top shoulder, then scarfed the back side along the edges to get it to blend into the existing panel. Applied a seal coat, then bonded them on. The front fenders required quite a bit of work to get the hood gaps right. Lots of small problems to solve, but it came out well. I'll let the photos tell the rest.

Que Paso?

Bonjour je déterre le sujet presque 10 ans plus tard mais je me demandait, pourquoi le pas prendre le systeme attessa déjà existant sur les 300zx ( que au Japon) et prendre une 300zx avec le système hi-case et coupler les 2 ? je demande parce que j'ai le projet de faire ça actuellement .

Did more work in the ITBS . I’m mocking stuff for test runs to see what might work and what might not . Goal is a decent MAP signal up to 30% throttle and be able to run brake booster and PCV . I thought the PVC would work for the PCV - lol. Just all temporary fun. The base plate will be trimmed down to about 6” . Running 1/4” vacuum lines to this 1” log . It might be a bit big but I want it to do a lot Final iteration might be 2 vacuum logs . Maybe ready to fire in a week or so

With the SU's, I would go with SM needles, turn the mix screws about 2 turns down from the top, re-sync the carbs, and verify ignition. should have 18 degrees advance at idle with the vacuum disconnected and plugged. ~Joe

do you have an adjustable fuel regulator? If so richen it up a tad and take it out and see if it helps.

It will be interesting to see how the Helmholtz-style resonator changes things.

4 psi is enough but the fuel supply can meet pressure requirements and not meet volume requirements for an engine under a load.

Well as I change my induction I am also changing the exhaust . I am trying to quiet down the exhaust and also reducing drone I have around 2k . I had cheap resonators on there before and they were making more drone than preventing it I believe . I decided on a single resonator with a J tube targeting the frequency of the drone . It’s a 123 resonator I found on eBay . SS everything including packing . So now my exhaust is 6-2-1-2 ! I also got new mufflers for the rear . Added larger Borlas to replace my Magnaflows . Keeping my fingers crossed that I my choices produces the right results . I will still run two widebands - one for each bank . I was able to tuck this exhaust tighter with the single resonator . I also did all SS this time which is a first . MIG welded most of it and had the collector TIG welded to assure of no leaks . V banded for quick removal

Thanks for the reply! How could the wiring be screwed up for the fuel pump? As far as I understood it, it was simply two wires. When I first got the car running, I didn't have a fuel pump with high enough gallons per minute and the car would shut off under load. I upgraded the fuel pump, and it seems to do the job. It is a 4-7psi 30gpm pump. Do you think this is enough? Thanks!!

@calZ@manimal@jhm @Sam Henao So I finally got around to testing it this weekend and it's bad news. The numbers I'm getting in both thrust align and body align mode are not consistent at all, sometimes being over 2 degrees off measuring back to back with the same method. I tried probably about 5 times with no real consistency in the results. I don't think I messed up the method as I followed the instructional videos on the website exactly. Unfortunately, I'll have to take my car to an alignment shop and let them give it a proper alignment.

Would suggest checking fuel too, engine uses more fuel under load. Depending on how you converted the fuel setup over could be running the bowls dry under load. My problem with my SU conversion was my bad wiring with my electric fuel pump, on cruise would be fine, but on load it would intermittently pulse and not feed enough fuel and the bowls would run dry

Kudos for sticking through with it. I imagine you could get something like a megaspark or even an old spark controller, but then you would have to program in spark tables etc. Would love to see a picture of how it turned out when you get the chance

03-23-2025 TURBO PROJECT UPDATE: here are float bowls for the Mikuni HSR carb for my turbo setup. You can see the difference between an unmodified one and the modified one on the left. the overflow tube, look how much larger diameter it is, and the upper right-hand corner of the float bowl is modified, to increase flow for the accelerator pump, advertised as 50% more fuel flow! I had so many problems with my mikuni that I ordered a china copy off of Amazon for $113 shipped to learn about the carb......when it arrived it is EXACTLY the same carb! Some of the knockoffs are not similar, but this is a carbon copy. My mikuni I am convinced is a factory defect. I went ahead and changed all the jets in the china carb to mikuni jets, and put the modified float bowl on there. It is now "correct" and ready to go on!

well, the fun of driving the Z car will go WAY down if you keep an auto trans instead of a manual. I have had both. Manual all the way. At least for a Z car....muscle car would be different.