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hello im touching base about this to see if you have anymore info about silvermine motors kit a long with the adjustable control are set up for the r200. did you have luck?

I didn't post anything else anywhere about the build. It's difficult to quantify the effects of the stitch welds, partly because I hardly drove the car at all before tearing it apart. I can say now that the body shell is extremely solid, and does not feel like a 50 year old car, but that's subjective of course. The bottom line is that I installed more than three times the HP and torque the car was designed to handle, and I think it just makes sense to strengthen up the structure in any way you can. So I did the stitch welds in addition to beefier frame rails and an eight point cage. Of all of it, I'm pretty sure the cage would make by far the most difference. I drive it on the road without a helmet, but I do use a (snugged tightly) six point harness. I also have FIA roll bar padding everywhere that my head could possibly contact. Obviously the car is nowhere near as safe as any modern car, but I'm comfortable with the risk level. It's sort of like choosing to ride a motorcycle. You accept the risk, stop thinking about it, and enjoy what you're doing.

Awesome build! And highly informative. Do you have an IG or similar so we can see more? From your exp, were the stitch welds worth it? I want to do a 1JZ swap aiming for 450 hp. I’m adding F and R strut braces with the AE F/R subframe mounts. Frame rails are kind of a must, but drilling out all of those pinch welds gives me nightmares. Also, the engineer in me knows I need some sort of rear to front — top to bottom load path, but I’m also 6’3” and I want to safely drive the car on the road w/o a helmet. So l’m thinking a harness bar that bolts into the UPR/LWR seat belt locations would be better than nothing. pick of my build attached. Just painted this.

License plate light from Amazon arrived. mount and tie in and the electric for the back half of the car shell is done. fuel system still will have to be finished.

dedicated track car with this one seems like such a waste. I would hope you could get some plates on it and race it and drive it on the street. Turning out way too nice to relegate it to the track only. AWESOME! So glad to hear that.

This isn't just a track only build, just track focused, it will see plenty of street time.

I'm actually a big fan of over building the chassis and breaks. I will deep dive into various part as I pull the ZX apart. What I don't use will get parted out. So, if anyone is looking for parts from this donor let me know. I got the car cheap, I'll let most stuff go cheap. The engine, trans, and diff are my main targets.

dedicated track car with this one seems like such a waste. I would hope you could get some plates on it and race it and drive it on the street. Turning out way too nice to relegate it to the track only.

02-11-2026 ATLAS Z update: I got back half of the car all wired in except for a license plate light I am waiting for it to arrive. pretty cool LED unit I found on Amazon for 8 bucks. Got the headlights almost in. I always have a problem with this job. I had to break out the angle grinder and mod to get the driver's in....unsure so far far with the passenger one. Strange..... it REALLY fought me. I also got the 10AN line between my main filter and pump in, so it is ready for installation. PTFE lines take some work.

Thank you. a bit overkill but im happy with how it came out. I hadn't planned on making them but no reason i can't. I can get some material and when i get some down time i could make another one.

up here in the north east we get some great fall scenery for cruising but can get a bit chilly so the heater will be used for that aswell. but the defroster on a raining track day will be important. Thank you. love being creative during a build.

Yep, same here. I'm on my 8th build right now, and still have designs in mind for several future projects. Despite the advent of numerous social media platforms, we're still getting new members on a regular basis; and there are always nods to our forum from the social media pages for technical data, expertise, and assistance! I need to give a HUGE shout out to @SuperDan for keeping this forum going (even at his own personal expense); and all the dedicated Mods & Admins that put countless hours in over many years to make the forum what it is.

Happy Birthday HybridZ. I’m a little over one year into my V8 track build, this forum has been very helpful 💪

The seats may be worth keeping, if their condition/design/material are something you'd want in the 240. The diff may be an R200, which is often desirable (even if it's an open diff). You mentioned the rear disk brakes from the ZX....really not worth considering unless you're planning to upgrade the stock front discs on the 240 (all of which is largely unnecessary if the 240 is street-driven, IMHO.) The rest of the suspension/steering is not typically transferrable -- the S130 design is significantly different from the S30. Nice-lookin' 240, BTW! 👍👍 And welcome to HBZ...happy to have you!!

Well Happy Birthday to Hybrid Z !There is still plenty of time to keep playing! What a great forum it has been. Thank you for those who help keep it going! I'm close to the 20th century (2004) since i started on my Z. Still going strong

HybridZ is now 26! It's too old to remain on its parents' health insurance plan, and now needs a real-job, with benefits and maybe even a 401K plan. Anyone left here, who started working on their V8 Z project back in the 20th century, and is still wrenching on it? Anyone?

Seeing some progress on the Atlas Z

Thank you. I have some experience with Megasquirt and have a unit in a box. I may look into that.

I agree, keep the fuel injection for drivability but if it’s in your budget I would look at aftermarket options if the current stock system gives you too much trouble. If you just want a simple plug and drive solution then the Fast EFI might be the simplest option that keeps the car closest to stock. But if you have a bit more to spend then I would suggest going for an ECU that capable of sequential injectors instead of batch fire like the Haltech Elite 750. If the stock EFI starts to fail and you just want the car to run and drive good on a “budget” then I would suggest looking for some second hand triple Webber carburetors. It would just be a case of removing all the stock EFI components and intake and slapping the Webbers on (with ideally some slight dyno tuning to dial it in). The stock fuel injection system and ECM are nearing 50 years old now and most are slowly starting to fail. I believe mine is also on the way out as the idle is very rich in fuel (10,3 to 1) and no matter what I do it just won’t change, it looks like it’s stuck on the WOT fuel setting (yes I checked the TPS and everything else in the EFI bible). The car runs good enough for now (13,0 to 1 when driving) and once the frame rails have been repaired the car will pass inspection but the next step will be an new Haltech EFI system with properly some ITB’s from EFI Hardware.

I would keep the fuel injection for better driveability reasons. You may consider going to aftermarket EFI if the stock isn't up to snuff, but a good workshop manual should make it easier to troubleshoot. Going aftermarket can clean up the engine compartment though ...

Hi all, I'm new to HybridZ. I'm looking for information on the best parts to pull from a donor car I just picked up. My 240z and the 1982 280zx donor are in the pics. The donor car is complete and the odometer shows 71k. My plan was to pull the full drive train and swap it into my '72. I will save all the parts from the '72. I want to keep the car all Nissan. So, for the motor, is it worth keeping the fuel injection? I have also seen something about using custom brackets for the rear disk brakes. After I have picked what I want the rest will be parted out. Thanks for looking and good info. Bill

The heater hose block is really elegant!! I'd like to buy a master cylinder adapter plate (if you sell them).

Have to agree with you there. Living in a climate with winter weather, I'll never build another car without heater/defroster (even a dedicated track car). The car's looking great...I love the custom machining. 👍👍

glad to help, contact me anytime...turbo240z@yahoo.com

Got a few more things done last week. Made a driveshaft adapter to switch from the 1310 ujoint to a 1330 ujoint flange. now to order a custom driveshaft. The technotoys rear parts allow for some placement adjustment of the SN R200 so I made a spacer to slightly move it forward to align the axles better with the hubs. For some reason the diff itself is slightly crooked with their front mount so i'll be remaking that at some point but not a priority at the moment. havent ordered yet but got a good idea what seats im going to run so took some measurements and got the most of the cage tacked in. Harness bar height "should" be good but I wont fully weld anything until i have seats incase it needs to move up or down.