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I got a little bit of garage time today. Removed the old fuel cell and got the new one in. I still need to build a frame for it, but it can sit here for a while. Rear subframe bushings came in yesterday, I’ll try and get the rear end mounted next weekend.

thank you very much Kevin! i appreciate you taking the time to post the info with links. Im getting them now so i have them later for reassembly. awesome post man!

Have been busy with the end of year and splitting time with other project vehicles but called my machinist and found my parts have been ready for the past month. Still going through things but for the engine cover I opted to plug the supply and return holes with NPTF type flush plugs. I've seen the block plugged as well but I figured this allows maximum flexibility on internal/external oil supply and feed without significant motor disassembly. This next month I will need to figure out specifically which mil spec bulkhead connectors I will need as I welded and shaved the firewall harness holes before dropping to car off to the restoration shop. For the turbo build I'm thinking to convert the ignition to crank fire and leave some extra pins for future expansion.

These seats would color coordinate real nice. Any of you have any experience with this company? Miami Blue Universal Adjustable Black Luxury Racing SR3 Style Alcantar– Bull Boost Performance

12-20-2025. Today officially started the mud and blocking part of this build. I had to finish removing some of the stubborn old paint and filler and yep.....more hidden damage, well repairs, and they did a good job, so that is good. Then I attacked the rear hatch jamb. Using a wire wheel attachment, I was able to go around both "levels" of the jamb and get it prepped for paint when I get there. I finished going over the entire body with a DA sander and 80 grit to smooth out the rough metal from having to go heavy duty getting it off. I took some pics f it all cleaned off then cracked open the filler and started laying it on the roof and sail panels. It's a learning curve. So, some real progress was made again today. Spent a lot of time getting the body ready for blocking....except I didn't pull the door handles yet, I guess next time. PICS

Thank you for confirming this. I should of course have checked when the group was created 😅 I just saw 2k members, but there was still something suspicious about the price of the parts I was looking at Regards

I can tell just by the page name that it is a big old scam, but I'll go check anyway. Went and checked: 1. The page was made in October. Scam 2. Patrick Reynolds just made his account Nov 27 and posted a bunch of pictures that same day. That's also sign of a scam. 3. Eddy Watson, the other admin, posted a bunch of brand new photos from different time periods all on the same day in the middle of October. Third sign of a scam. 4. Probably the biggest and most glaring clue other than the page age is that every single parts post that Patrick Reynolds makes has a different background. Different tables, different floors, different trees if it's outside. That's because they're all stolen pictures.

Your car is already going to be pretty bold with the picture frame hood and the fully polished engine bay, so maybe it would be good to lean into that and go bold everywhere with the two tone. It might be on theme.

I like the first picture where the hood and flares/skirts are black and the rest of the car is a color. I really dislike the top/bottom two tone in the other pictures. To me, it looks like those cars where guys put muscle car-style wheels, a cowl induction hood, and metal flake paint on a 240Z and try to make it look like a Camaro. That's a paint job for a classic pickup imo. I don't think it fits the car at all. That said, it's just my opinion. We all have different tastes. It's your car and you're the one that's going to see it every day. If you like the look and it makes you happy, then that's what matters.

Good day Have anyone here bought anything from Patrick Reynolds? From a Facebook page called "Datsun spare parts for sale and swap? Regards

This You Tube Video shoes the actual conversion of this Aluminum Panel 240z in a home garage.

This You Tube Video goes over the conversion of a regular 240z to one with mostly all Aluminum Exterior Panels. The work seems to done at a home garage located in California. The owner never said level or how much his experience with aluminum panels. However, most of the panels are bolted on to the original sheet metal structure. The aluminum roof, both rocker panels and rear quarter panels were probably attached using a special aluminum to sheet metal epoxy. I worked with Japanese after market body panels and found their fitment was very good. Most of the corrosion damage found on the 240zs was actually caused by rust starting on the exterior panels. Then it spread into internal structural parts. So using these Aluminum Panels ,new Seam Sealers and Rust Preventive Methods will make these 240s last a long time.

this has been on my mind.....the blue color is the same.......

?????????

Ok, I posted about this earlier.....but now I have put together the pics that I have been using for inspiration on painting my 260Z the last is a drawing where everything X'd out is black with the highlighted being blue from the top......the sides being blue and the flares either black or blue. I am asking for any and all opinions of idea to think about. there the car is red int he pics, on mine it will be light metallic blue like me engine compartment. Thanks

I have struggle to find a cap for my 1972 240z and I refuse to spend $200+ for a new one. I did find this one on Amazon and it appears to fit well -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GZP12SW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title. My fuel door closes fine and the bayonet mount appears secure. For about $12.00 for two caps it seems like a good value. Now, I am restoring the car and I have yet to run the car with the new cap so standby for an update.

12-16-2025. Picked up some more items from the powdercoaters....headlight buckets, inspection doors, dash plate and gutter trim....all gloss black

Gasket link. The site kept pasting an old file. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,engine,intake+&+exhaust+manifold+gasket+set,10220

RTZ seems to do good work. I'd trust the dimensions that guy above used, which he got from the RTz post that he linked. Or, the gaskets are probably correct. If you have one around.

12-16-2025. Drum Sander. I have been advised to use a drum sander, as it is easier on the sheet metal than a flap disc on an angle grinder. Well, yes it is! However, even at 40 grit, I finished the roof, started on a rocker and a few other spots and wore that drum half way out! Pics follow, you can see the difference comparing both methods side to side. I also took a couple pics to show how it will look ran over with a DA on 80 grit to prep it for filler. DUSTY! closer to starting the blocking.

Sorry for posting on 5 year old thread... but I am looking to 3d print this for testing. I see the last response stating the injector spacing is wrong. has anyone gone through this to test at all?

Got it off Amazon: https://amzn.to/4aS32Br And picked up a male pigtail off eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/134129914749 I actually replaced the wiper arms too. I used 93 miata arms which bolt up to the stock datsun wipers mechanism. Passenger arm is a little long so I may shorten it. For wiring, I followed this guide: https://www.electronixandmore.com/resources/automobiles/datsun/index.html Note this is very specific to the later wiring for 1978(maybe 1977 too) and would not be applicable to earlier years.

Best looking convertible I've seen https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-345/

Last week my order from Apex Engineered came in so now I can start stripping down the car and prepping her for the body shop. Money is a bit tight right now so I’ll install all my suspension parts first and probably send the car of to the shop in February. In the meantime I decided to strip out the interior and see what’s hidden underneath. It doesn’t look that bad but for a car that has been quote on quote “restored” only 10 years ago they sure did a shitty job. Lots of surface corrosion sports throughout the interior, lots of missing bolts, fasteners and rubber plugs and unpainted parts from shotty repair work. I cleaned up the surface rust and sprayed a generous amount of rust converter on everything. I will order some more rust converter, primer and color matched paint soon to clean up and protect the inside parts. I’ll also look at some spray wax to protect the hidden parts and crevasses of the chassis. A guy on YouTube I follow (M539 Restorations) uses one from Liqui Molly I believe which seems pretty good so I will give that one a try. It's not all bad news though. It looks like that in all these years the wiring harness stayed unmolested by all the previous owners. I also found out that the car has 4 pretty big and new looking JBL speakers! They didn’t all work when I tested the radio but I believe that might be the head unit itself. I will probably replace it with a Bluetooth capable retro looking one in the future. I also found a full and intact box of original Nissan glass 10amp fuses in the trunk!

Got a little bit of work done, ran brake lines to the rear, waiting on a fitting for the front to plumb up my line lock and should be done. Also fuel cell, gauge and black box surge kit/pump came in.