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I'm actually a big fan of over building the chassis and breaks. I will deep dive into various part as I pull the ZX apart. What I don't use will get parted out. So, if anyone is looking for parts from this donor let me know. I got the car cheap, I'll let most stuff go cheap. The engine, trans, and diff are my main targets.

dedicated track car with this one seems like such a waste. I would hope you could get some plates on it and race it and drive it on the street. Turning out way too nice to relegate it to the track only.

02-11-2026 ATLAS Z update: I got back half of the car all wired in except for a license plate light I am waiting for it to arrive. pretty cool LED unit I found on Amazon for 8 bucks. Got the headlights almost in. I always have a problem with this job. I had to break out the angle grinder and mod to get the driver's in....unsure so far far with the passenger one. Strange..... it REALLY fought me. I also got the 10AN line between my main filter and pump in, so it is ready for installation. PTFE lines take some work.

Thank you. a bit overkill but im happy with how it came out. I hadn't planned on making them but no reason i can't. I can get some material and when i get some down time i could make another one.

up here in the north east we get some great fall scenery for cruising but can get a bit chilly so the heater will be used for that aswell. but the defroster on a raining track day will be important. Thank you. love being creative during a build.

Yep, same here. I'm on my 8th build right now, and still have designs in mind for several future projects. Despite the advent of numerous social media platforms, we're still getting new members on a regular basis; and there are always nods to our forum from the social media pages for technical data, expertise, and assistance! I need to give a HUGE shout out to @SuperDan for keeping this forum going (even at his own personal expense); and all the dedicated Mods & Admins that put countless hours in over many years to make the forum what it is.

Happy Birthday HybridZ. I’m a little over one year into my V8 track build, this forum has been very helpful 💪

The seats may be worth keeping, if their condition/design/material are something you'd want in the 240. The diff may be an R200, which is often desirable (even if it's an open diff). You mentioned the rear disk brakes from the ZX....really not worth considering unless you're planning to upgrade the stock front discs on the 240 (all of which is largely unnecessary if the 240 is street-driven, IMHO.) The rest of the suspension/steering is not typically transferrable -- the S130 design is significantly different from the S30. Nice-lookin' 240, BTW! 👍👍 And welcome to HBZ...happy to have you!!

Well Happy Birthday to Hybrid Z !There is still plenty of time to keep playing! What a great forum it has been. Thank you for those who help keep it going! I'm close to the 20th century (2004) since i started on my Z. Still going strong

HybridZ is now 26! It's too old to remain on its parents' health insurance plan, and now needs a real-job, with benefits and maybe even a 401K plan. Anyone left here, who started working on their V8 Z project back in the 20th century, and is still wrenching on it? Anyone?

Seeing some progress on the Atlas Z

Thank you. I have some experience with Megasquirt and have a unit in a box. I may look into that.

I agree, keep the fuel injection for drivability but if it’s in your budget I would look at aftermarket options if the current stock system gives you too much trouble. If you just want a simple plug and drive solution then the Fast EFI might be the simplest option that keeps the car closest to stock. But if you have a bit more to spend then I would suggest going for an ECU that capable of sequential injectors instead of batch fire like the Haltech Elite 750. If the stock EFI starts to fail and you just want the car to run and drive good on a “budget” then I would suggest looking for some second hand triple Webber carburetors. It would just be a case of removing all the stock EFI components and intake and slapping the Webbers on (with ideally some slight dyno tuning to dial it in). The stock fuel injection system and ECM are nearing 50 years old now and most are slowly starting to fail. I believe mine is also on the way out as the idle is very rich in fuel (10,3 to 1) and no matter what I do it just won’t change, it looks like it’s stuck on the WOT fuel setting (yes I checked the TPS and everything else in the EFI bible). The car runs good enough for now (13,0 to 1 when driving) and once the frame rails have been repaired the car will pass inspection but the next step will be an new Haltech EFI system with properly some ITB’s from EFI Hardware.

I would keep the fuel injection for better driveability reasons. You may consider going to aftermarket EFI if the stock isn't up to snuff, but a good workshop manual should make it easier to troubleshoot. Going aftermarket can clean up the engine compartment though ...

Hi all, I'm new to HybridZ. I'm looking for information on the best parts to pull from a donor car I just picked up. My 240z and the 1982 280zx donor are in the pics. The donor car is complete and the odometer shows 71k. My plan was to pull the full drive train and swap it into my '72. I will save all the parts from the '72. I want to keep the car all Nissan. So, for the motor, is it worth keeping the fuel injection? I have also seen something about using custom brackets for the rear disk brakes. After I have picked what I want the rest will be parted out. Thanks for looking and good info. Bill

The heater hose block is really elegant!! I'd like to buy a master cylinder adapter plate (if you sell them).

Have to agree with you there. Living in a climate with winter weather, I'll never build another car without heater/defroster (even a dedicated track car). The car's looking great...I love the custom machining. 👍👍

glad to help, contact me anytime...turbo240z@yahoo.com

Got a few more things done last week. Made a driveshaft adapter to switch from the 1310 ujoint to a 1330 ujoint flange. now to order a custom driveshaft. The technotoys rear parts allow for some placement adjustment of the SN R200 so I made a spacer to slightly move it forward to align the axles better with the hubs. For some reason the diff itself is slightly crooked with their front mount so i'll be remaking that at some point but not a priority at the moment. havent ordered yet but got a good idea what seats im going to run so took some measurements and got the most of the cage tacked in. Harness bar height "should" be good but I wont fully weld anything until i have seats incase it needs to move up or down.

02-08-2026 UPDATE. Today I completed further work on the fuel system. It is on a sheet of metal that will be hung from the ceiling down on all thread to where the pumps are horizontal facing the floor and a tad bit lower that the fuel cell outlet so gravity flow will be good. I then took all of my interior panels I have out except he center console, and cleaned them up and painted them with SEM interior paint....Landau Black....which was referred to me years ago and really is a perfect shade and everything for these old Z cars. After they had dried, I quickly installed them a little bit, not fully, but enough for them to be in place, and then finished leveling up my fuel cell and bolted it all down. I am having some problems with the pilot bearing for the trans.....it appears I will need a sleeve or perhaps a bearing with a larger O.D. as the ATLAS, never came with a manual trans, and the well for the pilot bearing is roughly twice that of the bearing I have here that I strangely was told to use. So, I am working that problem out. I also went and installed the door handles and door locks, a bit more work in the doors, and they will be ready to be sealed up. Also got the lock mechanism into the hatch lid, but none of the rest of it. I painted the seat brackets on the floor in anticipation of a rather soon to come re-entry of the seats, which are fully reupholstered. PICS:

I started stripping the car today so I can put it on my rotisserie for few unibody sheet metal repairs... mostly the floor and the rear portion of the frame rails. I removed the heater core box, the engine and transmission, the front struts and the rear axles. I still need to remove the rear differential and the gas tank. I have a 2006 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, and one day I was looking at the brake vents and thought they would be good for the 240Z. And so they are! I installed these before I went to Road Atlanta in 2016 (I think)... this car has been off of the road for so dang long now! Anyway, they worked very nicely to cool my brakes. I made a custom fiberglass piece to adapt from the Xenon front spoiler to the round inlet of the Z06 vent, and used one screw and washer to secure the back of the vent to the inner wheel house sheet metal. The front brake rotors are Z31 vented units. I still have the unmodified backing plates on them, which is a mistake. It prevents air from getting to the back side of the rotors. Something else to address added to my list! Rear rotors are Z31 units. Calipers are 240SX. Axles are Z31 (with custom shafts). I bought parts from Ross back in the day (Modern Motorsports) for the brake and axle conversions. I bought the R200 differential from an eBay seller probably about 20 years ago. It was a NOS 200SX unit with a 4.11 ring and pinion. I removed the factory carrier and replaced it with a Nismo clutch type limited slip. I bought a high capacity finned differential rear cover and a billet transverse link from Protunerz.com during the recent Black Friday sale. So, I will be installing those when I put the differential back in the car. For now though, everything has to come off the car so I can make it light enough to put on the rotisserie for the floor repairs.

Second Owner of the SEMA SHOW Toyota A86 Body The First Owner of the SEMA SHOW Chinese Made Copy of the Toyota A86 Body decided to sell the body. The real question is why? The next Owner bought it with the idea of attempting to assemble the body and create a drivable car. As the body has No VIN Number and No Manufacturer ID Number, they knew that car registration in most states would not be possible. They intended to use this body as a Race Car as no registration would be necessary. As the video demonstrate that most mounting holes that not align with OEM parts. Also, they discovered a lack of sufficient welds on the body panels. Mounting brackets were missing or mislocated. So even if it was going to used as a Race Car, major welding and reinforcement of the vehicle would be necessary. So far, there has no one that I know who purchased a 240Z body from this same manufacturer. So far, we could not get a firsr hand through inspection of the Zbody and find if that body is manufactured better or not.

Here is the plate I made to assist with routing the dry sump hoses across the front of the engine: Here is the -16 AN hose that runs from the outlet of the tank to the inlet of the pump. It has a heat shield sleeve over it to protect it from getting overly hot from its proximity to the header. I put the intake manifold and carbs in place so I can determine how to route the coolant hoses from above the #4 and #6 exhaust ports to the thermostat housing.

I started tearing down the motor today. I’ll probably work on it some more tomorrow, would like to be painting it this month. Also starting to design and fab the fuel cell supports. Going with some 1” square tubing. Got this table to attach my portable band saw, works great

02-06-2026. ATLAS Z update: my FabBot 4 inch back relocated shifter for my AR5 came in today. Very nice billet construction. Doesn't appear to need a gasket and it came with nice socket head bolts. Also got my RAM clutch pedal adjuster. This allows you to adjust where your clutch pedal takes up or if it takes up too high, this will allow you to adjust it so it takes up where you want it to. This is for hydraulic throw out bearing setups that are in the bellhousing. PICS: