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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/27/23 in all areas

  1. I have done a complete chassis resto. Took me 3 years… oooof. Let us know if you have any questions. #1 take away: it is more expensive, more time consuming, and more tedious than one would possibly imagine, especially if you are stiffening the chassis and replacing rust along the way. absolutely, positively 100% worth the time and effort to find a body you can build from that does not require a full bare-metal resto. You will never get your time and money back, haha. Maybe for a rare European, but not a Z. Also, as popular as the rotisserie is, it can be done without. You wire-wheel the underside on your back wearing proper PPE, and use a brush to apply the epoxy sealer.
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  2. Sorry for chiming in late, but here's another option for your consideration.... Rather than lifting the rear with the taller strut mounts in the rear, lower the front by replacing the stock strut mounts with camber plates. Might have to do a little fabrication to get the stock spring hats interfacing correctly with the camber plates. You wont' be able to take advantage of additional negative camber because your stock spring hats will hit the strut tower, but they should definitely lower the front end a decent amount (1 - 1.5"). Disregard all the above if you're happy with your current setup!
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  3. Holy Necroposting Spooner Batman! Depending on your routing of the hoses on the heater circuit, you could effectively block a very nicely designed thermal siphon effect not running them the way I suggest. After shutdown, the routing I suggested has the hot turbo with cool water available at the pump inlet. The turbo heats that water hotter than engine heat, and it rises to the thermostat housing where it can discharge through the open thermostat into the radiator hose. Going heater hose to heater hose will give you no place for the heated water to RISE to without restriction, and it will also have to fight hydrostatic head of the water in the block to return. Thermal siphons are very delicate balances, and don't tolerate much before they stop. AFTER the shutdown is the most critical cooldown time, I'd err on the side of the system that gave me automatic circulation when the engine is OFF. That Nissan used this same routing is no coincidence. Their engineers do sometimes know what they are doing!
    1 point
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