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Hey Guys. I have a LS1 from a 2002 SS Camero, but the shop that sold me the motor/tranny didn’t sell me the intake. I’ve been looking for a decent used one and the prices are crazy. I plan on running the motor stock as a daily driver. I’m in GA. Finally got the engine in with CXracing mounts. Any help or direction for an intake mani is appreciated… street machines offers $699 for a complete ls6 but it still has no TB. Seems steep but eBay seems no better and FB guys have been flaky or really far away.

That is pretty darn amazing!

Thanks awd, madkaw. 1st start went great last week. She fired up instantly and ran it @ 1500-2000prm for about 20 minutes to break in the cam. Since then, made a few changes to the VE, AE, WUE settings and also ditched the unstable manual BC & enabled the EBC. Ran some data logs and it stays close to the AFR table I've set up, boosting to 15psi. Still a bunch of tuning to do but so far, it seems ok and pulls pretty dang hard without any detonation that I can hear. True madkaw, it was nerve racking. I did need to make a bunch of changes to the GR tune before 1st start or, it really had no chance at starting. GR had all my motor specs and purchased all the MS components through them, but it almost seems like they left most, if not all of the settings they had for their test motor as the current tune. No big deal since I figured it all out before I turned the key but, worth mentioning if someone else goes down this road. Their assembled unit and wiring harness are very nice which made the install pretty painless. I also converted from hydro lifters to solid during the MS install and need to do a quick write-up on that at some point. After installing the time-serts and solids, cranked it a bunch without the rockers and the lifter oil ports on the P90A head were moving a lot of oil past the smaller headed solid lifters. Found some copper metric washers to use which sealed the small oil ports almost completely. With the amount of oil getting past the lifters at cranking speed, I wasn't comfortable leaving it like that since I'm sure there would be a lot more blowby at higher RPM's, possibly starving the crank bearings, cam & bearings, etc. Also picked up some .160 lash pads which put the wipe pattern perfect with the Delta regrind. A little to the lifter side which creates a little more lift, which is good. North-eastern NJ, Morris county madkaw. Thanks for the replies guys. Now I need to find a Dyno and a tuner in NJ that knows MS because I'm sure I'm leaving a lot on the table since this is the 1st time I'm ever tuning, especially in the ignition table dept. If anyone knows of someone they trust in my area, please let me know.

What wheels are you wanting to run? If they're low offset with lots of dish that gravel rally front brake kit won't work, probably the same with the rear. They mention running 25mm spacers to gain clearance for the calipers and using a +35 wheel. Based on the wheels listed on their website that would probably be a 15x6.5 et35. If you are trying to run something like a 15x9 it would need around a +15 offset and +25mm or greater spacers to potentially clear. I have the 300zx calipers on odyssey rotors and a VW rear caliper with the 290mm 84/5 300zx NA rear rotor with 16x7 et0 Konig Rewinds. There's no chance the 15" konigs would clear front or rear, maybe up front with some big spacers. The front gravel rally brake kit their offering uses rotors with 2mm less offset which would bring the caliper even closer to hitting. Not to mention the caliper was designed for 30mm wide rotors and the 350z rotors are 24mm wide. That's getting kinda iffy with potentially pushing your pistons out. It probably isn't an issue with rally cars because they're constantly being serviced. It might be OK if you had some 1/8" shims cut from AR500 steel and put them behind the pads, but I've never had to do anything like that. I can try to mock up the 300zx caliper & rotor on your front suspension. I have a model of the caliper and my 16" wheel and a different 15" wheel. I would need you to 1. Assemble your front hub/strut 2. Measure the distance from the hub face where the rotor rests to where the brake mounts(using calipers) 3. Take a picture of the hub/strut from a distance, zoomed in, with the hub the center of the image, the camera parallel to the hub face, and at least a 12" ruler clamped to the hub Ditto for the rear if you do the steps above. I don't have a 240sx caliper model, but if my vw caliper fit with a 240sx rotor, then the SX caliper would work.

Assuming you are maintaining your OEM 4X113.3 when stud pattern, and 0 offset: Koenig Rewinds are the cheapest of the lightweight wheels. My 15X7’s were only $106/wheel from Summit, and weighed 14lbs each. On the expensive end, I also have Ray’s Volk TE37’s in 15X7’s and 11lb. Aluminum wheel spacers are not the end of the world they are less than 6” in dia, so the rotational inertia is far less than what your wheel is contributing. On a 15” wheel, most of the mass is way out at (for example) 13” from the axis of rotation. Rotational inertia is proportional to the weight, but also how far the weight is from the center. Greg Ira used Aluminum wheel spacers, and he is a three-time SCCA national champion. When you are trying to maximize allowable track (rule book), using OEM struts, limited camber adjustment, and a 0-offset wheel, sometimes it’s the only way.