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Small update: Completed reverse engineering of the Cortex spindle, nice design and less tall than I anticipated. Unsure how I feel about the ~1.5-2" drop design but it will have to do for now until I can get everything articulating nice. Next step is designing a 17" wheel as it seems like all the models I'm getting off GrabCAD are not to spec. For the inboard UCA pickups, I'm at the point where I'm just trying to choose an angle for the UCA, the consensus is ~7° though I've seen some guys on the Locost forums go up to 10-15°. From my conversation with Maier, I remember him mentioning anywhere in the 15° range is too high for these kinds of cars. Anyway, back to the books for me.

For the track attack upper control arm plate the carriage bolts are a must because of their plate design, it completely covers the bolts, so no way to tighten. But some of the others are iffy. The two I broke, didn’t need to be carriage bolts, but it would have tight if they weren’t, and the tension rod bracket was probably needed for clearance to the bushing. Their brackets could have been designed to use regular bolts if they made them a little bigger, but that’s what they went with. Over all I’m pretty happy with it and how’s it’s coming together, but there are still some improvements they could make for easier installation.

Got the sensor figured out. It is idling around 130-140 F. Should be OK. I have to post a video. Sorry but I think this thing sounds bad ass. I have an insert in the exhaust so I dont need earplugs.

Update: after speaking to Cortex and getting some spindle dimensions from them for CAD mockup, looks like I’ll be using their Radial X spindles. Very exciting stuff, I am a bit weary about using aluminum spindles but the car is a track car and last weighed at ~600# over each front wheel so I think I’ll be alright. Thanks! Excited to share my progress with you guys. I’d eventually like to make my work/design open source and see what more talented suspension engineers can do with it. If I didn’t just buy one of these yesterday I’d offer to trade you a complete kit for one of them KN20 heads XD. A bummer indeed, just another bump in the road! Funny you mention Stock Car blade-swaybars. It’s basically all I’ve been looking at for switching over to that design. Plus the parts are pretty cheap & standardized. Thanks everyone.

At long last I finally got my engine bay fuel lines replumbed. Working around the brake lines in a confined space was an adventure, but things look so much cleaner now. It's to the point I need to pull and paint my valve cover, and start dressing things up. It's been interesting watching my fuel temps. I'm definitely going to spend some time seeing how that affects my tune. I have a bit more dialing in to do on pump gas, then I'll swap to E85 and start cranking up the timing. I also got fed up with seeing my voltage go nuts once my alternator was heat soaked, so I decided to finally upgrade from the 280zx 60a to a Powermaster 7294 100a alternator. I went the route of cutting 1.5" off the front of the factory mount, drilling it most of the way for a 10mm bolt, and tapping the backside so I don't have to use a nut. I was already using a turnbuckle for the adjustment, so I'm running the stock belt. I still see a bit of a voltage drop below 800rpm, so I found a 2.125" pulley I'll swap on when it's not 100* out.