Brad-ManQ45

I doubt you'd gain much in the way of horsepower. Driveability and gas milage would improve. You would need the CAS wheel inside the 300ZX distributor, six resistors, and swap a couple of injector leads. Your knock senszor will no longer work.

Dont know about price, but JTR will work on any but LS1/6 type engine blocks. How many miles on engine/tranny?

And there are guys that go that fast or faster on motorcycles....

I have an R180 you can have free, but shipping will cost you... I have to take it off my Z and put on an R200... Anything to help a fellow Z'r.

This is actually a ball point pen that my wife brought home about 1 week after I bought the '75 Z - running strong but needs floorpans/paint. I immediately said "that's the color!" and took over the pen - for which I paid with a new Parker! I agree that it has a bit of green and in fact, HOK has a color called Neon Chartreuse, that aside from being too transparent is fairly close. I have always said I was looking for a bright yellow with a tinge of green to it...

RacerX: Did you look at the picture link for the yellow color I'm trying for?

Here is one pic of the Yellow that I am looking for on a pen. The paper is copier paper and looks whiter, so you can imagine what the pen looks like. I will try to get a pic around noon in full sun to see what that will do for the picture.... http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&pos=-419

Not a problem for me - I pop in & out of a lot of forums and someone said "old tech" and someone else said cracking. I was specific about the 2M rubberized undercoating too. As I said, I haven't decided yet. Have you checked out the Autobody Store and its BBS? http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index

Man, I'm not even close - just got the rotisserie built,a nd am sanding/ospho-ing/painting it. (I do have a couple of additions to weld/clean/paint that will allow me to use a couple of bottle jacks to jack the car up once mounted on the rotisserie that I have to finish, but these are extra pieces that aren't absolutely necessary) I will then have to figure out how to mount the car to the rotisserie, remove the interior and lights/front fenders (seats, engine, tranny and gas tank out already) in order to weld in floor pans/subchassis connectors. Will follow your advise on Zero Rust for underbody and interior. Some have ridiculed me at the thought of using the 3M undercoating, saying it will eventually crack, and to use bedliner type on the underside - I am undecided on that part. Only after all this and interior is done will I start on the outside - and then I'll have the rear Qtr to put on and driprails to remove. Fortunately the body is straight - not even many small dents! (of course, when I strip down to metal it may be a different story!!!) I have seen the Lemon Drop DuPont Hot Color and liked it... The Mazda (at least on the website) looks too dark - I want one that is almost flourescent. I swear I saw a Z on SpeedVision or Spike last year that looked great - I think it used to be Mr. K's car, and the lady that was his secretary now has it (I think). It was a bright yellow with just a tinge of green to it. I need to charge my digital camera and take a picture of a pen that has a color that is close...

Man, I'm no even close - just got the rotisserie built,a nd am sanding/ospho-ing/painting it. (I do have a couple of additions to weld/clean/paint that will allow me to use a couple of bottle jacks to jack the car up once mounted on the rotisserie that I have to finish, but these are extra pieces that aren't absolutely necessary) I will then have to figure out how to mount the car to the rotisserie, remove the interior and lights/front fenders (seats, engine, tranny and gas tank out already) in order to weld in floor pans/subchassis connectors. Will follow your advise on Zero Rust for underbody and interior. Some have ridiculed me at the thought of using the 3M undercoating, saying it will eventually crack, and to use bedliner type on the underside - I am undecided on that part. Only after all this and interior is done will I start on the outside - and then I'll have the rear Qtr to put on and driprails to remove. Fortunately the body is straight - not even many small dents! (of course, when I strip down to metal it may be a different story!!!) I have seen the Lemon Drop DuPont Hot Color and liked it... The Mazda (at least on the website) looks too dark - I want one that is almost flourescent. I swear I saw a Z on SpeedVision or Spike last year that looked great - I think it used to be Mr. K's car, and the lady that was his secretary now has it (I think). It was a bright yellow with just a tinge of green to it. I need to charge my digital camera and take a picture of a pen that has a color that is close...

You must be confused - you would only need a bonnet for a blow-thru carb setup. I am of course assuming that you are not talking about the 70's LT-1 engine.... What I am guessing you are talking about is piping from either the turbo or intercooler to the throttle body. Unfortunately, I have no clue as to where to obtain this, but I need to know also - although it may not be an LT1 that I will be using....

Scrape/wire brush all the rust off, coat with Picklex or Ospho, scuff this and paint with Zero Rust. Then do the bedliner. You can always mask off the drivetrain parts if you spray...

Look here: http://www.hammondsplains.com/zclub/techtips/turbo/turbomaps/index.htm About 1.68 times the displacement....1.68 times the airflow from 0 boost. Figure about 4.7 litres...thats the volume of air the displacement of the engine and 10 lbs. of boost will produce. Other factors like intercooling have an effect also....

Depends on efficiency of the intercooler and its' size, and how well you can control fuel and ignition.

Z Barn IS NOT MSA - Z Barn is outside Knoxville, TN.

I didn't build the site, I discovered it a couple months ago and love to share it. That is not the turbonetics site, but it does have maps, which the Turbonetics site no longer has...

his may help - compressor maps for stock and T3/T4's sized for a 2.8 and showing 10, 15 and 20 lb. lines... http://www.hammondsplains.com/zclub/techtips/turbo/turbomaps/index.htm

According to BFG, and my own first VB program from '91, 225/60/14 is the same diameter as the stock 205/60/15's. What is the width of your wheels? If you measure rim to rim subtract 1"... I personally would only go 225's on 7 or 8" rims for crisper handling reasons, but 6's will work.

Ditto

I have amn '83ZXT and it came stock with 205/60/15 tires. I went to 205/55/16's in front and 225/59/16's in rear w/GSC's - which didn't last very long but ride was fine. I then put on F1 Steels, and the ride got a bit worse. I would not put 13's on - I'd go with 14's if you are concerned with ride - 7" rims and 215/60/14 tires ride pretty well on my '75...

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=9093&highlight=neapco The key word is Neapco...

Nathan - I'm just repeating info from Hugh MacInnes "Turbochargers" on spool up. What you are not taking into consideration is the very large diameter of the single turbo's turbine and associated weight further from the shaft. His example stated that in a typical scenario that the moment of inertia for the large turbo was 2.5 times greater than for the small turbo. By my math, that means that there is a 20% hit on how quickly the single turbo will spool given double the exhaust volume...but I'm no math expert. I will quote him now: "Where turbocharger acceleration is important, I recommend you use two small units instead of one large one." This was my reason for making the statement about roadracing and autocross. Andrew did not mention what his application was. In my case, it will be a TT SBC - no I won't be racing it, but on a V engine there are less hassles with exhaust leaks with twin systems - and I'm not sure I'd have enough room for a single big one even if I move the battery. I have no desire to TT my 280ZXT, just get a bigger compressor section for the T3/T4 I've already got...even with only S3 trim and clipped turbine IT IS FAST. You should note that the Skylines are inline sixes and have RULED with twin turbos - banned from rally competitions even. Racers that go for top speed and drags generally go one big one on small engines because the spool characteristics are not an issue.

The engine computer doesn't have anything to do wih the dash and climate...separate harnesses for each.

Total output would not be the deciding factor. Spoolup behavior and shifting under acceleration are the factors you would make the decision on. What size engine and amount of boost? If you can get the same efficiency w/one turbo as you can with 2, then whaht is the car used for? If drag racing, the single would probably be better, because during shifting the bigger will not lose as much speed (even in the short time of a shift). For autocross/roadrace, two smaller turbos would spin up faster for better response when starting to accelerate. Please note the condition that I assumed - the same effeciency and airflow from each setup. You would probably have better midrange on the twin and better top end on the single.

HAs high and low beams - Low are HID the high beam uses an H1 (efficient) halogen bulb. They come with a separate harness "supplied as the existing vehicle wiring is not designed to support the high start-up current required for an HID ballast", which I would imagine has relays in it, but don't quote me... Personally, I have always been fond of Cibie headlights, having replaced all sealed beam units on my cars with them (every size represented in the fleet over the years). I'm not sure that the $300 difference in cost is worth it just for low beams. I could have aux lights in my air dam that would more than make up the diff for <=$150....