Brad-ManQ45

Nice & tidy Sean!

I have that site on my favorites list, but haven't been there for a good while - excellent! They were suppsedly working on SBC turbo kit when I added it, but it never happened and others did it. Good catch fl327!

Sounds like something that could be programmed into the new UMS due out this summer, but not anything off the shelf right now....

Zero Rust too...RacerX and the AutoBodyStore site swear by it...

Are you referring to the MSR type H4's? I too run Cibies on my 83ZXT - and don't feel a need to replace them. However, I will need to get some lights for the '75 V* project eventually and would like to hear about comparison to Cibies...

C25 will make for less penetration than straight CO2 - which to me means cooler. Don't take my word for ir - go to Hobart's BBB: http://www.hobartwelders.com/techtips.html#mig

AFAIC, flux core and auto sheet metal don't mix - too hot. You really need C25 and .23 or .24 solid core wire.

The delrin/aluminum cup cobined with stock rear bushing is the way I am going. Eventually I'll have to replace the front setup again because it will wear. Some have well over 30K on them so no issue for me... The next best setuo would be poly front and stock rear.

I'm sure it could be made to work, but why bother? SDS would be cheaper and lots of support. MSnS even cheaper and quite a few people running it. 300ZX system about as cheap as MSnS and no programming issues. Any of these alternatives will give better driveability over stock ECU, and eliminate dreaded lean condition starting @ ~5k rpm. With the VPC you're stuck with the lean condition, and poor driveability, plus the $ necessary to pay someone to program the thing. In the end you've got something unique, that no-one else would probably want - and for good reason. JMHO...

I doubt you'd gain much in the way of horsepower. Driveability and gas milage would improve. You would need the CAS wheel inside the 300ZX distributor, six resistors, and swap a couple of injector leads. Your knock senszor will no longer work.

Dont know about price, but JTR will work on any but LS1/6 type engine blocks. How many miles on engine/tranny?

And there are guys that go that fast or faster on motorcycles....

I have an R180 you can have free, but shipping will cost you... I have to take it off my Z and put on an R200... Anything to help a fellow Z'r.

This is actually a ball point pen that my wife brought home about 1 week after I bought the '75 Z - running strong but needs floorpans/paint. I immediately said "that's the color!" and took over the pen - for which I paid with a new Parker! I agree that it has a bit of green and in fact, HOK has a color called Neon Chartreuse, that aside from being too transparent is fairly close. I have always said I was looking for a bright yellow with a tinge of green to it...

RacerX: Did you look at the picture link for the yellow color I'm trying for?

Here is one pic of the Yellow that I am looking for on a pen. The paper is copier paper and looks whiter, so you can imagine what the pen looks like. I will try to get a pic around noon in full sun to see what that will do for the picture.... http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=coppermine&file=displayimage&pos=-419

Not a problem for me - I pop in & out of a lot of forums and someone said "old tech" and someone else said cracking. I was specific about the 2M rubberized undercoating too. As I said, I haven't decided yet. Have you checked out the Autobody Store and its BBS? http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index

Man, I'm not even close - just got the rotisserie built,a nd am sanding/ospho-ing/painting it. (I do have a couple of additions to weld/clean/paint that will allow me to use a couple of bottle jacks to jack the car up once mounted on the rotisserie that I have to finish, but these are extra pieces that aren't absolutely necessary) I will then have to figure out how to mount the car to the rotisserie, remove the interior and lights/front fenders (seats, engine, tranny and gas tank out already) in order to weld in floor pans/subchassis connectors. Will follow your advise on Zero Rust for underbody and interior. Some have ridiculed me at the thought of using the 3M undercoating, saying it will eventually crack, and to use bedliner type on the underside - I am undecided on that part. Only after all this and interior is done will I start on the outside - and then I'll have the rear Qtr to put on and driprails to remove. Fortunately the body is straight - not even many small dents! (of course, when I strip down to metal it may be a different story!!!) I have seen the Lemon Drop DuPont Hot Color and liked it... The Mazda (at least on the website) looks too dark - I want one that is almost flourescent. I swear I saw a Z on SpeedVision or Spike last year that looked great - I think it used to be Mr. K's car, and the lady that was his secretary now has it (I think). It was a bright yellow with just a tinge of green to it. I need to charge my digital camera and take a picture of a pen that has a color that is close...

Man, I'm no even close - just got the rotisserie built,a nd am sanding/ospho-ing/painting it. (I do have a couple of additions to weld/clean/paint that will allow me to use a couple of bottle jacks to jack the car up once mounted on the rotisserie that I have to finish, but these are extra pieces that aren't absolutely necessary) I will then have to figure out how to mount the car to the rotisserie, remove the interior and lights/front fenders (seats, engine, tranny and gas tank out already) in order to weld in floor pans/subchassis connectors. Will follow your advise on Zero Rust for underbody and interior. Some have ridiculed me at the thought of using the 3M undercoating, saying it will eventually crack, and to use bedliner type on the underside - I am undecided on that part. Only after all this and interior is done will I start on the outside - and then I'll have the rear Qtr to put on and driprails to remove. Fortunately the body is straight - not even many small dents! (of course, when I strip down to metal it may be a different story!!!) I have seen the Lemon Drop DuPont Hot Color and liked it... The Mazda (at least on the website) looks too dark - I want one that is almost flourescent. I swear I saw a Z on SpeedVision or Spike last year that looked great - I think it used to be Mr. K's car, and the lady that was his secretary now has it (I think). It was a bright yellow with just a tinge of green to it. I need to charge my digital camera and take a picture of a pen that has a color that is close...

You must be confused - you would only need a bonnet for a blow-thru carb setup. I am of course assuming that you are not talking about the 70's LT-1 engine.... What I am guessing you are talking about is piping from either the turbo or intercooler to the throttle body. Unfortunately, I have no clue as to where to obtain this, but I need to know also - although it may not be an LT1 that I will be using....

Scrape/wire brush all the rust off, coat with Picklex or Ospho, scuff this and paint with Zero Rust. Then do the bedliner. You can always mask off the drivetrain parts if you spray...

Look here: http://www.hammondsplains.com/zclub/techtips/turbo/turbomaps/index.htm About 1.68 times the displacement....1.68 times the airflow from 0 boost. Figure about 4.7 litres...thats the volume of air the displacement of the engine and 10 lbs. of boost will produce. Other factors like intercooling have an effect also....

Depends on efficiency of the intercooler and its' size, and how well you can control fuel and ignition.

Z Barn IS NOT MSA - Z Barn is outside Knoxville, TN.

I didn't build the site, I discovered it a couple months ago and love to share it. That is not the turbonetics site, but it does have maps, which the Turbonetics site no longer has...