Brad-ManQ45

I will be using Rolox discs to take off paint, and a lot of elbox grease on the interior. I do have a pressure sandblaster, but won't use it inside the car at all, and no real need outside except for crossmembers and suspension cleanup before painting them. The sandblaster is more for cleaning up the rotisserie after I have it welded up before painting it - I only clean the areas that I am welding. The metal has been sitting for a while and has some surface rust. I have been told that 2 qts of DP should handle engine compartment and exterior. Then a gallon of primer/filler. Since I wil be spraying yellow, I'll probably get 2 qts of DP40 for the first coats and 1 qt of DP48 and reduce it and use as a sealer over the primer/filler. White will be a much better base for the yellow, don't you think?

My Chilton's manual shows a completely different turbine housing for the Z31 as compared to the Z130... Why would you want to put a non-watercooled center section turbo in? You could hust swap turbine housings...

For those of you who have done this... Full ground up and total stripping of paint inside and out. How much primer to buy? HF HVLP gun for primer Will probably use Zero Rust underneath and on interior. ZR says 1 gal = 288 sq. feet at 3 mils. I figure a gallon would be more than enough for interior and underneath. Verdict is still out on using Zero Rust on exterior/engine bay and letting sit for a while before scuffing and topcoating, or using epoxy. Should I ccount on a gallon here? What about bc/cc quantities for exterior/engine bay/jambs? 3 qts bc and a gallon of cc? primer will be white and I'm shooting a light/bright yellow...If I paint it myself will get a Sharps Platinum HVLP... TIA, Brad

bump...

bump... John, you out there?

IMHO if you are rebuilding an engine (low HP), balancing is not an option - blueprinting would be...

I'd be interested to know what su you would be using in those enclosures. A normal 12" would require ~1.75 cu. ft. of volume...

If this will be a street car, don't put the full cage in - just come off the main hoop down to the front of the rocker box next to the seat. That way you don't have to worry about your noggin'...

That looks close...

I'm gonna try putting in a 300ZXT coil - someone told me that if the coil is goibg bad that this is a symptom. In my case, if I idle for w while the engine will die, cool off for 20 mins w/hood up and starts right up!

I have the MM175 (240V) and infinite voltage control...

Definitely NOT!

I have Eibachs and Illuminas on my ZXT. Was running 205/60/15's on stock rims (Michelin MXV4's), then got 16X7" w/205/55's on front and 225/50's on rear (GSC's). Noisier, but ride wasn't bad - didn't last long though. Bought F1 Steels (same sizes) and ride did get a little worse - much stiffer sidewalls. I DEFINITELY would not put 17" on either of my Z's. For drag, I'd like a 14X8 to put some DR's on the rear.... For street/autocross, 15 or 16 inches.

I would think that you would want to be able to set the pressure the WI starts at and the volume that is added, kind of like a fuel computer. You definitely don't need it at near stock boost levels, so you don't want to be draining the tank unnecessarily. I haven'tchcked into what is out there, but would ? why you feel you need it - a good aftermarket system will supply enogh fuel to prevent detonation. Now if you're heading into 20+ lbs of boost, I could see the need. The money a good setup would cost would be better spent on MSnS and possibly bigger injectors - you'll have the advantage of losing the AFM and much better throttle/boost response. Even retaining the stock injectors you will be better off until you want more than ~260 HP. I am of couse assuming that you are running the stock computer here from looking at your previous posts. This is JMHO. You can buy the MS prebuilt for $200. With the results mobythevan has had, I see no reason to do WI until all the fuel issues are resolved due to the limitaions of the stock setup. In the book Turbocharging by Hugh MacInnes, there are definite pros to WI, but the ability to tune the fuel was just as important. That along with the fact that if you are relying on the WI to prevent detonation and you happen to run out at the wrong time, you may fry the engine. I would rather look at WI as a way of keeping the combustion chambers clean...

If you keep the stock tires on it I see no problem....

On behalf of everyone following your lead w/MSnS and UMS - THANKS!

Doing a search would find things like" http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=28464

One word - search.

Congratulations! I am assuming this wasn't a surprise. If it was - you DO know what causes this - right? Mines' out of college now - if my wife gave me this news I'd probably croak, and if I didn't I'd probably drink myself to death.

Stick w/2/5" - possibly 3" where the bends are.

Bad news again! Well, it comes in threes - you should be safe for a while - right?

I'd check Grumpyvette's posts about matchin cam to compression...

The dump valve and its' fittings. But hey - for $10 what do you expect?

This tells you how to put the Auto from a Starion ESIR / Conquest TSI / 300 ZX Turbo into the ZX, should be near same for Z: http://www.zcar.com/articles/twheel/4spdauto/

Others more knowledgable will chime in I'm, sure, but given your directions, I would only get rid of the red coats. The gray may be primer/sealer over the brownish etching primer. I would question why not taking it down to bare metal and re-priming - once the top coat is gone the primer/sealer and etching primer alone will not protect from rust....