Brad-ManQ45

his may help - compressor maps for stock and T3/T4's sized for a 2.8 and showing 10, 15 and 20 lb. lines... http://www.hammondsplains.com/zclub/techtips/turbo/turbomaps/index.htm

According to BFG, and my own first VB program from '91, 225/60/14 is the same diameter as the stock 205/60/15's. What is the width of your wheels? If you measure rim to rim subtract 1"... I personally would only go 225's on 7 or 8" rims for crisper handling reasons, but 6's will work.

Ditto

I have amn '83ZXT and it came stock with 205/60/15 tires. I went to 205/55/16's in front and 225/59/16's in rear w/GSC's - which didn't last very long but ride was fine. I then put on F1 Steels, and the ride got a bit worse. I would not put 13's on - I'd go with 14's if you are concerned with ride - 7" rims and 215/60/14 tires ride pretty well on my '75...

http://hybridz.org/nuke/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=9093&highlight=neapco The key word is Neapco...

Nathan - I'm just repeating info from Hugh MacInnes "Turbochargers" on spool up. What you are not taking into consideration is the very large diameter of the single turbo's turbine and associated weight further from the shaft. His example stated that in a typical scenario that the moment of inertia for the large turbo was 2.5 times greater than for the small turbo. By my math, that means that there is a 20% hit on how quickly the single turbo will spool given double the exhaust volume...but I'm no math expert. I will quote him now: "Where turbocharger acceleration is important, I recommend you use two small units instead of one large one." This was my reason for making the statement about roadracing and autocross. Andrew did not mention what his application was. In my case, it will be a TT SBC - no I won't be racing it, but on a V engine there are less hassles with exhaust leaks with twin systems - and I'm not sure I'd have enough room for a single big one even if I move the battery. I have no desire to TT my 280ZXT, just get a bigger compressor section for the T3/T4 I've already got...even with only S3 trim and clipped turbine IT IS FAST. You should note that the Skylines are inline sixes and have RULED with twin turbos - banned from rally competitions even. Racers that go for top speed and drags generally go one big one on small engines because the spool characteristics are not an issue.

The engine computer doesn't have anything to do wih the dash and climate...separate harnesses for each.

Total output would not be the deciding factor. Spoolup behavior and shifting under acceleration are the factors you would make the decision on. What size engine and amount of boost? If you can get the same efficiency w/one turbo as you can with 2, then whaht is the car used for? If drag racing, the single would probably be better, because during shifting the bigger will not lose as much speed (even in the short time of a shift). For autocross/roadrace, two smaller turbos would spin up faster for better response when starting to accelerate. Please note the condition that I assumed - the same effeciency and airflow from each setup. You would probably have better midrange on the twin and better top end on the single.

HAs high and low beams - Low are HID the high beam uses an H1 (efficient) halogen bulb. They come with a separate harness "supplied as the existing vehicle wiring is not designed to support the high start-up current required for an HID ballast", which I would imagine has relays in it, but don't quote me... Personally, I have always been fond of Cibie headlights, having replaced all sealed beam units on my cars with them (every size represented in the fleet over the years). I'm not sure that the $300 difference in cost is worth it just for low beams. I could have aux lights in my air dam that would more than make up the diff for <=$150....

I will be using Rolox discs to take off paint, and a lot of elbox grease on the interior. I do have a pressure sandblaster, but won't use it inside the car at all, and no real need outside except for crossmembers and suspension cleanup before painting them. The sandblaster is more for cleaning up the rotisserie after I have it welded up before painting it - I only clean the areas that I am welding. The metal has been sitting for a while and has some surface rust. I have been told that 2 qts of DP should handle engine compartment and exterior. Then a gallon of primer/filler. Since I wil be spraying yellow, I'll probably get 2 qts of DP40 for the first coats and 1 qt of DP48 and reduce it and use as a sealer over the primer/filler. White will be a much better base for the yellow, don't you think?

My Chilton's manual shows a completely different turbine housing for the Z31 as compared to the Z130... Why would you want to put a non-watercooled center section turbo in? You could hust swap turbine housings...

For those of you who have done this... Full ground up and total stripping of paint inside and out. How much primer to buy? HF HVLP gun for primer Will probably use Zero Rust underneath and on interior. ZR says 1 gal = 288 sq. feet at 3 mils. I figure a gallon would be more than enough for interior and underneath. Verdict is still out on using Zero Rust on exterior/engine bay and letting sit for a while before scuffing and topcoating, or using epoxy. Should I ccount on a gallon here? What about bc/cc quantities for exterior/engine bay/jambs? 3 qts bc and a gallon of cc? primer will be white and I'm shooting a light/bright yellow...If I paint it myself will get a Sharps Platinum HVLP... TIA, Brad

bump...

bump... John, you out there?

IMHO if you are rebuilding an engine (low HP), balancing is not an option - blueprinting would be...

I'd be interested to know what su you would be using in those enclosures. A normal 12" would require ~1.75 cu. ft. of volume...

If this will be a street car, don't put the full cage in - just come off the main hoop down to the front of the rocker box next to the seat. That way you don't have to worry about your noggin'...

That looks close...

I'm gonna try putting in a 300ZXT coil - someone told me that if the coil is goibg bad that this is a symptom. In my case, if I idle for w while the engine will die, cool off for 20 mins w/hood up and starts right up!

I have the MM175 (240V) and infinite voltage control...

Definitely NOT!

I have Eibachs and Illuminas on my ZXT. Was running 205/60/15's on stock rims (Michelin MXV4's), then got 16X7" w/205/55's on front and 225/50's on rear (GSC's). Noisier, but ride wasn't bad - didn't last long though. Bought F1 Steels (same sizes) and ride did get a little worse - much stiffer sidewalls. I DEFINITELY would not put 17" on either of my Z's. For drag, I'd like a 14X8 to put some DR's on the rear.... For street/autocross, 15 or 16 inches.

I would think that you would want to be able to set the pressure the WI starts at and the volume that is added, kind of like a fuel computer. You definitely don't need it at near stock boost levels, so you don't want to be draining the tank unnecessarily. I haven'tchcked into what is out there, but would ? why you feel you need it - a good aftermarket system will supply enogh fuel to prevent detonation. Now if you're heading into 20+ lbs of boost, I could see the need. The money a good setup would cost would be better spent on MSnS and possibly bigger injectors - you'll have the advantage of losing the AFM and much better throttle/boost response. Even retaining the stock injectors you will be better off until you want more than ~260 HP. I am of couse assuming that you are running the stock computer here from looking at your previous posts. This is JMHO. You can buy the MS prebuilt for $200. With the results mobythevan has had, I see no reason to do WI until all the fuel issues are resolved due to the limitaions of the stock setup. In the book Turbocharging by Hugh MacInnes, there are definite pros to WI, but the ability to tune the fuel was just as important. That along with the fact that if you are relying on the WI to prevent detonation and you happen to run out at the wrong time, you may fry the engine. I would rather look at WI as a way of keeping the combustion chambers clean...

If you keep the stock tires on it I see no problem....

On behalf of everyone following your lead w/MSnS and UMS - THANKS!