Brad-ManQ45

A wife decides to take her husband to a topless club for his birthday. They arrive at the club and the doorman says, "Hey, Roy! How ya doin'?" His wife is puzzled and asks if he's been to this club before. Never,"says Roy. "But the doorman's on my bowling team." Once they're seated, a waitress asks Roy if he'd like his usual and brings over a Canadian and 7. His wife is becoming increasingly uncomfortable and says, "How did she know you drink Canadian Club?" "She's in the Ladies' Bowling League, honey. We share lanes with them. We know each others' habits." A blonde stripper then comes over to their table, takes off her top, throws her arms around Roy, and says "Roy, baby. Want your usual table dance, big guy?" Roy's wife, now furious, grabs her purse and storms out of the bar. Roy follows her and spots her getting into a cab. Before she can slam the door, he jumps in beside her. He tries desperately to explain how the stripper must have mistaken him for someone else, but his wife is having none of it. She screams at him at the top of her lungs, and calls him every name in the book. After a couple minutes, the cabby turns his head and says, "Looks like you picked up a real bitch tonight, Roy."

RacerX - that color is very close - a lettle more 'flourescent' yellow to brighten it and I'd do it - half that and half HOK Neon Chartreuse would be perfect... Oh well - let's see what the PPG rep can come up with....

What good is a search when some people can't understand what they are reading enough to make use of the info? There are some that do the search and then ask questions that a modicum of common sense or mechanical knowledge would prevent - they have no clue! I myself have occasionally had lapses - especially late at night after a long day, but when they can't add 2+2 and get 4 it is irritating. I love searching - I have uncovered ungodly amounts of info with this simple feature and this site. Of course I am 50, and have hot-rodded for 33 of those years, can pick up a manual/instructions and after reading KNOW what needs to be done, and can ususally figure out how things work on my own. I remember responding to a post one time - I can't remember what board - about how to take a carbeurator off. I responded - If you can't look at it and see what has to be done - maybe you shouldn't be doing it yourself. Maybe I'm too harsh -

After my dad sold his boat (45') and plane (Mooney Super 21) he quoted me the 3 'F' rule: If it Flies, Floats or F@#ks - rent it. I don't know how much this means coming from someone married for 50 years, and I obviously ignored it because I got married again AFTER the advice... Stick to your guns - remember the two happiest days in a boatowners' life - they day they bought it and the day they sold it.

I seem to recal it's about 1.5"...

I guess I'm elected to be the A-hole on this one... Let's see: If you are swapping to 5 lug hubs, you will have to change rotors - they slide on over the wheel studs. This will necessitate changing calipers/brackets to line up with the new rotor position - which is moved outward with the Z31 hubs so you present brackets won't locate the calipers properly. Why bother to utilize the marginal components of the 4 lug syystem when switching to 5 lug? Why bother with 5 lugs if you're not looking for performance? Aside from the meager selection of reasonably priced wheels that fit properly on 4 lug setup (I DO like Panasports!), you can get adapters for other wheels if you're only after looks. If you're gonna put a bad-ass LT1 in a Z then you better have the brakes to match...

Solids should be checked every 7-15K miles depending upon how anal you are and previous history. If you don't wind it out a lot, you can go longer. Some have gone 30k without need for adjustment. Rollers are a lot different story than non- rollers that wear more. If the cam gives you what you want as far as torque/hp where you want it - stick with it, otherwise change it. If you don't spin past 6200 rpm, if you decide to chabge cams, go hydraulic and don't worry about valve lash anymore. Roller Rockers (fulcruns and ends) are nice, but if the present cam works for you, don't bother swapping them out until you have to tear it apart for anither reason... This is all based on squeezing every lasdt penny....

I'd use a T-5, unless you're going after a lot of power...

I just noticed you asked how to tell the two apart. If you have a 280, then all you need to do is the resistor and adjust the calibration screw. If you really need to konw which one you've got, in looking at the JTR manual, the 240 tach has what looks like light colored wires on the right side of the tach (about the 3 o'clock position) when looking at the back of it The 260/280 tach seems to have only one dark wire coming out of that spot..... That and the 260/280 tach looks like it has a built in bracket on the bottom coming 'up' from the edge.

I've read a lot of good things about Zero Rust - a DTM primer/topcoat. Available in Gal/Qt/Spray can. Apparently, after waiting a month to fully cure, there are probably no issues with scuffing/priming/sanding/blocking and topcoating. Look up: http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/bbs2/webbbs_config.pl?noframes;read=2046

The guts of the 260/280 go in the 240 tach - the 240 guts are worthless...

I used to live in Round Rock, before that off N. Lamar and I-35. Had one of my stores in Cedar Park. When I lived there I didn't have my Z's - had Conquests and Starions... Like your Z!

15K ohms 1/2 watt This is for the HEI distributor. You have to use the 260/280 guts in a 240 tach. You have to use the resistor or the needle will bounce all over the place.

Been ther, done it - 280ZXT...

I got a running '75 Z for $300 in about that shape - L Qtr needs replacing and 1 hole in floor. Engine was STRONG!

Very Nice!

I got the plans from the following site, but substituted 1/4" tubing for the 11 guage the plans called for. I also fabbed the platforms for jacking the car up off the jackstands it will be on to whatever height I want. http://members.tripod.com/~mopar_roadster/body_rotisserie.html

RacerX: My auto paint supplier has the card book you're talking about so I'll hit them next week...

Thanks a lot RacerX! I have been having a conversation w/the PPG rep (new one for my area) about the clear that Regal Nissan put on when I had the color changed on my ZXT in '95 that is bubbling/separating. I was gonna see what he could do for the color....

Grumpyvette: How about if one was to use them in a forced induction engine? Would you still not?

About $250 in metal and a lot of labor - most of the metal bought ~2 years ago and it's gone up. Drilling all the holes tok a while. I learned how to sharpen drill bits by hand before I was finished - even with cooling the bits while drilling... Don't try it with a cheap benchtop drill press - ask me how I know - OK, I'll tell you - those cheap things from HF on sale for $39 have neither the up and down stroke nor the torque for efficient cutting of 1/4" steel tubing. I borrowed my dad's Ryobi benchtop and what a difference. I'm sure I was getting the full 1/3 HP from it! - and the stroke was great too! Oh well, I wont be doing this again, and the cheapo I bought does fine on thinner metal and wood, and is all that I need 0 plus it's a hell of a lot easier to move around necause it's so much lighter...

Here's a pic in my album... I fabbed some moving platforms so I could use bottle jacks to lift the car off the jackstands it will be on...

Good Luck!

You will need a wiring harness from a non turbo digital dash car unless you want to start matching wires to pins...

Most people will use something like machinists bluing put on, then the gasket in place and use a scribe to outline the gasket opening. There are a few sites out there detailinf TB swaps showing pics of the TB porting to the intake manifold... a search should find 'em.