Brad-ManQ45

Thanks a lot RacerX! I have been having a conversation w/the PPG rep (new one for my area) about the clear that Regal Nissan put on when I had the color changed on my ZXT in '95 that is bubbling/separating. I was gonna see what he could do for the color....

Grumpyvette: How about if one was to use them in a forced induction engine? Would you still not?

About $250 in metal and a lot of labor - most of the metal bought ~2 years ago and it's gone up. Drilling all the holes tok a while. I learned how to sharpen drill bits by hand before I was finished - even with cooling the bits while drilling... Don't try it with a cheap benchtop drill press - ask me how I know - OK, I'll tell you - those cheap things from HF on sale for $39 have neither the up and down stroke nor the torque for efficient cutting of 1/4" steel tubing. I borrowed my dad's Ryobi benchtop and what a difference. I'm sure I was getting the full 1/3 HP from it! - and the stroke was great too! Oh well, I wont be doing this again, and the cheapo I bought does fine on thinner metal and wood, and is all that I need 0 plus it's a hell of a lot easier to move around necause it's so much lighter...

Here's a pic in my album... I fabbed some moving platforms so I could use bottle jacks to lift the car off the jackstands it will be on...

Good Luck!

You will need a wiring harness from a non turbo digital dash car unless you want to start matching wires to pins...

Most people will use something like machinists bluing put on, then the gasket in place and use a scribe to outline the gasket opening. There are a few sites out there detailinf TB swaps showing pics of the TB porting to the intake manifold... a search should find 'em.

Can't get'em new any more. I'm gonna start w/an R200 3.54 open, but switch to an R230 w. 3.357 from an Armada...when I have the bucks...

Thanks RacerX!

Wish I had your problem... I'm just now ready to put my '75 on the rotisserie.

Once you have the air measured(AFM or MAS) you should recirculate and not vent...The type/manufacturer of device doesn't matter.

Exhaust gas recirculation. If the vave is sticking open the engine dies at idle - you have to keep the revs up...

Have you blocked off the EGR?

GolDraven - YOFU ARE CRUEL! DON'T EVER DO SOMETHING LIKE THAT AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'm hoping my nads recover...

Everyone I've heard talk about it thinks HOK is the BOMB... What color are you gonna paint the chassis? If you can deal with the overspray and higher paint costs, use the gun you've got if you are used to it. Try these two sites for body & paint info: http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index http://autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=044f9164f9248f3d8a8ca730b35c89f4

You could do a search, and you can go to these two sites and read the posts there: http://autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=044f9164f9248f3d8a8ca730b35c89f4 http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?index

Depends. What do you use the car for. If just drag racing leave it be. For a daily driver/autoX, the advantages of lower/further back translate to better weight distribution (handling/steering effort/less weight on front). Almost everyone doing a conversion on this board goes with JTR, and some have switched to it from Scarab and not looked back...

Nice & tidy Sean!

I have that site on my favorites list, but haven't been there for a good while - excellent! They were suppsedly working on SBC turbo kit when I added it, but it never happened and others did it. Good catch fl327!

Sounds like something that could be programmed into the new UMS due out this summer, but not anything off the shelf right now....

Zero Rust too...RacerX and the AutoBodyStore site swear by it...

Are you referring to the MSR type H4's? I too run Cibies on my 83ZXT - and don't feel a need to replace them. However, I will need to get some lights for the '75 V* project eventually and would like to hear about comparison to Cibies...

C25 will make for less penetration than straight CO2 - which to me means cooler. Don't take my word for ir - go to Hobart's BBB: http://www.hobartwelders.com/techtips.html#mig

AFAIC, flux core and auto sheet metal don't mix - too hot. You really need C25 and .23 or .24 solid core wire.

The delrin/aluminum cup cobined with stock rear bushing is the way I am going. Eventually I'll have to replace the front setup again because it will wear. Some have well over 30K on them so no issue for me... The next best setuo would be poly front and stock rear.