Brad-ManQ45

Personally, I always thought the L-88 hood was the best looking...

Zero Rust is the product... http://www.zerorust.com/ Do a search for Zero and Rust and you will find a couple of threads here...

My '83 ZXT has an oval cannister muffler (DynoMax) that is 20 long (body) ~9" wide and ~4" hihg and it fits no problem. 3" straight though. Works great with the turbo - throaty at idle and doesn't get too loud like the flowmaster did. I love it!

When my company switched to XP, I was one of the first programmers to have to deal with the XP upgrade, and what it did to VB utilizing/testing COM components was a mess - I figured out what needed to be done, but just upgrading to XP would not allow what had worked on 2000 in the development environment - had to manually create a package and drop the component into it in order for it to work in the development environment. With 2000, no pproblem - code the component and run it...

FWIW - I don't believe in using Flowmaster/Spintech/PressureWave technology type mufflers on turbocharged cars - a lot of the noice cancellation ability seems to be lost with the milder pulsations. When I switched form Flowmaster to Dynomax UltraFlow, I picked up power and got a lot quieter...

Make sure to clean out the oil supply line and drain to/from the turbo - a number of people don't and wind up with another blown turbo...

280ZXT's had CV's...

Love it! I'll wait impatiently for more news, and then the money for one!

Middle-aged man goes into the drugstore and the pharmacist asks what he can get him after he appeared to be having a hard time finding what he wanted in condoms. The man said that he wanted a condom with insecticide on it. The pharmacist said "I think you mean SPERMICIDE, don't you?" The man replied, with an edge to his voice, "I know exactly what I meant and want - my wife's had a bug up her a$$ for 2 weeks, and I aim to kill it."

Some have injected nitrous on an angle directly into the compressor housing to help spool...

Tried the link and got error today...

rumblezzz: You cannot use setback plates on a ZX/ you only need spacers.

I've been requesting 5 lug hubs w/stock offset every time someone mentions aluminum hubs - finally someone with the ability and need comes to my aid!

Contact Ross Corrigan Here's a link to what he's got... http://www.modern-motorsports.com

One down, one to go - I'm doing general contracting until IT loosens up...

A wife decides to take her husband to a topless club for his birthday. They arrive at the club and the doorman says, "Hey, Roy! How ya doin'?" His wife is puzzled and asks if he's been to this club before. Never,"says Roy. "But the doorman's on my bowling team." Once they're seated, a waitress asks Roy if he'd like his usual and brings over a Canadian and 7. His wife is becoming increasingly uncomfortable and says, "How did she know you drink Canadian Club?" "She's in the Ladies' Bowling League, honey. We share lanes with them. We know each others' habits." A blonde stripper then comes over to their table, takes off her top, throws her arms around Roy, and says "Roy, baby. Want your usual table dance, big guy?" Roy's wife, now furious, grabs her purse and storms out of the bar. Roy follows her and spots her getting into a cab. Before she can slam the door, he jumps in beside her. He tries desperately to explain how the stripper must have mistaken him for someone else, but his wife is having none of it. She screams at him at the top of her lungs, and calls him every name in the book. After a couple minutes, the cabby turns his head and says, "Looks like you picked up a real bitch tonight, Roy."

RacerX - that color is very close - a lettle more 'flourescent' yellow to brighten it and I'd do it - half that and half HOK Neon Chartreuse would be perfect... Oh well - let's see what the PPG rep can come up with....

What good is a search when some people can't understand what they are reading enough to make use of the info? There are some that do the search and then ask questions that a modicum of common sense or mechanical knowledge would prevent - they have no clue! I myself have occasionally had lapses - especially late at night after a long day, but when they can't add 2+2 and get 4 it is irritating. I love searching - I have uncovered ungodly amounts of info with this simple feature and this site. Of course I am 50, and have hot-rodded for 33 of those years, can pick up a manual/instructions and after reading KNOW what needs to be done, and can ususally figure out how things work on my own. I remember responding to a post one time - I can't remember what board - about how to take a carbeurator off. I responded - If you can't look at it and see what has to be done - maybe you shouldn't be doing it yourself. Maybe I'm too harsh -

After my dad sold his boat (45') and plane (Mooney Super 21) he quoted me the 3 'F' rule: If it Flies, Floats or F@#ks - rent it. I don't know how much this means coming from someone married for 50 years, and I obviously ignored it because I got married again AFTER the advice... Stick to your guns - remember the two happiest days in a boatowners' life - they day they bought it and the day they sold it.

I seem to recal it's about 1.5"...

I guess I'm elected to be the A-hole on this one... Let's see: If you are swapping to 5 lug hubs, you will have to change rotors - they slide on over the wheel studs. This will necessitate changing calipers/brackets to line up with the new rotor position - which is moved outward with the Z31 hubs so you present brackets won't locate the calipers properly. Why bother to utilize the marginal components of the 4 lug syystem when switching to 5 lug? Why bother with 5 lugs if you're not looking for performance? Aside from the meager selection of reasonably priced wheels that fit properly on 4 lug setup (I DO like Panasports!), you can get adapters for other wheels if you're only after looks. If you're gonna put a bad-ass LT1 in a Z then you better have the brakes to match...

Solids should be checked every 7-15K miles depending upon how anal you are and previous history. If you don't wind it out a lot, you can go longer. Some have gone 30k without need for adjustment. Rollers are a lot different story than non- rollers that wear more. If the cam gives you what you want as far as torque/hp where you want it - stick with it, otherwise change it. If you don't spin past 6200 rpm, if you decide to chabge cams, go hydraulic and don't worry about valve lash anymore. Roller Rockers (fulcruns and ends) are nice, but if the present cam works for you, don't bother swapping them out until you have to tear it apart for anither reason... This is all based on squeezing every lasdt penny....

I'd use a T-5, unless you're going after a lot of power...

I just noticed you asked how to tell the two apart. If you have a 280, then all you need to do is the resistor and adjust the calibration screw. If you really need to konw which one you've got, in looking at the JTR manual, the 240 tach has what looks like light colored wires on the right side of the tach (about the 3 o'clock position) when looking at the back of it The 260/280 tach seems to have only one dark wire coming out of that spot..... That and the 260/280 tach looks like it has a built in bracket on the bottom coming 'up' from the edge.

I've read a lot of good things about Zero Rust - a DTM primer/topcoat. Available in Gal/Qt/Spray can. Apparently, after waiting a month to fully cure, there are probably no issues with scuffing/priming/sanding/blocking and topcoating. Look up: http://www.autobodystore.com/cgi-bin/bbs2/webbbs_config.pl?noframes;read=2046