Brad-ManQ45

http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm

In a word - distortion...From the oval driver, and the blocking of same by the speaker(s) in front of it. Two 6" speakers will have more area and produce less distortion than a 6X9. You could probably have 6 or more 6" across the back panel along with mids and tweets and have much better sound than two 6X9's. Of course this will cost more, but by using an array of 6" you can somewhat make up the lack of a subwoofer. Since I don't autocross my ZXT, I rarely have to remove the sub box assembly - especially now that I have the Loncoln Town Car with its' big trunk...

Instead of 6X9's in back I would consider an array of 6's and a couple of tweeters - possibly some 3.5 or 4" - I don't like 6X9's. Shouldn't be too difficult to have a custom enclosure made to acommodate this. In my 83ZXT I have a Sony CD head unit, CD changer, ADS speakers with the 5 1/4's in custom enclosures on the doors, the tweeters mounted in the door about 6" above that. A Hafler 100 w/ch amp feeds these. I have a simple set of Pioneer 6.5" coaxes powered by a Rockford Fosgate Punch 22 in the stock behind the seat location for rear fill. I have an Audio Control Eq/Crossover for the front and (yes I DO USE a) subwoofer - a Competition 12" in a 1.75 cu. ft. enclosure powered by a R-F Punch 100. The enclosure has the CD changer and Punch 100 attached to it so that I can remove the whole rig if I need to haul something. This was all put together over 9 years ago. It's not the loudest but it is accurate, and I can hear it well with the t-tops off on the freeway at illegal speeds. I did put DynaMat in the doors...

Hey wigenOut-S30: That's a spoiler not a wing. A wing stands on pedestals, either at the ends like a SuperBird/F40 or like on the old 71-71 Mustangs - somewhere not the ends. Me - I'm a fan of the BRE rear spoiler...Not molded in...

SleeperZ: If you're talking about an oval DynoMax straight thru 3: body ~19" long, that's what I had put on w/my 3" exhaust and cat. I too replace a 2.5" Flowmaster POS system. I LOVE mine. ('83ZXT)

ok - so what's your question? Are you aware that there is a sticky in the Turbo/Supercharger forum on swapping in the 300ZXR ECU?

Go eith the bigger M/C. Put the proportioning valve in when you swap the M/C. You WILL need to adjust it - nothing ever works perfectly when mixing parts....to believe otherwise is JPF.

try here guys: http://www.tabcobodyparts.com/html/167.htm These are made in th e U S of A and I have heard they are great quality.

All 280ZX's did not have R200's. All automatics had R180's. Some manuals too... Check out the techical article on rear ends/ratios here: http://zhome.com/

Are you sure that the wiring is set up correctly to supply power to the coil AFTER cranking? I seem to recall that someone else had this problem - not necessarily w/MS...

These are both non-inverter types - equivalent to the SynchroWqve 250 and 350 - the Millers have more features. EVERYBODY carries Lincoln and Miller parts. You get what you pay for.... 'Nuff Said...

not the same...

Thanks guys - not ready for this, just curious...

If I were going to do it, I would start by removing the turbo and exhaust manifold and made cardboard templates from engine block to inner fenders at front and rear of block, and representing the strut towers sticking into the area. I would then mock up other obstructions such as motor mount and steering shaft and crossmember. I would be generous in the size of the obstructions instead of exact measurements for clearance purposes. I would assemble this with balsa glue/duct tape in order to have a model of the space I would be working with/in able to sit on my workbench, wher I would have the option of sitting or standing without bending over or having to reach up all the time on my back (I'm 50 now and don't relish working bent over a fender or reaching up all the time - I reserve out of position work for more entertaining pursuits). I would then get a bunch of cardboard tubes (say from Xmas paper) and start cutting and duct taping. I would probably use balsa to mock up the flange for the head using the old gasket as a template, and I'd make it 3/8" to 1/2" thick - I like thick for exhaust. I would then get a bunch of cardboard tubes (say from Xmas paper) and start cutting and duct taping. If I were doing it I would have all tubes the same length +- 1/2". If I were using a divided turbine housing, have cylinders 1,2 & 3 come in on one side of a divided collector, cylinders 4, 5 & 6 on the other - to maximize the exhaust pulses for spooling. If not using a divided housing, then it wouldn't make any difference where the tubes come into the collector. I would also make provision for an external wastegate. After the design is all taped up, then verify that it will fit (you can get it into the space, and then the turbo, and that all intake/exhaust plumbing will fit.

I know HKS and Deltagate are out there, but don't know of others or which would be best in the 400 HP range venting a Stage III trim .63 A/R turbine section.... What are your opinions?

R230 or another R200

If you do a compression test on each cylinder, then do it again adding a tsp of oil to each cylinder through the spark plug hole abd the compression doesn't raise appreciably, then it is your stems/guides.

I think you should be looking into a Synchrowave 350DX or Dynasty 300DX, depending on whether you're partial to inverter technology. The Dynasty has a few really neat features. Ask some experts on the Miller and Hobart sites...

Monkey on her back? Bet she's a bitch... Now - how do we get this bitch to buck? Who's hounding the hound? Whoa Bitch!

The trailblazer is an excellent setup - best in its' class. Won't handle 3/8ths aluminum - you only have ~200 amps output AC/TIG. Almost all machines will have to multi-pass on 3/8" aluminum - you need ~375 amps to single pass it. Do you need the portability? Nothing you've stated in the past threads leads me to believe you are going to make a living on the road with this - do you really need to be able to weld outside the shop? I would be inclined to get the one with the Kohler engine - parts seem to be easier to find. The nice thing about the Trailblazer is that it has a completely divorced AC output, so whatever you are doing on the A/C output doesn't affect your arc. All that said, with quality being job #1 (sorry, couldn't resist a Ford Phrase here), I think that you should get a squarewave TIG. The quality of welds from these machines are awsome. Here's an article: http://www.millerwelds.com/education/tech_articles/articles11.php

Being an old FORD man, I never did mess with Chevy's much, and never used the ported vacuum provision on some of the Holley's I used. Ford DID use ported vacuum on some of their engines - the 351C for instance had a vacuum canister that you attached both maiifold AND ported vacuum to. As a hot rodder, I simply used only the middle port on this distributor when turboing and hooked it to the manifold port. Normally the middle/inner port was for ported vacuum and the outer port for manifold...or was it the other way around????? We're talking over 25 years ago....

This poses an interesting question in fluid dynamics: On one hand you have high speed air being introduced before the turbo, keeping it spinning (faster) if you recirculate. When you do open the throttle to build boost again, air will need to START being drawn through the filter again (if in fact there hasn't been any pushed OUT the aircleaner (or MAS) - I doubt it would be possible for this to happen on an AFM). On the other, you are constantly drawing air through the filter and this pumping (or drawing) slows down the turbo more, but the air is constantly being drawn through the filter. In this scenario, you have a column of air already moving throughout the intake tract before the turbo when you get back on the gas. I'm willing to bet on the recirculating method being more conducive to quicker spool-up, the high speed air and higher compressor speed more than making up for any inertial difference in getting the air moving through the filter again. What's everyone else's take on this?

Actually Pyro, when you first open the throttle, the vacuum is lowered until the engine reaches steady state again, during this time, there is not as much advance. The air/fuel ratio is higher because of the shot from the accelerator pump as the throttle is opened requires less advance because the mixture is richer. Basically, at light load (high vacuum conditions) there is more advance dialed in to work on the flamefront, which moves slower under high Air/Fuel ratios. Under load, when Air/Fuel ratios are lower, there isn't as much vacuum and therefore not as much advance, which isn't needed because the A/F ratio is more conducive to propagating the flamefront. The mechanical advance it there to provide for the proper amount of advance at a certain engine speed when there is no vacuum advance - under full throttle conditions. Think of vacuum advance as a way of tuning the timing when not operating under full throttle conditions. It is the combination of fuel injection and timing maps that work to make modern cars more driveable at low speeds/cold start conditions and get good fuel mileage. It is only an aproximation because it doesn't take into consideration temperature like FI systems do. The accelerator pump/cam is basically an approximate way of covering up the lack of airflow/vacuum signal to draw in fuel when the throttle is initially opened. Sure, there are ways to tune this behavior, but it still will not come close to matching FI done right as regards fuel economy.

This has been covered many times before, but: It should be routed back before the turbo and after the AFM (or in a mass air system the mass air unit) because the air measuring device in the system has already measured the air. If you just vent it to atmosphere,when you decelerate quickly after boosting, the engine will run very rich and if you have to get on the gas again quickly you lay down a lot of smoke and don't have as quick a response because the A/F ratio is off. This wastes gas, pollutes the air, lowers the responsiveness of the engine and sounds rice. The bling blings that do this are all drain bamaged (get the double entendre?).

You will wantto treat your bare metal with ospho or picklex, then cover with epoxy primer. The ywo products convert the deep rust to something that won't rust again.