Brad-ManQ45

One possible alternative is a dual 4 bbl manifold and using a couple of Holley 390 CFM carbs. I personally like this better than the idea of small primaries/big secondaries because of fuel distribution issues. W/the 2 small 4's you get pretty even distribution front to rear and when all 4 ~equal size barrels open it gets even better! Best of all would be FI, but everyone has beat that horse.... BTW Chrysler Tri-Power setups on teh Trans-Am Cudas/Challegeres and the 440 six-packs were vacuum operated. A single 4 bbl got better mileage/power though (Ask Dick Landy who had a purple Challenger 440 6Pk convertible). Brad

JohnC: I may be wrong, but in all the mags/articles I've read a 15X7 wheel is actually 8" wide (bead seat on each side). If this is true, wouldn't 0 offset provide 4" backspacing? If you wanted 3.5" backspacing you would need .5" of negative offset. In case any of you tend to get confused by positive/negative offset, I manage to keep it straight by remembering that front wheel drive cars almost always have POSitive offset (the plane of the hub face moved toward outside of wheel). This goes along with my consideration of front wheel drive cars as Pieces Of Sh*t, because I haven't had/driven one I liked the handling or maintenance requirements on (I keep cars a long time and try to treat them well). Hoping to be enlightened.... Brad

I don't believe there are any in the wiring harness anywhere.

What wire are you using? It had better be .023 - .030 will carry/allow too much current. Try a little more stickout and if that isn't enough go to positive polarity also. Do at most 1 inch and then skip ~4-6 inches then when finished w/fist pass keep making more 'till filled in.

mMy understanding is thet the 700 R4(4L60E) is a Trubo 350 w/overdrive and the 4L80E is a Turbo 400 w/overdrive. Separate 1st gear clutches are one big advantage I believe.... You're right - they're expensive, but for what I want do thisis what I want also (as stated in the past). Will keep this thread in mind and keep watching it for info.... Brad

With stock cam I'd go 650 DP. If yo're gonna change it - 750... Your gearing is short so I would think about changing cam... JMHO Brad

Aerodynamically you are way ahead on the 280 ZX bodystyle. Weight-wise you'll be about the same. Weight distribution will not be as good because there is no setback on the engine. This can be alleviated somewhat by going w/the LS1 (if you can mount it) and putting the battery in back. Ask Ross C what he thinks of his. I have an '83 ZXT and I'm building a '75 280 Hybrid. I like this body style better. Whatever floats your boat is the best choice for you!

Electromotive is probably the least expensive...

Okay, since no-one else has volunteered, I'll try and stick it out as long as I can... Wonder if it'll satisfy her.... Brad

Hi Guys! Been away while and saw this one.... Who makes the best 'screen? Thanks, Brad

Have you ever seen what a pig can do to the underside of a car? You DO want to avoid them...

The LT5 engine came in the ZR1 Corvette 1989 to 1995. Originally around 375 - 390 HP in 1994 went to 425. Lotus designed heads and block manufactured my Mercury Marine. Had individual intake runners for each intake with a butterly on one of them for low speed torque. The 'Valet' mode wouldn't open the 2nd runner at all.

I'd say it's a wash from the standpoint of torque applied in the rev range. That is assuming a 'flat' torque curve within the given rpm range. Which one for the street? - the 339 would do it for me - better low end torque (below the 3000 rpm point). Back when NASCAR had both small blocks and big block engines (about the same hp)- the small blocks ruled the small tracks 'cause they got the jump on the big blocks out of the corners. The big blocks ruled on the longer tracks (longer straightaways). Apply this logic to the questions above. And no, I don't have a way of viewing Circle Track magazine.

Dp351zcar: C4 refers to 4th generation Corvette...

JTR (Stealth Conversions has a right angle adapter for those of us Turbo owners w/a T5 tranny - it has a .66/1 reduction in it. This is pretty close to what is needed to set it on KPH and read true - slightly taller tires would probably get you the rest of the way.... brad

I sent Dan a Money order on 6/8/2002 and haven't heard word one from him. I notified him it was on it's way the day I sent it, so he must have been expecting it. Don't know what's up, but not even the courtesy of a return email... And this after he upped the price!

Stealth conversions has a right angle drive adapter for the T-5 transmission. If you are using one of those, it has a .66/1 ratio - set it to Km mode and you get the 3rd digit - but you're off by about 4%....

Here's a link to an article on the Miller site for welding. I remembered this when I read it from a tip I got from the Welding Talk forum on the Hobart site, but when welding thin metal such as car bodies (GMAW), us EP setting, not EN - less heat buildup in the metal being welded.... Miller Welding Article Hope this helps guys! Brad

for some reason I can't use that link...

Pete - not that anyone on this board is a purist, but why not try the vacuum pump from a 280ZX Turbo? I've got 175000 miles on mine w/no problems. I could see going w/a larger canister.

NICE! What size weels/tires and offset/backspacing are you using to fill out the ZG flares? I have been considering them, as I don't like any of the steel ones I have seen and don't want to bond fiberglass.

Good news Mike! Please keep us informed... Brad

I believe that the hotter air acts like a recent wax-job on a private plane only not to the degree the wax job does - makes the vehicle "slipperier". The hotter air (from black) radiating off of the car forms a small (I don't want to call it a barrier) buffer for airflow - the airstream instead of hitting the solid coating of the car hits the buffer of air which is less dense, rendering the car slipperier... Yet another tongue-in-cheek response.... Brad

Daniel Webster once said "The majority of people are wrong the majority of times". My father likes to paraphrase this by saying "The masses are asses" (he is a man of few words and uses the phrase "sh*t for brains" instead of the paraphrase). I tend to agree with him and others on this thread who believe there are too many people who would rather let someone else do their thinking for them, or find the process too fatiguing. For the terminally stupid, I had high hopes for the process of natural selection, but the democrats want to protect their powerbase, and these people form a significant part of it - the rest fall in the above categories. Blondes are sometimes not good-looking enough to attract a smarter man. Our only hope is to legalize drugs in the hopes they'll all be too blasted to breed, or at least help the process of natural selection along by weeding out the ones that are alive only because the high cost of their habit prevents them from doing too much. If I have offended anyone in any way - maybe YOU'RE stupid - so accept my apologies. This has been a tongue-in-cheek response to previously posted messages. The only statements I will admit to as truth are the ones about my father and the democrats. Brad

FYI guys - We seem to have a terminology issue here. A BOV (Blow Off Valve) vents the intake manifold to atmosphere to avoid overboost situations. some manuals refer to it as an 'Emergency Relief Valve'. What we are talking about here is a Compressor By-Pass Valve - designed with the purpose of keeping the turbo from spooling down rapidly because the throttle is closed and the air pumping out of the turbo backs up and slows the unit down. It does this by routing the air stacked up in front of the throttle plate (after the compressor) and routing it to just in front of the compressor. Since you're not on the throttle, the temperature increase is of no significance, but the effect when you get back on the throttle is nothing short of miraculous! It seems every so often people start mis-applying the terms. Everyone that has said the air from the valve needs to get routed to in front of the turbo after the mass air sensor is correct, otherwise the sensor is telling the engine you are USING the air being dumped and run too rich. One of the reasons for using one of these is because we want to make our cars as driveable and responsive as possible. Failing to duct the air back properly in my mind means the effort is half wasted. JMHO, Brad