Brad-ManQ45

I boought the Husky frm Home-Depot - 7HP peak - 60 Gal. 240 volts. I just ran a circuit from my breaker box to it - no big deal. I have it in my basement, and have used PVC piping to both garage (upstairs) and workshop (basement). All piping flows downhill to the compressor. It was (relatively) easy to do with the manufactured trusses my floor supports are made of. I got lucky with the HVAC ducting not presenting a big problem. I put in a 30 amp circuit and have two outlets on it wired in parallel - one for the compressor in the basement and an outlet in the garage for my Millermatic 175 mig welder. I won't be welding and running the air compressor at the same time. The county electrical inspector just passed me. I could have done it without getting an electrical permit and having the inspection, but for legal and insurance reasons decided do spend the $30 bucks for the permit and verified w/an inspector what I wanted to do before buying anything. I also ran a 15 amp 120V circuit for the garage and another outlet in the furnace room. Pretty soon I'm not going to have any excuses for not working in the garage on my project!! If at all possible I would recommend getting a 240 Volt unit (vertical tank). BTW - the Husky is made by Campbell-Hausfeld and I could tell no difference (other than color) between them. Husky is about 20-30 bucks less, but every once in a while Home Depot has the no interest for one year deal on purchases over xxx $'s and that's when I bought mine. I have a Craftsman/Coleman/Porter Cable (they're all SOOHADOTO) oil-less unit that I intend to use only to supply extra air when painting to a hood/suit that I will fabricate (want to make sure I have enough volume). This thing is LOUD - don't get one. Whatever you get - 120 or 240 get a pump that uses oil - you'll be glad you did - quiet and longevity at a slightly higher price. JMHO

No answer for you, but I'd consider checking a Mustang or Chevy site - they have T5's too - and a lot more people tricking their machines...

I'm a BIG fan of tall sidewalls for the rear on high HP cars. I'm 48 and prefer to have springs and bars appropriate for good handling, but would only go 16" rims on the front, and as small as would clear rear disks on the back. Much better ride and much easier to control when autocrossing. When launching, the tall 'walls help a lot. Been running 16's on my 280 ZXT and ride is nothing to brag about and doesn't 'hook as well as the 15's I had before on launch. Feels like it's on rails w/the F1 steels, but would tradea little for ride comfort (makes my cd changer skip too much as compared to the GSC's I had on before, but wore out WAY too soon). I agree w/lower rear spring rate a bit, but would get a bigger rear bar to provide same total effective spring rate in cornering. Just my .02.... Love your videos, and eventually my '75 conversion may hope to match. (I agree with you that I don't want flares in any way shape or form) Brad

I have an '83 Turbo and it came w/a 3.54

Hmmm...Penisport wheels - I think I'll let someone else take a whack at 'em...

The Buick V-6 was based on the 215 Aluminum engine. I wouldn't be suprized if the mounts for both are the same. - get pics from Scottie-GNZ or go to his site and see if he has some pics of the mounts. For that matter, there might be others in the non-L6 board that my have pics.....

I believe Moon is the original manufacturer of a 4x2 Weber manifold for the SBC. If i remember correctly, it was for sidedrafts and was kind of like a cross-ram. Rather than Webers - how about TWN Throttle-Bodies? This should be sweet. If I recall Tull systems did a '55 or '57 Chevy with this setup....

When I got my T3/T4 hybrid I did not even consider non-water-cooled.

I wonder if the knock sensor will work w/the P90A head? It sure is a lot quieter...

It is my understanding that when GM wen tto the PCM that it was software programmable - not reliant on hardware anymore. OBDII may have some limitaiton built in that the first two years of the PCM did not.... How close am I on this guys?

One possible alternative is a dual 4 bbl manifold and using a couple of Holley 390 CFM carbs. I personally like this better than the idea of small primaries/big secondaries because of fuel distribution issues. W/the 2 small 4's you get pretty even distribution front to rear and when all 4 ~equal size barrels open it gets even better! Best of all would be FI, but everyone has beat that horse.... BTW Chrysler Tri-Power setups on teh Trans-Am Cudas/Challegeres and the 440 six-packs were vacuum operated. A single 4 bbl got better mileage/power though (Ask Dick Landy who had a purple Challenger 440 6Pk convertible). Brad

JohnC: I may be wrong, but in all the mags/articles I've read a 15X7 wheel is actually 8" wide (bead seat on each side). If this is true, wouldn't 0 offset provide 4" backspacing? If you wanted 3.5" backspacing you would need .5" of negative offset. In case any of you tend to get confused by positive/negative offset, I manage to keep it straight by remembering that front wheel drive cars almost always have POSitive offset (the plane of the hub face moved toward outside of wheel). This goes along with my consideration of front wheel drive cars as Pieces Of Sh*t, because I haven't had/driven one I liked the handling or maintenance requirements on (I keep cars a long time and try to treat them well). Hoping to be enlightened.... Brad

I don't believe there are any in the wiring harness anywhere.

What wire are you using? It had better be .023 - .030 will carry/allow too much current. Try a little more stickout and if that isn't enough go to positive polarity also. Do at most 1 inch and then skip ~4-6 inches then when finished w/fist pass keep making more 'till filled in.

mMy understanding is thet the 700 R4(4L60E) is a Trubo 350 w/overdrive and the 4L80E is a Turbo 400 w/overdrive. Separate 1st gear clutches are one big advantage I believe.... You're right - they're expensive, but for what I want do thisis what I want also (as stated in the past). Will keep this thread in mind and keep watching it for info.... Brad

With stock cam I'd go 650 DP. If yo're gonna change it - 750... Your gearing is short so I would think about changing cam... JMHO Brad

Aerodynamically you are way ahead on the 280 ZX bodystyle. Weight-wise you'll be about the same. Weight distribution will not be as good because there is no setback on the engine. This can be alleviated somewhat by going w/the LS1 (if you can mount it) and putting the battery in back. Ask Ross C what he thinks of his. I have an '83 ZXT and I'm building a '75 280 Hybrid. I like this body style better. Whatever floats your boat is the best choice for you!

Electromotive is probably the least expensive...

Okay, since no-one else has volunteered, I'll try and stick it out as long as I can... Wonder if it'll satisfy her.... Brad

Hi Guys! Been away while and saw this one.... Who makes the best 'screen? Thanks, Brad

Have you ever seen what a pig can do to the underside of a car? You DO want to avoid them...

The LT5 engine came in the ZR1 Corvette 1989 to 1995. Originally around 375 - 390 HP in 1994 went to 425. Lotus designed heads and block manufactured my Mercury Marine. Had individual intake runners for each intake with a butterly on one of them for low speed torque. The 'Valet' mode wouldn't open the 2nd runner at all.

I'd say it's a wash from the standpoint of torque applied in the rev range. That is assuming a 'flat' torque curve within the given rpm range. Which one for the street? - the 339 would do it for me - better low end torque (below the 3000 rpm point). Back when NASCAR had both small blocks and big block engines (about the same hp)- the small blocks ruled the small tracks 'cause they got the jump on the big blocks out of the corners. The big blocks ruled on the longer tracks (longer straightaways). Apply this logic to the questions above. And no, I don't have a way of viewing Circle Track magazine.

Dp351zcar: C4 refers to 4th generation Corvette...

JTR (Stealth Conversions has a right angle adapter for those of us Turbo owners w/a T5 tranny - it has a .66/1 reduction in it. This is pretty close to what is needed to set it on KPH and read true - slightly taller tires would probably get you the rest of the way.... brad