Brad-ManQ45

You're my hero....

Basically it sounds like if it meets the Snell and DOT tests then whatever floats my boat - I suspect lightness, ventilation and ability to have speakers will guide the decision... Thanks guys! Brad

I'm thinking of gettin a Suxuki SV650 - naked. Thisis not for commuting, but for going around in a group of other friends (and not hot-dogging - this ain't the bike for that). I've been out of motocycles for close to 28 years and know there are a lot more manufacturers out there (Used to have a Bell full coverage). I know about certifications, but would like to know where to go to find honest appraisals of the different helmets. TIA, Brad

Beautiful Frank!

3.54

I had no doubt that it was TIG, just wanted to dispute the "ugly" part of the comments. MIG doesn't HAVE to be ugly, you just need to practice and adjust to the machine and its' capacities. Hey Mitch - I've got a Miller 175 too! Haven't used it yet (wiring garage this weekend - got put on hold by honey - do's). Then the rotisserrie. All my welding in class this year was stick and MIG - the MIG on big Lincoln machines w/separate wirefeeder. Loved it when jerks would monkey w/the settings between classes (noone supposed to be in there) - a little tweek made a BIG difference. Machine to machine made a difference also. As hard as stick was with TWO hands to steady the stick, I can just imagine TIG, and would have to agree on right to left for right handers - pulling. I really DO like seeing the puddle as much as possible. After I got pretty good w/stick they turned me loose on the MIG and once I adjusted my speed and caught on to adjusting the amps and wirespeed, I was pretty proud of (some) of the welds the first 4 hour class. This got a lot more consistent the next 4 weeks. OK that's enough, jusat wanted to offer some tips to those MIG'ing from someone who just got out of classes and knew NOTHING going in - if I can do it ANYONE can. I would like to mention the Hobart Welding Talk forum as an excellent source of info for people starting out - it helped me while I was in classes. Hobart and Miller are made on the same assembly lines for those that don't know... Hobart Welding Talk Keep up the GOOD welding! brad

I haven't had a chance to read all of the links Grumpyvette has in his message yet (THANKS), but I seem to recall in all my readings (Hugh MacInnes, I think) that a single plane manifold will work better than a dual plane. If you were gonna do the modify route rather than the - dare I say it - Stealth - I believe I'd use a single plane. Just my .02

Just get an adapter from MOMO. The wheels are all the same bolt pattern, they just use a different adapter - same as Nardi and Personal.

FWIW - your lowest setting is probably as low as the output can go on your machine. What size wire are you using? (I hope .023) Try adjusting your wire speed and add a little stickout to get the heat down and you should be ok.

FWIW - not much I'm sure - I will have to disagree with some of you who say mig can't look as good as tig. I have examples in my garage from the class I took(T, butt and lap) that look like the "stack of dimes". I WILL agree that the bead will tend to be somewhat bigger. Having control over both current and wirespeed helps. I personally prefer to pull when welding flat and go from left to right. It's a little harder to see where you're going, but the benefits of the better view of the puddle outweigh this. As I will be welding on a rotisserie, I will be flat as much as possible. When I finally get a digital camera, I'll take some pictures.... I chose MIG because I will never be welding thin aluminum - a trailer mayber, but mostly body panels and tubing. I started having a blast in class when my welds started looking decent consistently - getting the settings on the machine right was a BIG factor.

I like the Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid. Brake Fluid Thread

From an Aerodynamics standpoint, I would think you are better off using FWD wheels and adapters. (Only a factor for those with the need AND $$$$ to pay for the tickets) Any thoughts here?

Verrrry Nice! Someday...

NICE Frank! What yellow is that?

The flange is the only thing that needs to change for T/3 or T/4 Turbine. This would allow the T/3 guys to go to external wastegate if they want - or just block off the wastegate port until they ARE ready to. (a cheap .02) Brad

Try Crower.com. They have engine kits w/crank/rods/pistons/pins and bearings. I'm SURE they'd do right by you. I'm probably going this route myself. Brad

My paint store guy said use DP48 (White primer), so the primer-surfacer, then go back over it w/DP48 to lock in the filler coat. Does this sound ok? RacerX - any comments from the guru?

kewl Mike! I'm not ready yet, but will be a customer in the future... Rotisserie, body work, suspension back on and then brakes!

I believe I would have to side w/JamieT on this. Only one small modificaton - make sure the raised portion will clear the Stealth Ram if possible. Now I know what you may be thinking, and I'm not sure it can be done because I don't HAVE one, and don't even HAVE an engine yet, but I'll BUY one and let it be used for measuring. Possibly keep the same PROPORTIONS of the raised part of the hood, but BIGGER to clear. It would have to be a bit wider (how much?) and a bit taller (how much?)... I like a sleeper look also - although I may wind up putting some vents in later - like MSA's hood for getting air out from under the hood. In "just eyeballing" the Stealth Ram, It doesn't look like it would be much taller than a high rise dual-plane w/3" aircleaner, but maybe I'm wrong...Have been before, will be again. Opinions????

I contacted Dan to get one and he believes he has one left... I hope so. I'm gonna make SURE I soak the HELL out of everything SEVERAL times w/penetrating oil before I try this...

According to my Chilton's manual ('70 to '86), '75 & up driveshaft universals cannot be replaced. My Clymer's for the 280 ZX's says the same thing about these driveshafts.

I have always maintained that the engine was the last part of the car to be done in my project. It will be as, if not more expensive that all the rest put together. The % of stock parts on the car will be relatively small...

Although I had a '72 Mustang CJ for 14 years, I always liked the looks of the '70 and '71 Challengers. Later AMX's were distinctive too.

I had a '72 351 CJ - Q code - same as the 428 CJ's. This was the prettiest/baddest small block engine Ford made (the Cleveland had the water crossover cast into the block and just used a plate to cover the timing chain - real clean, and the aluminum valve covers - like used on the Boss 302's capperd it off well). Virtually the same weight as a 351W. I never lacked for torque in my Mustang - even after installing a Torker intake and a 700 DP. My brother-inlaw had a '72 454 'Vette and (before I did anything to the engine) I'd take him to 100, where he started to pull up on me (he had a 3.08 and I had a 3.25 rear gear). A great combo would be a 351 block and the Cleveland heads - the oiling system is much better. Minor mods to head gaskets and possibly drill a few holes and you could be screamin'. Mounts are same as 289/302 for the Cleveland. I I had one or could get one cheap I'd certainly do it! The one problem, which could be corrected w/restrictors was the oiling system - too much went to cam.

3" would be too big for an NA car - would probably resonate like all get-out. A lot of NA people prefer 2.25" - not much HP loss, better low end and much quieter. Do you HAVE to put one on now?