Brad-ManQ45

I sent Dan a Money order on 6/8/2002 and haven't heard word one from him. I notified him it was on it's way the day I sent it, so he must have been expecting it. Don't know what's up, but not even the courtesy of a return email... And this after he upped the price!

Stealth conversions has a right angle drive adapter for the T-5 transmission. If you are using one of those, it has a .66/1 ratio - set it to Km mode and you get the 3rd digit - but you're off by about 4%....

Here's a link to an article on the Miller site for welding. I remembered this when I read it from a tip I got from the Welding Talk forum on the Hobart site, but when welding thin metal such as car bodies (GMAW), us EP setting, not EN - less heat buildup in the metal being welded.... Miller Welding Article Hope this helps guys! Brad

for some reason I can't use that link...

Pete - not that anyone on this board is a purist, but why not try the vacuum pump from a 280ZX Turbo? I've got 175000 miles on mine w/no problems. I could see going w/a larger canister.

NICE! What size weels/tires and offset/backspacing are you using to fill out the ZG flares? I have been considering them, as I don't like any of the steel ones I have seen and don't want to bond fiberglass.

Good news Mike! Please keep us informed... Brad

I believe that the hotter air acts like a recent wax-job on a private plane only not to the degree the wax job does - makes the vehicle "slipperier". The hotter air (from black) radiating off of the car forms a small (I don't want to call it a barrier) buffer for airflow - the airstream instead of hitting the solid coating of the car hits the buffer of air which is less dense, rendering the car slipperier... Yet another tongue-in-cheek response.... Brad

Daniel Webster once said "The majority of people are wrong the majority of times". My father likes to paraphrase this by saying "The masses are asses" (he is a man of few words and uses the phrase "sh*t for brains" instead of the paraphrase). I tend to agree with him and others on this thread who believe there are too many people who would rather let someone else do their thinking for them, or find the process too fatiguing. For the terminally stupid, I had high hopes for the process of natural selection, but the democrats want to protect their powerbase, and these people form a significant part of it - the rest fall in the above categories. Blondes are sometimes not good-looking enough to attract a smarter man. Our only hope is to legalize drugs in the hopes they'll all be too blasted to breed, or at least help the process of natural selection along by weeding out the ones that are alive only because the high cost of their habit prevents them from doing too much. If I have offended anyone in any way - maybe YOU'RE stupid - so accept my apologies. This has been a tongue-in-cheek response to previously posted messages. The only statements I will admit to as truth are the ones about my father and the democrats. Brad

FYI guys - We seem to have a terminology issue here. A BOV (Blow Off Valve) vents the intake manifold to atmosphere to avoid overboost situations. some manuals refer to it as an 'Emergency Relief Valve'. What we are talking about here is a Compressor By-Pass Valve - designed with the purpose of keeping the turbo from spooling down rapidly because the throttle is closed and the air pumping out of the turbo backs up and slows the unit down. It does this by routing the air stacked up in front of the throttle plate (after the compressor) and routing it to just in front of the compressor. Since you're not on the throttle, the temperature increase is of no significance, but the effect when you get back on the throttle is nothing short of miraculous! It seems every so often people start mis-applying the terms. Everyone that has said the air from the valve needs to get routed to in front of the turbo after the mass air sensor is correct, otherwise the sensor is telling the engine you are USING the air being dumped and run too rich. One of the reasons for using one of these is because we want to make our cars as driveable and responsive as possible. Failing to duct the air back properly in my mind means the effort is half wasted. JMHO, Brad

You're my hero....

Basically it sounds like if it meets the Snell and DOT tests then whatever floats my boat - I suspect lightness, ventilation and ability to have speakers will guide the decision... Thanks guys! Brad

I'm thinking of gettin a Suxuki SV650 - naked. Thisis not for commuting, but for going around in a group of other friends (and not hot-dogging - this ain't the bike for that). I've been out of motocycles for close to 28 years and know there are a lot more manufacturers out there (Used to have a Bell full coverage). I know about certifications, but would like to know where to go to find honest appraisals of the different helmets. TIA, Brad

Beautiful Frank!

3.54

I had no doubt that it was TIG, just wanted to dispute the "ugly" part of the comments. MIG doesn't HAVE to be ugly, you just need to practice and adjust to the machine and its' capacities. Hey Mitch - I've got a Miller 175 too! Haven't used it yet (wiring garage this weekend - got put on hold by honey - do's). Then the rotisserrie. All my welding in class this year was stick and MIG - the MIG on big Lincoln machines w/separate wirefeeder. Loved it when jerks would monkey w/the settings between classes (noone supposed to be in there) - a little tweek made a BIG difference. Machine to machine made a difference also. As hard as stick was with TWO hands to steady the stick, I can just imagine TIG, and would have to agree on right to left for right handers - pulling. I really DO like seeing the puddle as much as possible. After I got pretty good w/stick they turned me loose on the MIG and once I adjusted my speed and caught on to adjusting the amps and wirespeed, I was pretty proud of (some) of the welds the first 4 hour class. This got a lot more consistent the next 4 weeks. OK that's enough, jusat wanted to offer some tips to those MIG'ing from someone who just got out of classes and knew NOTHING going in - if I can do it ANYONE can. I would like to mention the Hobart Welding Talk forum as an excellent source of info for people starting out - it helped me while I was in classes. Hobart and Miller are made on the same assembly lines for those that don't know... Hobart Welding Talk Keep up the GOOD welding! brad

I haven't had a chance to read all of the links Grumpyvette has in his message yet (THANKS), but I seem to recall in all my readings (Hugh MacInnes, I think) that a single plane manifold will work better than a dual plane. If you were gonna do the modify route rather than the - dare I say it - Stealth - I believe I'd use a single plane. Just my .02

Just get an adapter from MOMO. The wheels are all the same bolt pattern, they just use a different adapter - same as Nardi and Personal.

FWIW - your lowest setting is probably as low as the output can go on your machine. What size wire are you using? (I hope .023) Try adjusting your wire speed and add a little stickout to get the heat down and you should be ok.

FWIW - not much I'm sure - I will have to disagree with some of you who say mig can't look as good as tig. I have examples in my garage from the class I took(T, butt and lap) that look like the "stack of dimes". I WILL agree that the bead will tend to be somewhat bigger. Having control over both current and wirespeed helps. I personally prefer to pull when welding flat and go from left to right. It's a little harder to see where you're going, but the benefits of the better view of the puddle outweigh this. As I will be welding on a rotisserie, I will be flat as much as possible. When I finally get a digital camera, I'll take some pictures.... I chose MIG because I will never be welding thin aluminum - a trailer mayber, but mostly body panels and tubing. I started having a blast in class when my welds started looking decent consistently - getting the settings on the machine right was a BIG factor.

I like the Ford Heavy Duty brake fluid. Brake Fluid Thread

From an Aerodynamics standpoint, I would think you are better off using FWD wheels and adapters. (Only a factor for those with the need AND $$$$ to pay for the tickets) Any thoughts here?

Verrrry Nice! Someday...

NICE Frank! What yellow is that?

The flange is the only thing that needs to change for T/3 or T/4 Turbine. This would allow the T/3 guys to go to external wastegate if they want - or just block off the wastegate port until they ARE ready to. (a cheap .02) Brad