Brad-ManQ45

Sorry I didn't open this post sooner, and sorry about the baby. We've had our share of problems too - leukemia (my brother didn't make it) and another brother gone. Appears as though she's a fighter - attitude counts! I will be thinking about ya'll... Brad

I have an '83 ZXT 5 speed. Anything that fits a Mustang will work. Hurst comes to mind. If youre not turbo'd why the T5 when the later (280 ZX na) 5 speed has better ratios and smoothness?

Congrats James! I know you're gonna love it... Keep us appraised of the progress...

I just took off the mounts themselves, but got hasty and ripped into the "stiffening bracket in a couple of places. I will be putting in a 4l80E and don't know if I will need to remove this or not....

Dan - you're using a Suzuki gas tank aren't you? What size is that tank? I was thinking of using 2 to get some range out of mine and put the exhaust where you are. Cust up a junker and get the gas lid, etc., or possibly recess the LeMans style gas caps...

I beleive the 10:1 ratio in one of the responses idincated a RICH condition - 10 parts air to 1 part fuel. 14.6 - stoichiometric is 14.6 parts air to 1 part fuel. This is for gasoline w/o oxygenates. Lean would be MORE parts air to 1 part fuel....

I would use one 3" pipe - just like I did on my '83ZXT. I used a Dynomax Muffler - straight through 3" oval cannister ~19" long. This keep the car quiet - but that's w/a turbo ahead (and 3" cat). You will probably need the biggest muffler you can get for the 383. One downside, especially if you are NOT going to have a cat is resonance - big pipes can cause problems here. For a normally aspirated 2.4-3.1 litre engine not much need to go over 2.5" unless turbo'd. A lot of people are happier w/2.25" for na cars - better low end and quieter/weighs less. Stock 280 ZXT's had ~2 3/8's"...

Harbor Freight moved into the Atlanta market about 6 months ago, and I only discovered them about a month ago. They have been running sales almost continuously going after Northern's business. I have put close to a grand in the stuff they have had ON SALE for anywhere from 33 to 50% off! In the process I learned a trick for getting the spouse to not complain about the money spent, which is probably the best advice/tip I could give to any of you. I took her for her favorite breakfast/brunch, then went to Harbor Freight. When I got there I gave her 1/2 the ads that I had cut out, showing prices before/sale and explained what they each were for. After we were through (she had picked up a pair of sissors for herself), I went outside to enjoy the sun and get out of the unairconditioned store (broken). When she came out she said "Boy - we saved a lot of money!" Now truth be known, I will NEVER understand the female mind, and believe that any man that does is really F*^#&d in the head . I have been married for 19 years and STILL don't have a clue - but I'm gonna try this again!

The Starion ESI-R's and Conquest TSI's all had Limited Slip rearends. I had an '87 that was a blast out in El Paso, Albuquerque and Austin.

I have an '83 ZXT and a '75. I asked the Nissan mechanic working on my ZX what the difference between fuel pumps between them was and he said "only that the Turbo Pump operated at two voltages dependant upon the engines current need" and both could supply the same amount of fuel at the same pressures. Don't know that he was right or not, but he had a ZXT also and loves the cars, gave 'em up w/family on the way....

I'm in for dash and console. Half and Half ok, but the bucks aren't major - whatever everyone else decides I guess. If someone had the G-Nose pieces I'd like to get those too. Waiting to hear prices on fenders and hood! brad

Starion/Conquest Auto Trans Swap Info This should have you covered.... Brad

Excellent news! We will all be waiting to hear how it goes for you. The TEC3 is on my short list.... Brad

I have been running my '83 ZXT w/10-12 lbs w/occasion spike to 15 w/a T3/T4 Hybrid for better than 40000 miles now. No intercooler, but 3" cat and exhaust (stock downpipe though). Car has maxed the stock injectors and in lower gears I have to watch it to keep traction! Surprized a few Mustangs/Camaros/Firebirds - '82 Vette owners knew this car would beat them STOCK. New 'vette owners have had their eyes opened if they were a bit sloppy/slow. I can't seem to bring myself to sell the car even though I am starting on my '75 V8z....

Been gone a while - actually too pooped to surf. Have run electrical for 220 and e3xtra outlets in garage, and put in pipes for compressor in basement to supply air for garage/workshop in basement. A good site for anyone who is going to put in an air supply system: Air Line System Thanks RacerX for your comments and observations. Will be getting a 10CFM @ 90 psi min compressor (240V). Haven't decided the make yet, thought Husky at Home Depot looks good for the money I bet the engine pump and motor aren't the greatest. Ingersoll-Rand has one that looks good for a bit more...

Last fall I was there aand there were no good fenders to be had. I bought the patch panels and will weld.

Also, are you sure your wastegate actuator doesn't have the wastegate open partially?

Everyone should also have a skyhook...

Whatever you do - make sure the prototypical "glasspack" type muffler is not involeved. These have WAY too much restriction in them. Use the newer turbo/race mufflers. I personally do not think much of the Flowmasters for turbo cars, but the younger crowd tolerates noise better than I EVER have so this is just my own opionion as far as SOUND is concerened. As far a PERFORMANCE is concerned, I believe that every unbiased article ever written about mufflers has shown that on turbo cars, the turbo style mufflers from DynoMax (SuperTurbo/Ultraflow/Race) produced better times/acceleration. I guess it boils down to whether you want to SOUND fast or BE fast...

NO model #'s mentioned in the manual (new) that I got, just the fact that the Modine replacement was less expensive... When I do mine, I'll goGriffen/Howe just because I feel Mike ripped me for the $20 - once again - aside from a few pictures, this was the only change in the manual, and I feel he misrepresented the content changes to me. Screw me once, shame on you, screw me twice....

RacerX (and others too!) I have been mucking along a year or two w/a singlestage 6 hp 25 gal. compressor, and now am getting to the needlescaler/sandblasting/primer/paint stage of my operation. Since I am probably going to fabricate my own fresh air system, I am considering using this compressor (oilless) to feed myself air, and get another compressor (240V 1 Phase to put in my basement and feed the woodshop and the garage both. My questions revolve particularly around painting w/HPLV and epoxy primers and 2 part paint systems. What CFM/PSI requirements should I be looking for for primer/painting? I'm asking this before actually buying any painting books because I will be using POR-15 on the underside first and will be needing higher cfm when using some of the tools I have. TIA Brad

Thanks Grumpyvette - it sure is nice having someone that KNOWS, but knows where to find info as well as make it easy to understand!

60's Hemis had solid lifter, in '70 they put hydraulic lifters in 'em and a lot of the street racers were running more consistently - seems that even racers can be lazy...

I was calling Mike Knell about the right angle drive adapter for the T5 and told him I had one of his manuals from '97, and he said there was a revised manual out. I asked what the changes wwere and he said 'lots' - for instance about radiators. The only change was some pictures and mention of a Modine unit that was a reproduction of the v-6 4.3 unit. Still had the same errors (right vs left side for the charcoal cannister picture) and confusing explanation of backspacing/offset and fitting wheels/tires to the Z. Could not see any other changes. Even though he only charged me $20 total, I don't feel this was a cool deal...

Hey Grumpyvette - what are the steps to go to a distributorless ignition as far as the pre-LT1 blocks go? Just use a smaller distributor and don't use it for ignition - only to turn the oil pump? I am considering a DART or World Products block, but don't believe they make one for replacing an LT1/LS1/LS6. Plug the distributor hole up and go dry sump would be expensive, but w/turocharging might provide some packaging options....