Brad-ManQ45

Excellent news! We will all be waiting to hear how it goes for you. The TEC3 is on my short list.... Brad

I have been running my '83 ZXT w/10-12 lbs w/occasion spike to 15 w/a T3/T4 Hybrid for better than 40000 miles now. No intercooler, but 3" cat and exhaust (stock downpipe though). Car has maxed the stock injectors and in lower gears I have to watch it to keep traction! Surprized a few Mustangs/Camaros/Firebirds - '82 Vette owners knew this car would beat them STOCK. New 'vette owners have had their eyes opened if they were a bit sloppy/slow. I can't seem to bring myself to sell the car even though I am starting on my '75 V8z....

Been gone a while - actually too pooped to surf. Have run electrical for 220 and e3xtra outlets in garage, and put in pipes for compressor in basement to supply air for garage/workshop in basement. A good site for anyone who is going to put in an air supply system: Air Line System Thanks RacerX for your comments and observations. Will be getting a 10CFM @ 90 psi min compressor (240V). Haven't decided the make yet, thought Husky at Home Depot looks good for the money I bet the engine pump and motor aren't the greatest. Ingersoll-Rand has one that looks good for a bit more...

Last fall I was there aand there were no good fenders to be had. I bought the patch panels and will weld.

Also, are you sure your wastegate actuator doesn't have the wastegate open partially?

Everyone should also have a skyhook...

Whatever you do - make sure the prototypical "glasspack" type muffler is not involeved. These have WAY too much restriction in them. Use the newer turbo/race mufflers. I personally do not think much of the Flowmasters for turbo cars, but the younger crowd tolerates noise better than I EVER have so this is just my own opionion as far as SOUND is concerened. As far a PERFORMANCE is concerned, I believe that every unbiased article ever written about mufflers has shown that on turbo cars, the turbo style mufflers from DynoMax (SuperTurbo/Ultraflow/Race) produced better times/acceleration. I guess it boils down to whether you want to SOUND fast or BE fast...

NO model #'s mentioned in the manual (new) that I got, just the fact that the Modine replacement was less expensive... When I do mine, I'll goGriffen/Howe just because I feel Mike ripped me for the $20 - once again - aside from a few pictures, this was the only change in the manual, and I feel he misrepresented the content changes to me. Screw me once, shame on you, screw me twice....

RacerX (and others too!) I have been mucking along a year or two w/a singlestage 6 hp 25 gal. compressor, and now am getting to the needlescaler/sandblasting/primer/paint stage of my operation. Since I am probably going to fabricate my own fresh air system, I am considering using this compressor (oilless) to feed myself air, and get another compressor (240V 1 Phase to put in my basement and feed the woodshop and the garage both. My questions revolve particularly around painting w/HPLV and epoxy primers and 2 part paint systems. What CFM/PSI requirements should I be looking for for primer/painting? I'm asking this before actually buying any painting books because I will be using POR-15 on the underside first and will be needing higher cfm when using some of the tools I have. TIA Brad

Thanks Grumpyvette - it sure is nice having someone that KNOWS, but knows where to find info as well as make it easy to understand!

60's Hemis had solid lifter, in '70 they put hydraulic lifters in 'em and a lot of the street racers were running more consistently - seems that even racers can be lazy...

I was calling Mike Knell about the right angle drive adapter for the T5 and told him I had one of his manuals from '97, and he said there was a revised manual out. I asked what the changes wwere and he said 'lots' - for instance about radiators. The only change was some pictures and mention of a Modine unit that was a reproduction of the v-6 4.3 unit. Still had the same errors (right vs left side for the charcoal cannister picture) and confusing explanation of backspacing/offset and fitting wheels/tires to the Z. Could not see any other changes. Even though he only charged me $20 total, I don't feel this was a cool deal...

Hey Grumpyvette - what are the steps to go to a distributorless ignition as far as the pre-LT1 blocks go? Just use a smaller distributor and don't use it for ignition - only to turn the oil pump? I am considering a DART or World Products block, but don't believe they make one for replacing an LT1/LS1/LS6. Plug the distributor hole up and go dry sump would be expensive, but w/turocharging might provide some packaging options....

This is where I ordered my welder from: Central Welding Supply Best prices I have found. I've built engines and replaced 'em and hot-rodded 'em since the late 60's and helped my brother on a ground-up Datsun 1600 short windshield roadster. I chose to do a ground-up because I always wanted to one of my own, and wanted to learn to weld. The satisfaction of knowing that I control the state of everything in the car (and how it will turn out) is a real plus for me. If it was only about the time/money relationship, I could have waited and gotten a West Coast car (possibly already converted) and saved both. For me though, the journey and experiences along the way count a lot toward how much I will enjoy the destination. If you are mechanically inclined, then there is NOTHING that can stop you other than your own lack of commitment (and resources - and you may have hidden sources of these!).

FWIW - my welding instructor said he did a racer's head (1/4 miler) once that had cracked - right after he had speant megabucks on porting etc.... Some of the guys at the VoTech school - teachers AND students, knew exactly who he was talking about - the guy still brags to this day about our instructor saving his head. He pre-heated, brazed and cooled down VERRRRYYY slowly (had heated sand in over and buried the head in it! He seems to think that the slow cooling process after the weld is critical (aligning the crystalline structure). I've seen the artistry (and ease) that is this guy's trademark, and his commitment to nothing sloppy, so I pay attention when he drops any suggestions..... This was 4 years ago and the racer is still using those heads

Beware the lumbar support if you are rear ended! I had a Conquest and the metal plate did a number on my lower back. I took the stock seats out of my '83 ZXT and put in FloFit seats so I could have an air bladder type lumbar adjustment. They barely fit and I had to alter the passenger side bracket to get the seat closer to the trans tunnel. Lost about 1" headroom (missed a lot on bumpy roads), but WAY comfortable. HMMM - wonder if I can shoehorn 'em into my '75?

Someone (Mike I think) has a T56 and 3.54's and he said he has to be doing 75 to get into 6th. Now I do believe he has a pretty stout cam. .5 final gear? I thought .72/.60 was stock and didn't know another was available - no diff.... Sounds like your cam isn't as wild as Mikes, and the EFI certainly makes a diff (he has a carb I believe). All said and done though, if you DO have a .5 you'd probably be bettor off w/a 3.54 or 3.7. Even w/ a .60, unless you do a lot of high speed driving in an area that has few gendarmes, you'd still probably be better off w/the 3.54 or maybe higher. Anyone think differently?

... my wife said she'd rather remodel the kitchen...

On turbo engines, works great in the intercooler...

I have an Ultraflow - 3" center/center w/20" long oval case. This is on an '83 ZXT. Do they still make this one, and if so, what is the part #? Thanks, Brad

Keep in mind that that hood bulge also acts as a stiffener for the hood...

According to my Consumer Review buyeres guides form '90 an d'91, all Q45's had Limited slip. I know that my '94 Q45a has it. If my basement weren't in such a mess from a broken water heate, I might have found my '93 and '95 volumes.

This time I can see all of the pics - go figure!

Unless I'm wrong (won't be the first time), If you are willing to buy pistons and have the block bored and the rotating assembly balanced, you can have your 327. I doubt very seriously that GM made the block casting water passages larger for the 307 vs the 327/350 - they probably just bored the cylinders smaller. 3.88" bore vs. 4.00". smame stroke as the 327. You could truly have a fresh 327! All it would take is money. Of course you'd probably want different heads, cam etc.

Hey Denny - I tried to email you but got the message back. Can you update your profile so I don't have to use this site to continue a dialog? Brad