AK-Z

remember to keep the throw out bearing with the transmission. i.e. TOB has to match tranny. And might be wise to swap the speedo gear as well. the gear has to match the diff to give somewhat accurate speed.

sweet thanks

I have to agree. They are usually junk because of the owners, not the manufacturers.

Ford was contracted to produce "jeeps" during WW2 because the military demand was so high. (souce Fifth Gear ep:14x6) The wiki does state anything about which engine they use and when the engine was produced. I'm going to take a wild guess here, and think they had L4 in there, thats why they could meet the torque requirements, that and the demand for steel was so high back then. Trying to steer this thread back to the original topic/question. All I've read on here so far is that everyone is talking about the "car" not the engine. http://www.allpar.com/mopar/40.html

Oh. Stupid me I was referring to the headlights. Sorry about that.

Does the yamaha r1 2007 have both hi and low for both sides?

Thats what their speedos are saying(wheel speed). They are usually hitting about 50-70 mph chassis speed (speed just after apex).

I haven't cracked open my l28/auto before. I guess I check On my KA/auto. the spacers was on the torque converter side of the setup, but that has a "auto pilot bushing", unlike the l28.

billboards going sideways lol

apexcone has some decent ones for like $150 new on their site and hi/low with single bulb.

driving behavior: enter wide if possible throttle steer just before the apex, if you have enough torque.

I don't think that would be the issue normally. Doesn't hurt to replace it. its like $5 PS. pilot bushing is the same for all Zs (240z-350z) and 240sx.

the weather stripping that holds the glass, is suppose to slide out (with a little grunt) through the closest to the door. (at least on the 280z) you have to peel the outter stripping from the frame, and there should be some screws and then pull the metal bracket on the door side. Could be different on the 240z judging by the diagram shown.

For those who haven't jumped on this deal. "THIS" Deal is over, but they posted another deal on pretty much the same seats. http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Search?catalogId=10101&storeId=10101&sku=racing+seats Now does anyone have another discount code? Edit: Don't use safari on their site. code: SAVENOW = free shipping

measure engine height and oil pan location before trying it first

I don't think you understood me in my last post. There is no drive line in a 944 in order for this to fit, the engine would have to pretty much sit inside the car. I'm sure you can somehow fit a different transmission, but I'm sure that you would have to modify the bellhousing to have it fit on the engine. And porsche parts are expensive, even for the lower class porsches http://www.lambolounge.com/Chassis/Transmission/5000/5000.asp

haha

GOOGLE WHEEL BASES! I have to correct myself. there are no U joints, the tranny and diff is ONE unit. and bolts directly onto the engine.

1971 240z has a 5 speed? I thought they only had 4 speed. and that start looks like its for a automatic Haha its all stuff pretty much what all Z owner has

Which gtr? I got to sit in a gtr35 in korea

The engine would have to be moved to far forward to maintain have that balance. Don't confuse balance and lightness. and another thing you would have to consider is that fact that you would have to make the trans tunnel larger in the rear and IIRC there was no driveline to "extend" so you would be able to move the engine forward. the trans connected to the engine through a pare of U joints. and to have it fit, you would have to maintain the 944 wheelbase. I think thats why you don't see very (if at all) 944 engine swaps.

I would use a voltmeter on the main fuse connections and see how much amperage pull is happening. Do you have a aftermarket fuel pump? I've seen issues where it would popo the main fuse, because it wasn't grounded well.

I don't think thats possible inless you swap the whole rear suspension. IIRC the transmission is attached to the diff, not the engine. And I too. would like to know what you mean by "3.0" in the title.

Look at the radiator mount near the area where the bumper mounts are. If the front was skewed about a 1/8 of an inch, the spot factory spot weld should be damaged. If not then I think only the passenger side strut tower should the concern. Since the damage was so close to the firewall. I wouldn't worry "too" much

Leave everything in the packaging UNTILL you are ready to install. I've always had the "ooo new shiny thing, lets open it" mentality. Also lost a lot of part/tools that way. Or you can be organised