AK-Z

cubic inches? Its liters (think metric, remember japanese car) The L28 is considered a "truck" engine. IMO its stock for stock HP and reliability. There are reasons why piston rings and piston are design differently in NA and FI applications. SR = pretty much almost everything included (inless you get screwed or other reasons). engine, tranny, harnesses, computers (engine and tranny computers), most sensors, turbo (down pipe if you're lucky). and no computer tuning really needed. KA (turbo)= things he would need to get; KA engine/tranny (remember he doesn't have it), injectors, maf, manifold, turbo (and all thats needed for it), down pipe, harness/computer (included with engine), then he has to pay to get the computer tuned. Then he can wait for his internals to ware prematurly and have excessive blow-by down the road. then he has to replace with $$$ internals cope with the exessive ware. Oh and shipping all the individual parts. You might have to do that with an SR also, but from what I've read, you won't have to do that inless you want to hit over 300 HP. Not say for him to go one way or the other, just clarifying that what "may" seem to be cost effective, may not be down the road. I'm doing a KA-T build, myself. So don't think I'm hating on the KA.

KA blocks in 240sx were made in japan. KAs in other cars were made in mexico. I can confirm personally that a L series tranny will fit onto a KA block, but the clutch shield won't fit. You can always build a LZK hybrid stroked hybrid engine

It would be harder to initiate, but easier to control, once you get it sliding. idk if autos in a z has an overdrive gear, but if it does, it can be a PITA when your trying to initiate, but the longer wheel base fixes that a bit.

talk about thread un-buried Since I've been building my frame, in hind sight, I think its not as difficult as it may seem. But thats just in terms of getting it to work. having it go down the road straight, instead of crab walking is another story.

wow. I missed alot oh well. this thread isn't talking about a jeep swap anymore, so I'm no longer interested.

got you beat. going on 7 , but no one wants to ship to alaska

Wow. 220 views in one day. crazy

Not welded in yet. Just a test fit.

Expensive lesson learned Don't be showing off like a doucebag

Yeah, I mentioned that I was going to weld those in eventually . I hit a snag. I tried to test fit my front suspension and the top hat part won't clear. I didn't tack into account how wide, so its hitting the inner part of the frame. I'm going to have to cut it and weld more supports. I'm also going to gusset it too just to be safe.

How thick is that piece you're welding? If its anything over 16 gauge, I say to spot weld it. About 4 to hold it in place, then another set in between those, then again untill you get to about an inch between each welds, then spot weld next to a cold weld, overlaping just slightly, then go to the next cold weld and repeat until it looks like one bead. The point in doing this, is to distribute heat evenly and to weld as "cold" as possible so you don't have too much heat in one area, cause thermal expansion (heat budge/ warpage).

transmission/center diff eletronics . + traction control.

I don't think I have posted in the project forums before. some photo progress of my build Here are some photos from the last week. comments/opinions? I know I should of made it out of tubing, but I don't have to time or the $$$ to have it bent. I just want the car done at this point. There are some strut mount supports that I need to weld on before I can mount the front suspension.

Noooo. (Jeremy Clarkson) The horror.... the horror. I think the second one is a good candidate for a swap its going to be a PITA to get all the eletronics to work

My answer to your response Enjoy

i just might do that. but there is another reason i was asking about the headlights that'll be a surprise i will reveal after i'm done

touche

JDM red neck style . I think the blockiness doesn't match the rounded rear

Wow, you're late. I think this question has pretty much been answered.

Do you have the engine? Its easier to work with what you have than to make something you don't have work.

I would guess that the front wheel bearings would need to be replaced regularly, because when you run a setup like that. he probably just removed the half shaft portion, it puts more vertical torsional forces on the bearings without the support of the shafts. thats if he's running a stock front setup.

there is a reason why subaru uses a flat 4. if you want to bigger engine, a flat 6 out of a svx is a easier swap.

Yeah thats was what I was thinking of doing. Either that or fab one up. I'm so close to having a straight frame, so I think do the latter, instead of wasting my time

there is one for the "what now" commercials and the 240z is stripped

Question: How hard is it to remove the TC mount off of the original rails? I need to replace my rails with 2.5" square tubing and I don't want to spend the time fabbing new ones.