AK-Z

I would assume that from 250-300hp, you would have to have the motor rebuild with better parts, for reliability, on either engine.

Might want to check the ebrake pistons in the drum brakes.

You also have to consider the power/weight ratio. But I do agree. You will have your car up and running, with less headaches and downtime with a L28ET. PS. profanity is frowned upon by admins.

I bored the hole myself, on my drill press with a milling bit and had it balanced and resurfaced. the sheild; I too the top section of the KA sheild (auto comes in 2 pieces), cut the bottom of the L28 shield and welded it together and siliconed it to make sure its sealed where its suppose to be. I went with stock with the pressure plate and clutch, so I wouldn't see any surprises with the TOB not engaging or disengaging. I suggest keeping everything KA if possible. you'll save alot of time

the price of steel, has almost doubled for me, from like 4 or 5 months ago

everything bolts right up, except the dustshield and the l28 flywheel. the flywheel; the center hole needs to be bored out about 0.05 mm. the dust shield needs to be fabbed. the tranny will be rotated to the left about 10 degrees.

well. I'm making my mounts a little more complicated than I could make it. I'm working with all the metal that I have so might not, be what you expect and i want to make it as close to the engine, so I have more ground clearance.

well, technically, the only "true" fairlady, state side, were the first 240z. They came off the boat labeled fairlady, and Mr. K changed all the labels himself, knowing the american market at the time. But details, detail. I wouldn't think too much of it

IMO its easier, from what I can tell. I wouldn't know from experience, because I pulled the engine and tranny out of the car and then separated them. the KA was given to me with the tranny. What's you're setup going to be so i can be sure of what advice I can give. build thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=938601#post938601 EDIT: I think you're going to have to fab you own tranny mount. I am using a L28 5 speed behind my KA, so I can't help there. Reason is shipping anything heavy cost so much to alaska.

Ah. and the name nightmare isn't because of what you think. Its been my PITA for 7 years now. it my nightmare

Its has wheels and the engine is in (not done with the frame. I know I more supports ) I got a little impatient

Its not hard to make one. A (L) bracket on each side and a xmember that clears the oil pan. Then the actual mounts. You can use the old mounts on the original x-member for reference on dimensions. I have confirmed that its would fit. edit. I'll probably make one tomorrow and post pics in my build thread. Who wants me to make them one? (seriously, I need $$ for my build )

http://www.mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_240+260+280Z+parts

you can try to graph the whole top half and try to make a deck/trunck Now that would be something, but then yo would have to remove the rear seats.

Ive seen the same thing done with a couple of jacks. You also want to keep into account the oilpan sump location. Since is in the front, you might have an issue of it being to close to the main x-member. since, I assume you're going to make a tranny mount, you might be able to move the whole thing back an inch or 2 Also, you want to make the x-member that you are making to be removable in some way.

My drill press doesn't have a reverse . I drilled a hole in each one. It was scary to see the bold start to go in a little because of the rotation. used an easy out to get them out. one of them broke an easy out bit so I had to redrill it and us a bigger one.

Oh I forgot about that . I was just going to go down to the nissan dealer and see if they have some bolts part number: 3022e4100

haha. pretty ingenious, but not my problem. I have to MOVE my engine from my shed to my garage. positioning isn't my problem

oh, you can even use a piece of copper as a backing plate so it can give you some insurance if you might burn through.

You want some 1.5" x 2.5" tubing about 1/8th" think, about 2.5 feet (maybe 3 feet long. You want to make a new cross member with this. The length of the lower frame rails across is 25". I think you can scavenge the old mounts off of the original x member and use those, but if you need to make you own, the mount bolt holes are about 10mm wide. I would be building mine right now, but my dad is borrowing my engine hoist right now I'll post pics in my build thread, when I can get started on it.

don't use the link on the 1st post. The "deal" is still active. They just repost it on a new page, so the old address won't work. just search racing seats and you can find it.

I've been toying with the idea of having suicide lambo doors. It seems more reasonable to live with. Think about it, you want to move FORWARD when you exit the car. That disappearing door one is pretty slick

I have 2 sheared bolts in my flywheel. Makes me pissed. I even tried looking up torque specs, but this site was down. damn servers. and I just had it resurfaced.

nope. not a 240z spoiler. its a body kit made for the 240sx. notice no peak on the hood or bumper