AK-Z

I know that. I recieve a catelog from them every quarter. I guess found where the datsun section is. The have a separate section just for japanese cars and its under "black Dragon" didn't even mention anything about japanese cars being in a separate section, theres just a link.

http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0058.html

I went to VB's website and there seams to be nothing on datsuns, just old euro cars.

I say build a bender. Buy some dyes and build a frame with a c-clamp for adjustment in depth and gradually bend that pipe. Then cut sections out for what you need and weld straight pipe on to that. Another thing is that, if you are using a bender that wants make the pipe wrinkle in on itself, use a canvas bag, fill it with sand and put it inside the pipe. It will help with the wrinkling.

My thought is that if they have used it on race vehicles then it would be used in at least one production car by now. I know some custom cars have the disk brakes located on the half axle (at least on the flange) right next to the differential. I know that semis use pnuematic brakes that also flows to the trailer brake system. I think that would be a better solution, but not so reasonable.

Are you looking for a 4 point or just a replacement. If a 4 point I suggest you get a rollbar because you want the upper points to mount on the cross bar. If not, on braking the straps are going to scrunch your shoulders down.

It was on page 44 of the 20th anniversary edition of the MSA catelog.

On the note of l28et ecus, I was looking through MSA old catelog and it said they had performance l28et ecu for $599. Is it really worth it? They also have a $500 core fee and say that it will be refunded when core is recieved, does that mean that it really $99?

Does the KA tranny bolt on to the L6, or do you need to mod the bell housing? Does it weight more or less? Just want yes or no answers. Sorry I didn't want to make another thread just for these quick questions.

I think it would be ok for body work, but I would want to get something witha better duty cycle for heavier stuff. Why spen money on something whe you know you're going to need a better one later (don't apply for everyone though).

SR20de? I think you're thinking of an older model Spec-v I'm reffering to the 02-04 model. Engine layout is alot like a civic and Had the OR25DE

A MR2 maybe or a sentra ser spec-V

Just remeber to use NON-galvinized metal. the galvinized part turns to a vapor when heated and if inhaled, can give you heavy metal poisoning, which could kill you. If you happen to inhale some and get sick (feel flue like symptoms) Drink LOTS and LOTS of milk for about a week. The milk helps pass the toxins out of your body. And of course consult a doctor if it ever does happen. Had a bad experience once when my resperator for my welding mask failed and had a leak when I was welding some fence outside. Too much heat and a failed resperator = bad.

damn. now I want to work on my car. they look sweet. What rubber are you going to throw on those?

check spark plug gap.then test to see if theres spark. Its really simple if you have someone helping. With all plugs screwed in, unplug one of the wires from a plug and have your friends crank it, not too long or you'll burn out the starter. while cranking, hold the wire with the tip about 1/2 - 1 inche away from the plug. you should be able to see a spark arc across to the plug. Maybe the fuel pump is going bad, I don't know.

Sorry I had a brain fart I ment to say the coupe was longer

Well what I mean buy seam seal (I went sealer) is, I'm sure you 've seen it already. You know the stuff that covers the welded areas in the interior, like the lower panel right behind the seats. You can see some type of goop that covers wehre it would have been welded, that stuff. Its to prevent water and stuff from seeping through. All you really need to do is what I mentioned that the body shops do, but I get paranoid when I skimp on stuff like that.

240z 2+2? I thought 260z znd 280z were the only models to come out 2+2. Well anyways the door hinges were the different on 71-72, 73-75?, 76?-78. I believe that whether or not it was a 2+2 didn't make a difference in what hinges were used, it was the production date. The hatch is longer on a 2+2, same with the doors.

Generally with body panels you need to put tack welds since the metal is so thin. Put one every 1 1/2 to 2 inches then go back up one in between those and so forth untill it looks like you have one continuous bead, then dress the weld. Most body shops just 2 passes of tacks then dress and then seam seal it and bondo and paint.

The tps is the 3rd mechanical piece following the air route from the intake assembily. Should be: filter->air flow meter-> throttle body. TPS is the electrical piece on the throttle body. I had the same problem. In my case it was the connections getting old and corroded. I just reversed eletrode plated all the lead (water with washing soda and a low amp 12v source for an hour, only removes loose corroded metal).

Sorry that I can't answer your question but I have a question to add to that. If you were to use a thinner gasket would you have to shim it as well?

Try Victoria British. They're not the best but might as well ask. VB stuff (as far as panels go) are tabco panels but they don't offer free shipping. Might as well order a set of lower door window seals thats why they're rotted out(and age).