AK-Z

I thought they don't have a Daig tool for OBD-1 ECUs. OBD-11 came in 96 I believe. Are you talking about a Taurus? Could be the TBS. You can look up error codes off of the ecu with out a tool. Not sure for ford but for dodge, you just have to turn the key 3 timesin 5 seconds (without cranking) and the error code will blink from the engine light in 2 digit numbers. So blink blink pause blink blink pause bink pause blink pause will give you 22 and 11. You can look up what it means by looking up "OBD error code ford" in google.

Fuel pump maybe? One my 280z had a stumbling problem when I first got it It was becacuse it didn't have enought gas, lol. My other one would backfire like crazy, that was because of floading the engine. I'm not an expert but, am just trying to help.

Thats if you weld the seam all the way around. Which isn't hard but very time consuming. Plus if you weld continuous beads it will distort/stretch the metal.

I would think it would be almost the same as shaving door handles.I would rather weld new sheet metal instead of reusing the old inspection lids. You can just get new fiberglass ones. Just ask the guy at reactionreseach.com to see if he has done that.

Just remember to set the crank to TDC and adjust from there. You have to remove the oil pump to adjust the shaft, Yous don't have to remove the shaft all the way.

Check to see if the vacuum advance is stuck on the dizzy. Also check if the plug wires are damaged. And check to see if the advance adjustment plate is mounted properly.

I would but even that is taxed and cost of living up here is more, plus I"m still im college (can't get enough education).

I would think that the toyota crank is ideal for this because I believe the nissan L6 had diffterent chamber locations (distance apart) So the only thing I could see in using from the nissan would be the pistons (c/r, pretty sure the bearing size is different) but I'm sure if anyone would take such an undertaking, would skip on using the old pistons. So it would be more of a toyota engine, All just because of designing the block around the head.

Price also matters on if they have one on hand and If they don't then it woul include shipping cost. Up here in alaska I was quoted $375.

Th weight of the bumper on the sheet metal will cause it to strectch and distort a little over time. Plus removeing the body panels afterwards would be a pain. Now if you modified it into a 3 piece bumper an made mounting brackets for the middle piece, that would work, but that would defeat the purpose of not having brackets

Thanks. I don't think that they would since I'm in alaska but wouldn't hurt to ask. I was just wondering if I can get one from NAPA or anywhere like that. Just to clarify this ISN'T the gasket between teh pump to the engine block, its the paper gasket in the pump assembly.

Funny my 78 had both webbing and sheild. Oh well, then i don't have to hassel with making one when I switch it over.

Very nice indeed. I was thinking of using a cutting wheel mounts off and for the egr, I was think of cutting the whole part off and use our shinker/stretcher machine shape a plate that would replace the section removed and TIG weld it in. But I guess your way is the easiest, I just wanted an excuse to use the shrinker.

I don't think that getting the bores and the bottom end machined would be the real problem, it would be machining the coolant part that would be difficult. I saw some thing on tv a couple of weeks ago that a drag team did. they machined a block based on the b18 honda motor with out the water jackets out of billet alum block. I don't remeber if they used a honda head or not but the thing was making like 300 hp per cylindar or something like that.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=91250

What year? The 81 is diferent than the 82-83. (factory build year) 81 turbo engien didn't have a crank angle sensor, and had some weird module attached to it. 82-83 had the CAS built into the dizzy. The 2 different version aren't interchangeable unless you had a couple of different things. You can use a NA version if its a 81, just diable vacuum advance, but not the ideal solution.

I wouldn't bother with it. Its just another thing to go wrong. With the one you have, where is it leaking from? If its from the roof to the frame of the window then use car weather sealer. Make sure the points that you are laying it down are CLEAN. If its from the frame to the window then use silicone. Open the sun roof and then CLEAN the rear that you are laying it down (not the window) and use a wire brush to rough it up a little so the silicone has something to hold on to. Close the window and wait till it drys. Use a knife to score the extra silicone and remove. Remember Prep work is everything.

I got my L28et oil pump from ebay cheap. I dissembled it to see the condition it was in. Internals look fine, some small dings on the 4 point rotating shaft. I need to get a new gasket for the part of the pump that I dissasembled. Does anyone know where I can get one?

Thanks. Mine looks alot like the one mounted on the engine (but with alot more mounting points, which you have taken off nicely). I wasn't sure if it was a non egr version because I wasn't sure what that hardline front the back was for. I have the equipment/skill to modify it so it looks like a non egr version, but I was just wondering you did to give it a finished look, like acid etching or another process. I guess dressing the welds and a good sand and polish will do when everything I can actually work in the car (-15 degrees, Anchorage Alaska). I don't like to polish because I don't have a real polisher (I use a dremel, grrrr)

Sort of on the same subject. I have both webbed(n47) and unwebbed(n42) manifolds. I know the n47 came with the egr. What models didn't come with one? And is there a way to modify one to look like it didn't come with one?

same here. This seems to be the case for suv/trucks, might not for cars. my jeep wants to shift at 45mph instead of 40mph which is killing my gas milage inless i drive it hard (how ironic).

I just used a oxy/ac torch and an long handled wire brush. Would braze/brass be a better subtitute than lead?

Isn't it because nissan used the same block for both NA and turbo motors (f54 block)? Just changed the crank, c/r, pistons for internals?

Grind off the head of a bolt and weld i to the top of the shifter (with it out of the car of course). I did this to my 78 because the diameter of the threaded section was too narrow for what knob I had. I could of just taped the threads to make it fit, but it was out of the car and I was bored.