AK-Z

Isn't there an audi tt with a 2 engine setup. Might try to find out what they did to get it synced.

The VIN number should be stamped on the block somewhere and from that you can translate whether or not it is a turbo block. I'm sure you can some thing on here on VIN translation if you search for it on this forum. But if I may ask why a 81 turbo engine? The 81 turbo was IMO the nissan turbo experiment engine. It was a just a lowered compression NA engine with a turbo slapped on to it and the dizzy modified from a NA version and the ecu mapped a little differently. The 82-(83,84?) ones had the ecu timed spark with the crank angle sensor. If its a time issue then it understandable, and can be easily modified to work like the 82-up model with a few parts. Just be sure to have do a compression test first. Oh and whether or not that engine block is "the best" (f54) is arguable some say the n47 is better for turbo, others say the n42. Its all on the condition of the block. Sorry for the long post, I was just bored.

Oh sorry. I thought that was the case from exp, but my dad has some weird setup in the shop. he attached a electro-magnet under the table. I've only been welding alluminum and titanium on it. I thought the weird electro-feild noise was coming from the welder. My bad.

Could be that the exhaust manifold gasket is leaking. Does sound like a exhaust leak some where.

Hand welding Ti is a pain too. You can only TIG weld it and Ti becomes magnetic when you run a current through it like while TIG welding so it wants to draw the filler rod in when you don't want it to, plus needs to be cryo treated because of dissimilar densities of bead to base metal.

Why not just Braze/brass weld it? it should flow into the hole better than solder and it can take higher temps last longer.

Street legality (smog)? won't pass with it installed ( no E.O. number for it), but if the car is 30 years or older then doesn't need smog test (Cali smog law).

You can try running smaller injectors. The ecu doesn't use them to monitor anything so its hsould behave normally, but if the ecu is getting the primary numbers for calc fuel from the o2 sensor then changing the injectors won't make a difference. But most likely the ecu it running in "limp mode." Its a mode that the ecu goes in if if certain sensors are unable to be read or are giving a undesired value. The mode has pre-set values to be able to run the engine without causing and failures (such as pinging) which is why your car is running rich. Most people like to run the car like that and works fine with no problems, but they all run pig rich. So if the car is running in this mode then I say get smaller injectors and see if it runs a little leaner.

Actually in my MSA catelog I saw a (not dual exhaust) but exhaust system with dual tail pipes (quad tips). It looked like a standard exhaust layout but had another pipe (after the muffler) bend to the right side and beld out. So it looked something like this || || | | | | <-- muffler | |________________ | |------------------- | | <-- tip---------->| | something like that but the muffler had one inlet and 2 outlets. edit: my visual got a little scewed after posting but you can see what I was trying to show.

I am also interested in this topic. So with a 4 point, would it be safe to mount the lap belt section to where the old seat belt mounts are? And then mount the shoulder straps to the horizontal support of the roll bar? edit: stupid me, I didn't read the last entry.

The firewall (at least on mine) hasn't shown any rust issues from the inside. I just removed that because it was old and I was going to replace it but I'm debating whether or not to. The trans tunnel I don't see a real reason to remove except the bottom 3 inches and at the top. A whick effect from the carpet can cause water to rise up the trans tunnel more than expected. The top is because people spill things and because water can come inside from the shifter boot, though small and unnoticable eventually cause rust.

Thx, but I think thats a little pricey for me right now. I'll try to model one in cad and see if I can get one made. But in reality I'll get lazy and give up and buy one through my uncle and have him ship it to me.

Haha. I'll be nice. Nissan never made an l28 aluminum engine block. They were all (cast?, forged?) iron blocks. The only main piece of the engine that would be aluminum is the head/valve block.

Yeah I remembered reading about that awhile ago. I found the thread but none of the likes work.Well looks like I'm going to have to make a gear cad model and have my friend "test" his water jet with it.

I was wondering what you guys had to limit chain whipping at high rpms, to be more spacific the crappy tensioner that nissan had on there.

For me, there were 3 reasons why I removed it. 1. Rust. Anything that can hold moisture that close to metal reguardless of paint/primer is not a good thing. Even though the sound deadener itself repells water, it can encapsulate it and hold it closes to the metal and given time can actually make its way through paint. 2. Weight saving. You can save a good 15 lbs. by removing it. This was not my main reason but since it had to go then might as well remove it. 3. Metal work and primer/paint prep. I always feel warry when welding around the stuff. Those fumes can't be good for you.

you loosen the bolts attaching the hood to the hinges, then moce it around untill you have it the way it should fit, then tighten the bolts. If you need more adjusting then open the hood, loosen the bolts attaching the hinge to the body. You may need to use something to loosen the hinge from the body, I used a paint scraper. adjust it while its open then tighten one bolt on each side in the same location, then close the hood and adjust some more, then tighten.

cold or heat. just as ON3GO said, but you can use heat also. Just warm it up enough to use a paint scaper on, then just use some brake cleaner to get the rest. I've had mixed results with both, one method might work more better than the other on your car. I've tried it on 2 280z and had to use dry ice on one and heat on the other.

If you just want it running, you can just have the cylindar bored out and a new one pressed in, but I rather try to find another engine. You never know what else could be wrong when an engine has been sitting ther like that for that long.

It will work and make it eaier to turn your car with but I don't think justifying $2000 is worth it when you can just buy a laptop for like $750 new, you can even find just a junk one for $50 and just tune on that. Plus I am sure they both use like 20-40 gb micro drives and if that breaks (screen and HDD are usuall the first thing to go) its going to be super hard to find replacments.

I believe MSA have a latch solenoid to pop the trunk electronically. It would be alot easier to run wires than a line.

I have one up here in alaska, non egr, but I'm planing on using it.

My advice to you is to work on the structural stuff first and then the mechanical/electrical stuff next. The superficial (i.e. which bumper to use) stuff should be decided towards the end of the project inless it ties into structural or mechanical stuff. I say check for the amount of rust damage to the floor, if its minor then it you shouldn't be too worried. Then depending on how much HP you want to get out of it then might want to concider a roll bar/cage. That last bumper you posted can be purchased at MSA at zcarparts.com and they might have some other stuff you might consider buying.

Are you using the stock dizzy with the advance disabled? Reeason why I'm asking is because the 77 ecu kinda through me off. I don't know of the L28et rating but the L28e was rated with a 175 gross HP. I think it said 150 net hp.

I agree, but there are some times that back pressure thing is true. I guess it depends on the engine. For example. I have a 93 jeep cherokee 4.0 and recently I had the whole exhaust changed (headers, cat, pipe, muffler) and I noticed that it have more HP but when winter came around and I had to put in into 4x4, I found out that I lost alot of torque on the lower end and now I'm using more gas than I would usually be using. Same thing with my moped. Not saying that its true or false, but just what I've noticed. you shouldn't be concerned about it.