AK-Z

I got it at some classic car convention that was up here a while ago, when it was still the "Oooo what is that" thing. The guy I talked to told me how to put it on but I didn't hear him mention anything about clear coat the time. It would still be a destraction to other drivers so it would still be not road legal.

Just remember to pad it or else you might get some head tramma.

Nice. Looks great. I tried something like that but it looks crappy, not because of the paint but because the letters have dings and I don't have access to a mill machine. If its acrylic you might want to heat it up a little bit, it helps bond the paint, as I believe Z-tard said in another thread. Just don't heat the paint directly. I did it to some of my models and it turned out great (when the plastic doesn't melt lol), I used a heat gun.

I used in on my models (yes it the same paint, I got a sample jar when I was asking the company about it). form my impression the paint scratches pretty easily, but I only put one coat on my models. I would assume that a couple of layers of clear would fix that, but I tried and am unsure if the paint does well with clear coating. I decided not to pursue investigating it any further because its techically illegal to do that, because it would be a "destraction to other drivers." I guess it would be good if you put it on in a subtle way, kinda like how its not put on all over the place like on the 3rd pic, just to accent certain areas. Edit: Also like black, it will show dents and blemishes alot more easily

depends. If its for currosion (sp, im tired) resistence I would go SS, but if its structureal I would go steal. Reason being, the carbon content of steal compared to SS. the more carbon the more stiffer the metal, but the downside to that is, it looses flexability which mean its more likely to crack intead of bend. Its a trade off, now SS is more flexable so not so good for structureal things. Thats why you don't see that many SS structureal pieces inless its in a tube or is a thick piece.

I see, that clarifies thing. Well when I was reffering to getting a separate gun, line and spool, I was reffering to alluminum. With stainless it doesn't matter. You can actually weld SS filler onto normal steal and vice versa, but its not recommended.

Well for my view the engine and trans can be done separately while working on the body. IMO the order of upgrades should be brakes suspension chassie, interior engine and egine related upgrades. But since you're doing a ground upgrade, this doesn't really matter.

Every little bit helps. I'll figure something with the wiper compartment. What would a firewall be like in a car with low preasure in the engine compartment?

With this I would suggest welfin it on there and then using a oxy/acc torch with a heating nozzel, a propaine torch, or an oven to heat the whole thing to about 400-600 degrees and then letting it cool gradually. Letting it cool gradually is the key because the welded areas will "crystalize" (I forgot what the term was) if cooled to quickly.

I think as in how many pots there are 4 will do fine, but its always a good thing to know you have more stopping force than needed, with 6.

I thought automatics came with a r180, mine did. Well its stated by 1zcarfan.

OOoooo. Nice shiney.

I would say so, but not to sure with out looking at it. Edit: I keep forget the most important details right after I read it. lol "Reassembled motor"

do have any more pics? The front looks like a 350z kinda from the photo. The back looks to be an improvement. Well would the belly pan that darius put on his be a big improvement?

Wipers?

Thats a s30 with a 280zx engine swap ie. wangan midnight TT car. The game was based off of the wangan midnight series.

If thats the case, why not use a z31 ecu and MAF sensors? You would still have to set it up with the MAF on the intake side (I believe, not to sure) but would free up some air flow by getting rid of the flapper door.