AK-Z

Any H4 bulbs you buy on ebay are crap. If you go HID make sure it comes with the tranformer thing that bumpup the wattage to the bulb. And Make sure the lenses can handle the heat. As far as adapting existing ones, there was a person on here that adapted (can't remeber exactly) some prototype ones the he go some how. Might want to search. As for me, I'm gonna adapt some Yamaha R6 (2003) headlights to mine, or at least try to since I'm going to attemp to build my own fenders from fiber glass. Edit: Oh I only read half of the post when i typed my response. Good work, looks awsome.

AH thats why they put them there. The reason why I said they were more trouble then they're worth is because of routing the cable (if it even functioned that way) and measuring. If it doesn't operate with a cable then I would hate to get out of the car just to adjust the mirror.

I think they gives a sense on uniqueness to it. But I just think they're more trouble then they're worth. if you YOU want do it then all the more power to you.

Ok I didn't know that the maxima came with a l24 variant Learn something new everyday.

Yeah there was some scpecial I watched that had a pure drag old school maxima with L6 making I think 600hp+. I'm being conservitive with the HP,It was a while ago that I saw it but I do remember it doing about high 6s on the 1/4 mile. I don't remeber if it was NA or turboed though. Guess that wouldn't be streetable huh.

Isn't that the LD28? Would it even work since It doesn't have sparkplugs (diessel)?

I'm guessing the lead goes up about 8-12 inches judging from the amount on the b pillar. Could be less because its on the lower section of the frame, just not too sure.

That is a 240z bumper (or reproduction) it just with out the bumper guards and the holes either filled in, or were never put in (reproduction). If your looking for one, I know MSA were selling fiberglass ones (not sure if they still do). Ok, on with the thread. I would also like to know what colors would be avalible and if it would be possible to mix colors with that formulation and how thin would you want it to be to lay down and would you lay it in layers?. On a side note, I think I would rather spray on the epoxy primer.

Its all about the prep work before and after painting.

Plus to add to that, what of coverage? I'm sure there are issues with trying to get paint in certain spots that spraying would get easily.

Is there a way to adapt a 300zx digital dash onto a 280z? Would I only need the dash and the harness? I already have a 280zx digital dash but speedo only reads up tp 85mph. Is there a way to have it read higher? could I somehow swap the chip that causes this with one out of a 300zx digital dash?

One of my friends said his friend used a paintbrush. It looks ok. I would think it would be a pain to sand after though. (roller)Would you have to wet sand even more than if you were to spray it? I would think you still have to do this in a booth of somekind, am I right?

The problem would be the lint/fibers the would come off the roller and putting on an even coat. I guess you can wet sand the lint and then just buff it. Hhhhmmmm In thinking if trying it, or at least try to experiment on something.

do this is going to require a little more work then you might think. Yout going to have to weld a small piece of sheet (just enough to cover the hole) onto the insde of the hatch, or (harder way but better) cut a piece to fit flush with the hole and weld it, then dress the weld. Then you can bondo it. If you just bondo it, its not going to hold and just fall into the hatch.

I think there is something that is being overlooked. Th S-15 had the speedo send/cable (don't remember which) comes from the differencial while the ZX had it coming from the tranny. Another thing; Didn't the skyline 6-speed only come in a AWD version? I think a z33 (350z) tranny would be a better swap. I believe the skyline r35 (inifinity G35) had a modified tranny off of the z33 to take the transfer case, I could be wrong.

As far as I know there aren't any replacement kits that let you use the original key. What I did was to get a new lock set (replacement Kit) and canibalized the tumbler from my old locks. I'm sure you can get a locksmith to do it for you if you have all the parts.

Thats awsome. I might want to do that instead of a L28 turbo build (I have access to a free Northstar half cut). Whats the weight on the engine and are/did you have the motor mounted farther back and how far?

You should be able to access the internal part of the hatch by unscrewing the vinle piece from the inside. Just look at the trunk from the inside. Its pretty hard to view the loack from there so use a flashlight.

The P90 should give you more quelch since the air/fuel is focused more toward the spark plug electrode due to teh chamber design. The P79 have the same chamber design but with high compression. The N42 has a domed chamber design. As for compressions, the more compression the higher the fuel volume to aire has to be, especially on force induction. The fuel curve for a turbo setup is a little diferent than the NA setting because the higher the RPMs teh more the fuel has to be put in because of volume compression due to the turbo. For torque numbers between heads, I don't know. I don't think that anyone on here has actually done a comparision on different heads.

Springs from which pontiac? I know that my L28 won't reach those rpm numbers but its nice to know that the springs would be able to.

I thought that the 280zx only came in recirc. ball power steering or the rack and pinion. Did you do a coversion or something? Does it have a powr steering pump?

Nice. I want some of 'em 10,000 rpm valve springs.

Haha. Thats a good way of remembering I have to remember that. I just usually use a sharpie when I unplug the wires.

It did but not sure if the ecu used it at all though. I think it was just hooded up to the temp gauge to tell when the engine was over heating. If it did and it wasn't hooked up then the engine would still run and be in "limp mode" the engine would still run.