AK-Z

Thanx. The one I need to see the wire out for is the small blask 10 pin plug in the center of this one

lol I found like $30 in quarters when I removed the center console in mine lol. I suggest use some penetrating lub insid the chambers to loosen up some rust(as mentioned before) and also change the fuides (also mentioned before), check if the battery is good and check the fuses/relays.

Yeah thats what I mentioned before on the other page. the static weight might be ideal, but I have read that the kenetic weight (into the corners) cause the car to understeer because of the center on gravity being high.

Not necessarly, the turbo increases airflow into the chambers thus adding more volume into each chamber, so more fuel has to go (air/fuel ratio). Also what matters is the compression. Turbo engines have lower compression than NA ones (but I'm sure you already know that) so its going to run a bit sluggish and your not going to get the fuel economy you want just by yanking off the turbo off a turbo engine, its going to run rich. You need to change the compression ie. change the c/r and/or pistons and also have it advance timing under load (vacuum advance, or computer controlled).

You also have to consider load on the engine and fuel ratio when with boost and when with out.

I'm not sure. With felpros I've read on here that people have had some bad results some good. I think that most people on here will suggest the OEM ones. I've heard great results with the nismo gasket, but have also read that the there are some tiny oil seepage and is normal. I think that MSA and Arizona Z are the best place to look that I know of. http://www.arizonazcar.com/gasket.html http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PEM09 Some other people might post some other places.

If its for anything performance related then I say just try to find a new one. If is for anthing that like daily use then I would say you can reuse the old one. If you have to use a scraper to get it off, use a plastic scraper so you don't end up damaging the surface of the metal. IMO. I say get a new one. You spend all your time, money, and labor on rebuilding your engine, might as well get a new one as a precautionary measure.

Concerning the transmission. It will pretty much be a swap except for some linkages. just make sure you keep the throw-out berings and preasure-plate with the trans that it originally came from. Not sure if thats the case with the clutch, and flywheel.

no prob. The dash is one of the only thing I can work on right now because my car is under like 1 1/2 feet of snow. No rush.

Now are you guys talking about electronic brake assisted or pure electronic brakes. I know they make electronic drum braks for like trailers and stuff, but I don't think that it would be a good idea for the actual vehicle.

Nice.

For the rebuild mentioned, I'm guessing that you guys already change/check the plug. Does the plug on the cylindar that doesn't fire spark? You can check by having the car idle in a dim area and pulling th plugwire from it and holding it about half a inche from the plug, you should be able to see a spark jump across. If its good then could be the injector or something related. Might want to see if the cap is cracked, sometimes unnoticable and commonly overlooked.

Maintainence. The bikes with exposed chain drive need to be oiled every so often where as a belt, if it wears out then you just need to replace it, plus rust. Even though stainless is rust resistent its not rust proof because of the small amounts of iron, now there are certain types of stainless that do not have iron mixed in the alloy but they lack strength in comparison and are less rigid (more flexable). Now chain in a car is self oiled and is pretty much sealed, for the most part, from moisture.

Check your spark plugs. The backfiring can be because the plugs don't have enough electricity to produce a consistant spark with the ballast now. Do to running without a ballast for so long, it causes the metal (depending on the type of metal used for the electrode)to burn off because of the higher voltage or move metal from one point of the gap to the other. If you know anyhting about electro-plating then this is whats happening. You just need to sheck the plugs and maybe get new ones. As for the alternator. I don't think you need to worry about that, thats about how much my jeep is at for voltage readings. Might as well replace the battery though. When an alternator starts to fail it looses voltage amount produced. Could be you voltage regulator.

Not sure but isn't the angle of the valves different as well?

Some of the energy can be lost unintensionally in this case can be noise, vibrations, heat, and resistence.

Oh is this a V8? Check optical trigger and see if it has consistent fuel pressure. could the fuel pump. Checking condition of plugs can confirm fuel issue also.

Not to famillar with aftermarket coils but the stock setup had a external ballast. Does the one you have, have an internal ballast? If so then you don't need to worry about that. Might want to check the spark plugs and the wires. If there is not ballast at all then it will cause premature wear of the plugs. Th ballast is a type of relay that steps down the power to the coil. When starting, power is unrestricked to help starting in cold weather and then the power is stepped down to reduce plug wear (electrolosis). It will work and run for a while but it will eventually have inconsistant spark because of plug wear.

How does it hold up to wheathering and time?

I think it can be the coil or the ballast or it can even be a vacuum problem.

Yes that would help tremendously. What I need are the Colors of the wires coming from the plugs that attach to it. From looking at mine, I see a black 12 pin (2x6) plug and a pigtailed 10 pin (2x5) plug. Reason why I asked if it hooked up to anything like a "computer" of some sort or something that I didn't have, to have the dash working properly is because I only have the dash (dash), the voice warning module (little black box 2x10 plug), the warning module (stamped sheet metal box two 2x5 plugs) right now. The 300zx version had to have a power modulae and the proper ecu in order for the dash to work. I don't think I need the 2x5 plug becaus I know thats just for the little status lights. If you can, can you get me the colors of the wires leading to the 2 other modules (pictures)? thanx

Use VLC. Theres a new version of it that can play the uber new codecs.

(280zx)Who has had their digital dash removed? I have one and the jaguar gear to have it read mph in kmph. I need to know what the dash hook up to directly. Does it connect to a power regulator module like the 300zx version? I have the warning module and the voice module also.

While you're working on the door frame, you can also modify the door and door frame to fit like modern car doors fit. Just a suggestion, It would be mind blowing to do this IMO. I don't know, I'm sleep depraved right know, going on 43 hours right now with out sleep.