AK-Z

Oh it started in 74.I just posted what I knew, I thought its was 76. I know that they carried over the 2+2 through to the 300zx, I was just the stating the first gen models because in japan the 240z, 260z and 280z (not 280zx) are classified as the same model car. And technically the 78 models are actually 77 because thats when they stopped production on the 280z. I don't see why japan wouldn't sell the 2+2 model cars that early in th US, it would have given them a better selling point and usually they only reason they wouldn't have sold them in the us are engine emmission requirements and since all of them had pretty much the same powerplant I don't see that as a problem.

Thanks. Well the neon lights might work but I see the amount of work to get them to fit the same amount as lets putting supra lights or the R6 lights I mentioned. The integra headlights are wide. they take up about a third of the front bumper each on the integra. And to have them on a Z and have them look right is going to be hard. you can just stuff them in the grille.

I beleive that 2+2 were made from 76 to 78. I know that the there were 280z 2+2, I think there was a 260z version also. Maybe the decals were whiched. If you have a chance look at the VIN plate on the door frame, It should say the month and year made (1/76 i.e. january 1976)

they are also call suger scoops (old name IMO)

Yeah you can just remove the ballast resistor completely and just connect the 2 leads together.

Might be able to use these. Yamaha R6 2003 headlights.

It should have an internal balast like relay in it already. it wouldn't have hurt anything if you were running both.

Exactly. It doesn't look like I can modify that one to work though. I want to inclose it in the stock taillight.

I was thinking more of a sweeping motion of (colums) 100%, 80%, 60%, ect. light intenisty like the light thing in the front (bumper) of the nightrider trans-am but only going one direction With alot more rows of them.

Sweet. Then I wouldn't have to make a whole new module. (Might be better if I did though) I can just modify an existing one. Now do you recall if they were leds or bulbs? I would think that leds would be pricey back then and wouldn't be put in cars because they would have had to put in a lot of them.

You can always make your own ciruit board and make your own. Not really that hard but it is messy. The way I want my car to be setup I'm gonna have to do that. I want it so the a row of lights move from the inside to the out side of the taillight when the signal is going with a shadow glow after that, kinda like the light in the front of the nightrider car but only going one direction and a bunch of them stacked.

beatcha to it. I kinda hard wired them in.

I would assume that would be a given. BTW when I ment the integra turn signals, I ment to in corperate them into the bumper (240z).

Well I just keep coming up with ideas. Well for turn signals have you also tried thinking about getting those "halo" headlights and the putting on a pair of clear headlight covers and wiring the "halo" portion to the turn signal, so the signal can reflect off the covers?

For got to ask. Have you tried using Acura integra turn signals? the curve seems about right and you can find them hella cheap.

Thx. I've been debating whether or not to do it for a while now. The problem that I keep coming into, in having it work is adjesting the angle of the projectors. Since its off a bike, I don't think its adjustable (left or right). Well I have to make my own fenders from fiberglass anyways because shipping to Alaska is a pain, so I just might do it, but i can't work on it till summer . For right now I am just focussing on gathering parts, so I can get started on the engine in the spring.

I was actually thinking of using yamaha 2003-2006 R6 headlights. You can tell that each side has both hi and low beams. I got the idea from someone using CBR headlights on there honda.

it my impression that the BMC is suppose to be a sealed unit (except the filler caps) and should not leak inless its going bad. BTW how mucah are rebuild kits?

Well I know the L6 engine cars (72-83) had mechanical speedos, so there could be something wrong with the trans. if its the 300zx then I don't know if it was mechanical or electrical. You could check if the balast resistor is bad also. something like that happend with my jeep.

As with all forms of welding, prep work will dictate mostly the outcome of the welds. I think TIG and MIG /w gas are the easiest forms of welding because one can controll the atmosphere, more than other forms, in which the weld takes place.

Just do what I did. Find a spare shifter, hack it weld it, and put it in. Have the original one just in case you screw up. Keep in mind that this is a 77 production 280z 5 speed. I cut the bottom of it from the piviot point and measured the maximum amount that the transmission would allow for clearence and subtracted by about 1/4 of an inche. Then Measured the difference of what that was (center of piviot) to the part that I cut off and cut the top part with those measurements and flipped the piviot part ans welded everthing back together. So in short cut the bottom, cut the top leaving a little metal, flipped the center and welded it. the shorter the throw, the more the shifter will (or seem) to vibrate. I can post a pic later.

Where did you get those ITBs? I've been looking everywhere I could think of for those with no luck.

Could it be a worn brake shoe thts not disengaging properly?

To my memory, I don't think anyone has. I personally think that it wouldn't look good on a Z because of a couple fators. The "power buldge" on the early z is too gradual of a buldge, the volvo in the pic has a more acute transision almost to the point that its perpendicular to the ground.