AK-Z

Looks Right to me. I actually have drive gear/shaft right here and looks like it matches up. And if you were to put it on backwards it would still be the same thread direction anyways.

you are going to have a problem getting the white LEDs to work. They are going to come out green if you just pop them in there. There is a translucent green piece the the bulb goes into and you either have to remove it or replace it with clear ones.

I thought that 92 sentras were was front wheel drive. From the sounds of it, it sounds like your tranny is shot, or you tourqe convertor is shot (automatics don't have clutch disks). If the wheels can move in any gear then that means that it has something to do with the tranny/torque converter. Usually only one axle brakes when they do, so one wheel should be able to move when in gear on jacks. Oh It could just be you differential also.

You just remove the spare tire well out and just put the spare in the trunk (above the panel). It should have straps. A custom/racing gas tank sound good, but if I were to install one I would have to as low as possible to keep the center of gravity down, maybe put a shield on there to protect the lines. Just a suggestion.

there is a piece that the old dizzy sits on and has the dizzy advance adjuster thing, that need to be removed. Had the same problem but didn't know untill I started to clean the caked dirt/grease that was around that area.

Price to refill Oxy Acetolene. Not Argon. and doesn't reflect price in lower 48.

What a engine to start out with. Only things needed to make it TT (if not alreaady, I just skimmed through it) is a custom exhaust manifold, turbo, down pipe and intake pipe. But a bit to pricey for me, cost more than what I paid for both of my z cars.

My condollences. I'm sure you can modify a camaro reproduction 3 piece, or make one from scratch. It shouldn't be too hard.

I don't know. That doesn't really do it for me. I'm not a fins and wing type a guy. The stanse is right on though. For me the "car" should be what draws the eye, not the individual details, well thats just my opinion.

I believe the cartech monifold (single Holly manifold, for L28) had issues with the first and sixth cylindars leaning out. Force induction on a carb enigne is difficult reguardless of what type of carb you have. Turbo is the way to go, There isn't much of a gain throwing a blower on there inless you want response. I would rebuild the engine since I assume it hasn't been rebuild since it left the factory, You rebuild the bottom end for force induction. And since you have a L28et setup, you have most of the parts already. Issue I see is whether or not you have the L28et distributor and electronics/harness.

I have have larger size tanks that you normally wouldn't get for personal use, plus shippment of equip and supplies to alaska raises cost. edit: Oxy is cheaper than Acetonlene.

All p79 had normal lifters, the p90a were the only heads that had hydrolic lifter. I wouldn't get a p90a for its lifters because its just one more thing to go wrong. Those lifters were only made to lower the noise of the engine. The reason why not enough fuel and/or too much advance on boost will make your engine go BOOM is because gasolene is in a way a coolant. When you compress air into a tiny area it cause it to heat up, now the more oxgen compressed the hotter it can get. now add a little gas and BOOM. Now adding more gas replaces some more of the oxigen that would be compressed. NOw I'm confusing myself, lol. Now if can understand what I was tring to explain, I'll be surprised.

Has any body try to put a intake manfold from a Diesel LD28 on a L28? How did it run, any issue with doing such a thing? I'm just curious.

I would go with the L28et stroker and swap the elctronics from the VG over. Then can use the MAF sensor instead of the AFM, plus the z31 ecu is upgradable. There is a thread on how to do this somewhere but I forgot what section its in. Now that you know that there is a thread about doing such a thing, you can search for it.

When buying a MIG stay away from no name brands and department store (sears) always get name brand (Miller, Lincoln, Hobart). And aleays make sure that is upgradable to gas, so you don't have to buy another MIG welder.

A decent welder can cost you about $1500. I'm sure you can find one for cheaper from gov auctions or companies closing down and wanting to sell there equip. Be sure to get a single phase welder or you won't be able to weld at home (inless you live in an industrial area with a 3 phase power grid).

SMAW= Shielded Metal Arc Welding. Sitck/Arc welding.

WTF lol

I guess you can do that, but its just more of a hassel another hose on when most of the work doesn't require it. Plus I like it when I forget about the second tank and find out I need to get more argon, just swap the tanks out and get the empty one refilled later.

From my understanding, it can be 2 basic problems, fuel or spark. With the heat issue I would assume fuel , but that all depends on how hot thay are running. To test for spark: while running, unplug the wire from the spark plug. The engine should sound different. Hold the end of the cord close enough to the spark plug to see a spark arc across, I would say about 1/2 to 1/8 of an inche away. try on all cylindars, one at a time. If you don't hear a change in the engine when you unplug the wire, then that means no spark or no fuel.