AK-Z

Good stuff, but all review for me. I would like to contribute some info: For body work, use a MIG. It causes less heat thus less metal warpage (spot welds). For structural pieces or not finish work use TIG. It has more penetration in the base metal and welds at a higher temp thus letting the metal cool slower which makes it stronger than what you would produce with MIG. Metal Prep is paramount and can ultimately effect how a weld will turn out. I suggest getting a second argon tank for purging if you plan on welding tubing with TIG, so use use it to run argon through the tube and weld the outside, not an issue if you're welding chromemoly. Oh I just noticed: MIG vs "TIC" ?

I am green wih envy. I wouldn't mind trying to turbo the LD28, since it is diesel I assume it can take much higher boost/compression than the l28et.

I don't know of the motor on ebay that you speak of, but I would assume you would have to have a manul boost controller because the ECU is used soley for fuel management and you said you wanted to keep you carbs. There is alot that goes into turboing a NA engine properly. You can just slap a turbo on there and it will work for a little while (just not the results thaqt you might be looking for) but in doing so, there are so many things that can go wrong. I suggest you search.

The "soft" rubberized/undercoating is crap. Even though it itself repells water, what really happens is that while driving, it gets hit by thousands of rock/dust/debris and the causes it to gash at some part, then that just lets moisture in and usually the undercoat incapsolated it. But with that water incontact with the metal (regaudless of paint and/or primer) and it being incapsulated there, cuases the metal to rust even faster. I have proof of this. I have a 78 with the stuff, and a 77 without. They were driven daily in the winter and the 78 has far more rust damage than the 77 (this is in alaska by the way). I would go with a hard sprayon liner, not no crappy stuff you might find at walmart, something that needs to be applied at a elevated temp, or herculiner.

My jeep 4.0 says the redline is @5000 rpm.

The L24, L26, L28 are "generally speaking" are the same block, its just that the cylindars are bored different sizes/strokes. Which is best is arguable. Only the 280zx came with a turbo version from the factory. The twin turbo (sequencial turbos as you discribed) are deffinitly a aftermarket/custom job. As for bodies goes; if you want the car for lightness, ge a 240z; if you want a car for rigitity get a 280z or 280zx. the 280zx is heavier than the 280z but the 280z is heavier than the 240z. I would say get anyone rust free, that is a must. If I had to choose I would get a 240z, you can always put a roll cage in later, but some of the parts that need to be replaced might not be as easy to find.

Sorry I got mixed up with the Freeway Speeday movie.

It was a S130. S130 = 280zx. I could spot the difference between a S30 and a S130 from a mile away.

You need to get an adapter plate, which is like a 1 think block of aluminumwith a diaginally drilled hole on the bottom(front to back).

Oh and BTW the video is the intro for the video game. So for the most part is it computer graphics.

Funny thing is, is that I am the one that posted the video on Zippy lol (view sig). If I recall, there were 7 cars That I know of running this setup in Japan. I think its 6 now because one of the cars had a casting flaw in the block that finally came apparent of engine failure. Th e cars range from 240z to 280z (first gen cars).The engines are stroked to 3.1L/3.2L and twin turboed, with a R200 out of 300zx. I know of 3 with power steering, one with a miata rack, the other from a WRX, and the other with the 280zx power steering adapted (recirculating ball steering). BTW they had a Live Action movie of Wangan Midnight, that kinda sucked. Its old and VERY hard to find. The car wasn't a 280z, like in the manga, it was a 280zx (not to be hateing on my fellow ZXers). BTW Wangan Midnight is all based on the manga (at least the series and games).

Ok thanks. I have a r180 also. You guys think that the r180 diff case would be strong enought for let stay 400 hp /400 lbs. applicaton ( over estimating just to be safe).

Just be careful where you put leverage to get the trim off with a screw driver. I have slight dents every 10 inches or so on the roof, lol. I have to prep it for paint anyways

You can lower the height a little by replacing the oil pan with some thing a little shorter. But you would still need a hood cowl than would run from the front of the hood all the way to the back of it. Plus its a very torquey engine and doesn't like to rev very high and its SOHC. Most of the after market stuff for it are for off-roading apps.

I believe that its a blow by carb twin turbo setup. The block should be off a 280zx. Twin turbo is alittle more dificult to acomplish because the steering column gets in the wway on US versions of the s30 nissan L6 engines.

Isn't the turbo on a cummins a variable geometry turbo? If it does, then that takes care of the lag for the most part. The problem I see is figuring out how to control the variable geometry valve. Well if it doesn't then I know a Banks diesel tubro does. I believe 2 out of the "Big three" companies had VG turbos stock on there diesels trucks. The VG valve is a type of funnel the focus exhaust to cause it to exit at a higher vilocity. Think a hose running water, it just comes pouring out now if you lower the pressure it trickles out, now imagine putting you thumb over the end, it sprays out because of the water wantigng to exit through a smaller opening. Now imagine that on a turbo but variable.

To illaberate on the question. I read the sticky on diffs already and was just wondering whether or not lets say a subaru lsd will fit in a nissan diff?

I know that you can "bolt in" a RB in a datsun, but wouldn't bolting it in like that cause the car to be front heavy and cause it to understeer in corners? If you're going to use it for street and drag then I don't see any problems. Just wanted to point that out. Might even help you at the drag strip, more leverage weight over the rear wheels.

If you look at ebay, you can find one for like $9 easy, but I would assume shipping would be like $15 (for me at least [alaska]). For some reason its harder to find driver side lights then passenger sdies. I was in the same boat you are in. My advice is to study up on the car as much as possible so when you have money to work on it you will know exactly what you want to do. Information for the most part is free escpecially on this forum. Another advice is to do the body work as soon as possible. These car tend to rust VERY VERY easily so the sooner you can get the rust taken care of the better.

I think its the length of the connecting rods that they are refferring to. You don't want the top of the pistons to raise over the top deck of the block, then pistons will hit the head causing all sorts of things to break.

Sorry then that I can't help you out. I am also looking for a driver side taillight assembily. But for me that is something that can wait.

IMO wouldn't it be better to just installing some aftermarket gauges? I know it would cost more, but its better than using some 30 year old worn gauges.

Well I think its a matter of how much work you want to put into it. The problem you will have with higher compression is that it will eventually start "pinging" (predetination). That is caused by not enought fuel mixture and/or too much heat in the chamber. Fuel in this case is also used as a coolant, in a way, to cool the chamber enough and as a ignition fuel. So more fuel for higher compression. There are a couple of ways of "adding more fuel." One would be getting a new engine computer. With a car almost 30 years old, you wouldn't think that the electronics of yor would be as efficient as today. Another would be to install carbs instead of fuel injection. Less efficient than FI , as in fuel economy, but get the job done and a little more easier in obtaining more power than fiddleing with engine computer settings IMO. Last and possibly the easiest solution would be to just install bigger injectors and/or raise the fuel pressure in the lines.

It might be better if you advance it 5 degrees (asuming normal) and retard the timing on the spark end. That will help with knocking.