AK-Z

You don't use filler for interior. You weld your pieces, primer it, then use "seam sealer" on the weld joints on both sides (inside, outside). You use filler on the exterior of the car to smooth out everthing. As for the condition of the floor, you're luck. You can just hack and weld small pieces together, whereas I need to get a new floor and replace a good piece of the firewall. I don't think that the floor rails are to far gone, they are made from thicker guage metal and last a little longer.

keeping my sources a secret.

Awsome.

Maybe run som hoter plugs for a more complete burn.

Yikes, I'll stick with what I know works (untill someone shows me something better running in there car.)

I'm not sure. Isn't the maxima VQ FWD? I haven't heard anything with a VQ and a pathfinder trany swap. If anything it would be like the nissan silvia and the infinity g20. they both have SR20 but the g20 was FWD and lower casing on the engine block was different than its counterpart, so you couldn't convert a g20 SR20 to RWD.

I agree. Get all the mechanical /eletrical stuff working first and then deal with the body. And when disassembling for body work, be as meticulous as possible in writing notes and labling.

here's the torrent its about 1.11 gb, has ther movie mentioned (2 parts) and the danger zone movie. Both have sub and dub options. I suggest in using VLC to play it, then you can right click and enable/disable subs and dub in english or japanese.

Had bad experience with undercoating. Just warry when it heats up and driving around where they use road salt.

I believe its because its linked as a php file instead of a acutal image file (i.e. jpg, bmp, tif) Ironically I have the same damage on mine Well for somthing like that I would expect a body shop would try to straighten out the surrounding metal and just body fill that. What I suggest in doing is to get a "spoon dolly" and try to pop the metal out as much as you can.you are going to have to remove the rear and rear left interior panels and remove the tail light to get to it. If you know a body guy, he prob has one. Another way is to strategically drill holes in to the metal and put a nail throught from the inside out and use a slide hammer to try to get the indentaion out as much as possible. the dent is never going to come out completely, the process is used so less body fill will be needed. Or you can cut it out and weld on a replacement piece. Just be sure to get a garrentee on color matching when going to get it painted. Its very hard to do even if you have the color code. Might as well get the whole car painted.

I know this is a stupid question and I know that you already checked but, just to make sure. Did you check to see if the sensor is at fault?

First of all Alginate cost about $150 for about 50 pounds of the stuff and a project that size would only need about 1-2 pounds. You can find Alginate even cheaper if you look for surplus alginate, And can get it even cheaper if its past its experation, it still has a 3 month shelf life after experation they lable it early becuase it originally made for dentistry. Second I never said that they needed to go buy a industrial size oven. I just stated how manufacturers are able to produce items with the carbon-fiber finish that would only need some trimming and some buffing, just to give them ideas on how they improve on their process. And if you re-read my post I stated manufactures use "resin preimpreganted carbon-fiber sheets," Obviously they aren'i using that. It just sucks when you put all this work into trying to get a clear resin finish out of an item, just to have to cover it up with body work just because of a few wrinkles.

There is an anime that has the 240z in it. I just recently DL it. Its eX-Driver the movie, not the one title Danger Zone" but the Other one.

VLC player- can play almost all completed video files. "the core media player"- I like it, but can be finiky some times. search VLC in google to find it. Search download.com the find TCMP (acronym).

That car isn't as bad as mine. The captions are there because someone wanted to buy the car but I decide not to because of stuff that happend. This shows what happens when body is not prepped for paint properly.

Looking at the posted pics. That process isn't what most manufacturers use to make CF item. They make a negative mold and lay resin preimpregnated carbonfiber sheets in, then they vacuum seal it and then bake it at 400 degrees for 3 hours to have the resin cure. End result would be a finished item that needs to be trimmed.

I just skimmed over the thread. What I sugest in doing is, When making the Positive part of the mold is to rough shape it as close to what you want and then use modeling clay (petrolium based), shape it to how you want and then heat it up with a heat gun or blow dryer to has the grease from it come out, this will help even the shape a little and will help the clay to be removed from the negative. when making a negatve to be used as a mold, before you start building the negative, lay a layer of Alginate (dentists use this to make molds of your teeth) over the positive and then build the negative off of that (A lot easier to separate the 2). then when making the actual dash, lay a THIN coat of vasilene over the Alginate and use a heat gun or a blow dryer to even the coat and start laying the CF or fiberglass. Maks the end product more finished and if there are blemishes, they are usually easy to wet sand and buff out.

Well the S30 static weight is ideal but the inertial weight causes the car to be slightly front heavy do to the tall L6 engine. I was thinking of mounting the engine about 5 inches (L28e) farther back because of it, also to move the shifter farther back as well. If possible I might have the engine mounts have the engine sit a bit lower as well. Just look for engine block weight and length and you can generally see how it will sit in the car. The 240z stock w/o the spare tire, gas and driver (with skid plate) should be about 52/48 front/rear, so I would imagine it would ride like a mr2 if you mount an engine like that with more power than the stock engine, but with the added power you should put in extra support as well. suspension settings can also cause the car to understeer as well.

Also missed is the floor boards. Coutch down and look underneath the car and see if there is rust damage.

One of the main reasons why no one ( that I know Of) has used fiberglass is because of thermal expansion and moisture incasement. Fiberglass doesn't expand and contract at the same rate, although the difference is minimal, overtime the it will be noticable.

If I recall miller makes guns and cables that should work with lincoln welders.

I like the second one better. Th front grille looks out of porportion IMO, it just looks so big. I think the drawing should be drawn in a 3/4 overhead view so the degree of how wide the fenders are are seen more easily.

The last 3 numbers are is the date it left the factory. Obviouslly it says june 74, but it could of been sold as a 75 model. does the area behind where the seats are have anything that would look like it was a storage area. If it does then its probably a 240z, I know 240z had that but not sure about the 260z.

I learned first hand to never order headlights off of ebay inless they are OEM. Had some for my jeep and they worked... just not so well. They were bright but distance sucked. Mine were advertised as HID but as naive as I was, I didn't know that you needed a HID circuit for it to be HID, but anyways it worked but the lens cracked becuase of the whether and it got so hot that the mud/dirt would dry and cake right on the lens.