240Z Turbo

I just went 11.2@130 with the Jatco and you can get performance clutches for it as well as line your bands with kevlar. I also have the specs for the valve body mods if you can verify that the 3n71B mods are the same as the 4n71b mods. You will need to call Level 10 performance to get those answers.

I like responding to my own posts to update myself! HEHE! I found an AL midplate for $125 with the Chevy/Ols boltpattern. It has no provisions for a starter so I can place it where I desire. It is 24"x24"x.25" so I can just trim the excess when I am finished. I will now get the pattern for the L6 and the 1st task is complete. Damn I'm good!

For those looking to bolt up a turbo 350 or the 200-4R Buick tranny to the L6, I am going to do the swap. I have been assurred that my Jatco unit will not take that much beating many more times at the track and I have no way with the L4N71B to lock the converter in 3rd gear. Also, the Jatco unit has no provision for a transbrake. So, I have decided to figure out what it will take to do the conversion and went to my trans guy to look at the tranny in question. It does not seem as big as the Jatco so I am confident it will easily fit in the tunnel with the engine as far back as it is. I will keep you updated and will begin my task this week in gathering all the info. Bolting the tranny to the motor will be as easy as buying a SB mid plate and overlaying the L6 bolt pattern and drilling the holes. The next task will be adapting the GN flexplate. I want to do the swap so that a stock gn converter can be used so people aren't spending an arm and a leg on a custom converter. Finally, I will have to adapt a starter to the car. I hope after this I can get some company to provide this to others.

The car may be a crap box as you have said, but your dyno numbers indicate you have atleast payed attention to the engine. Nice numbers!

Same problem as with the tech. You can try getting a signal from the #1 injector clip. Or you can try getting a signal from the power wire.

Uh TimZ, where is 0? 1 is 0 A is -3 2 is +3

As some have read the twinturbo went 11.2@130mph yesterday night. As you may know I used stock bands and OEM clutches and the trans seems to hold up just fine with no complications. The MPH calculates into about 474hp@wheels. Now, I was bouncing off the rev limiter through the traps with 7200rpm in 3rd(1:1 ratio). All 3 runs I floored the car were between 129.4-129.7mph, but 7200rpm in 3rd(1:1) with a 26" tire translates into 150mph. So, I am losing about 20mph because of converter slippage. Those who have considered the swap can now see what type of power the Jatco trans can handle. I will be sending the converter off sometime soon to have it evaluated. I am hoping that if the converter can be more efficient the car can run atleast 140mph with some further boost and tuning. Will keep you updated.

Ok, on all the runs w/out the NOS the car pulled to 7K rpm and the hp was still heading up. I never peaked the hp under 7K rpm. So, on the NOS run, 18psi & 100shot NOS, the tires broke loose at 5200rpm and the reading does not compute after that point. Therefore, the last reading at 5200rpm was 366hp and it was still heading up. We are going to hook up the magnetic pickup next time to read rpm directly from the engine. How it reads is to put the car in the gear you will make the pull and bring the motor to 3Krpm. You then let the dyno know you are at 3Krpm. It then knows your rpm based on the speed of the dyno. I know, it is a funky method because any tire spin will funkafy the results. Let us just see what the car does tomorrow at the track.

No, the 210hp are from the NOS, but the biggest increase comes from the fact that the car has full boost at 5200rpm and it does not without the NOS.

New update on the dyno run. Went back and looked at the runs at my buddies shop. It seems the setup was off by 2000rpm for some reason so I suspect the torque figures are not going to be correct. The 366hp@wheels was at 5200rpm, not 4450rpm as I had thought. Also, on every run the car made peak hp at redline which was 7000rpm and on some runs 7200rpm. The peak torque occurs at about 5700rpm if the torque curve can be trusted. Now, after printing out the NOS and non NOS 18psi runs, the car gained about 210RWHP and not the 120RWHP as I had thought at 5200rpm. I was accidently comparing the torque curve from the non-NOS run with the hp on the NOS run. Yes, the turbo's take that long to spool as I had the Profec B set on its lowest spool setting. I think I just need to redyno the car after the Mustang Dyno rep comes to do a training session.

I will have to print out the sheets and verify the RPM points shown on the graphs. Ok, first was to establish a baseline. All results are at the wheels and car tuned to 11.6:1-11.8:1. 10psi- 266hp & 310ft-lbs I was pleased with this for a baseline as my single T64 dynoed 310ft-lbs@19psi. 18psi- 326hp & 361ft-lbs Same as before...more boost, 8psi on the twins, and only 65hp. What the hell is going on with these results. The car feels much more different that just 65hp, but that is what the dyno says? I have been assured that an auto tranny will never read correctly on the dyno? It has got to be something with this damn tranny and/or converter. I did a calculation of power based on the injector duty cycle and it says about 485hp(crank). Scottie, don't get too excited yet...I then made another pass with the NOS. 18psi and 100shot NOS- 366@4500rpm Don't be fooled, the tires broke loose evertime over 4500rpm and I could not get a reading as the hp curve was heading straight up. Oh yea, this was good....The car gained 120RWHP at 4500rpm over 18psi with no NOS. I know this seems low, but the tires kept breaking loose at 4500rpm. I suspect it would read about 425hp if the tires would stick. It may be a good time to think about sticking a turbo 350 tranny in the car or going back to a 5-speed. Anyway, took the car out on the street and it is just brutal at 18psi with 100shot/NOS. I also did some lauches and the car hit full boost quickly out of the hole with the NOS. Scottie, you're gonna get a run for your money! SEE YA FRIDAY!

My buddy picked up a built turbo 350 for $850 ready to go with transbrake. It was built to handle 1200hp and it is behind his Pro Outlaw RX7. At low boost is has run a 5.9 in the 1/8. You can expect to pay atleast $550-$750 for a good converter.

It is all in fun. I will have little chance of beating the GNZ out of the hole. I can only hope to run a decent 60ft time and play catchup over the next 10-11 seconds!

I just want to apologize now for stomping a mudhole in your ass at next weeks drag race. Transbrake or not, 24psi on the twins and a 100shot out of the hole is the cure for the GNZ. BTW, I rigged the adapter plates to explode if you get ahead. I hope you can ride a wheelie all the way down the track! HEHE!

from what I remember, the V07 means it is an LD28crank. I called my local nissan dealer and asked for the part# for an 81maxima diesel crank.

Stony, I am so jealous and cannot wait until I enter the world of RB motors. Imaging a setup of bigger turbo's and 20+psi of boost on a daily driver. 500rwhp in a 240z would be utterly brutal and easily a low 10s street car. For now all I can do is twinturbo the L6 and squint my eyes while I imagine it was an RB26! For some reason no matter how hard I squint the intake manifold won't move to the other side!!! DOH! Congrats. I will do an 11psi dyno run this week with the new IC and converter. I hope it beats the 270RWHP I got last time I dynoed at 10psi. One positive note is that the converter was too loose and I ran 14.1:1 AFR on that run!

Take of the j-pipe and see if the compressor side is leaking any oil that would blow into the engine. Chances are that you have a bad piston ring seal on the turbine side that is causing oil to blow past the seal and straight into your exhaust stream where it burns and causes smoke. Make sure you do not have any oil on the plugs. If this is your problem it will usually smoke shortly after you start the car(within a minute) and then clear up. Rebuild time if this is the case.

Man, the 12.24@120.2 was almost 3 years ago with a single 60-1, 2.8L motor, open diff and worn street tires! CorZette(aka rip van winkle) must still be asleep. WAKE UP!!!!! New 3.06 motor, 400cfm more turbo, SS header, auto tranny, VLSD, CVs, Nitto Drags, NOS and the carbon fiber switch panel adds 43hp! Give a guy some credit here folks. Just for fun on the way to the race I will spank the GNZ from a roll so everyone knows who has the most power! HEHE!

Man, not much support for the L6 on this forum! I have to talk some smack to get this thing hyped, but in all honesty I will be hardpressed to beat the GNZ out of the hole because of his transbreak. Without the transbrake and that car is TOAST! Time to jet the NOS to a 100shot out of the hole and let us see if 20psi on the twins can whip the 24psi from Scottie's hairdryer turbo! Anyway, I stand by what I said that Scottie is due for a whippin' and will receive one in AL! I have added my new monster IC and oil cooler, put on my new Nitto Drags(275/50-15s) and added my new fuel pump. I will dyno tune the car this week to optimize cam timing and the rest is history.

Only 2 more weeks until I spank that ass right off the track! Should have stuck with the L6 while you had the chance. BTW, when the race is over tell me if I missed any dirt spots on the back of my car!

this is not the fastest. Kakimoto in Japan has an 8second 280Z that I have seen pictures of in a Australian Mag. Check out there website, they have alot of parts for the L6 motor including a custom 3100 valve cover! Kakimoto

If everything is in order with rockers and geometry then you will want to fast idle(3K-3.5K) the car for 15-20min. This keeps the oil pressure up and assures that the cam breaks in correctly. After this initial 20min break in you should be ready to go. However, being a new motor make sure to use a 10W-30 or straight 30W oil for the motor break in atleast the 1st 500miles.

I used a ratchet style B&M shifter and then modified the shift lever on the trans so it matched up with the shift throw on the shifter. You MUST get this right or you will not fully engage in gear and wear out your tranny!

I figured it had to be something with the layup using CF. Its drapability is alot less than that of most woven e-glass of the same weight. However, there are bi-directional knitted cf's that are much easier to form. Although not woven, they retain alot of the physical characteristics of a woven fiber. Hell, it is only a dash so strength is not a real issue. I will have to wait until school starts next week to get some pricing for you, but you can expect to pay in the $30/yard range.

Just divide the lb/hr by .07 and it gives you a round-about on cfm. So, 50lbs/min is 50/.07=714cfm. To get the hp you can achieve with this turbo divide by 1.6. So, 714/1.6=446hp that can be achieved with 50lbs/min of flow. This is gives you an idea of what you can expect it to make on an L6 motor with a given turbo. So, with a T66 turbo you can expect to make (72lbs/min)/.07=1029cfm 1029cfm/1.6=643hp Jeff, as far as the external wastegate goes, if you should decide you should get the best since you like spending money on fancy things. The HKS 60mm is the way to go, but packaging may be an issue unless you can come up with fancy install. It is easily doable if you run an on-center t4 housing as TimZ and Joel have done. The flex section was 2" as I could not find that accordian style in 1.75". I modded it to work with 1.75" pipe and it is all SS. I would be willing to sell it to you for $50 shipped. It cost me $52, but then I had to mod and weld it to go to 1.75". It also has SS clamps as back up.