240Z Turbo

BTW, you have done a nice job on the dash from what I can see and it is fair to mention that CF is a stiffer material depending on the weight of fiber used, therefore a bit more difficult to work with in hand layup applications.

Well, my research is in composite materials and CF is about 2x that of a decent woven e-glass fiber. However, you can use about 1/2 as much CF to get the same strenght as a similar e-glass unit. With all things equal I do not understand the $350 difference in price between the CF and e-glass piece. I would be willing to pay $300-$350 for a CF part. When you mention that NSX and Viper guys pay $2K plus for CF stuff, that is just because those people probably wouldn't trust it if it were cheap in price. They like spending the money on fancy overpriced stuff. Hell, it is like paying $3000 for an HKS turbo or you can get the same Garrett Ballistic series turbo for $1500. Same thing, just no HKS logo!

What, the mighty Lockjaw doesn't understand and 4 out of 5 turbo builders say low boost is harder to control. I thought you had an answer for everything Lockjaw! I can't believe I ever doubted you after seeing you ran 112mph in your turbo car! As Tim said, the more boost run the more exhaust is generated. There is no R&D necessary to say that after 400hp an external wastegate is advised. Run the biggest baddest Mutha you can get, HKS GT(60mm) and be done with it. After that you can slap on any turbo up to 1200hp and have no worries about the wastegate being too small. If you want, I can get you a good deal on an HKS GT wastegate just because you NEED an external wastegate. If I tell you that my 57trim was having serious creep issues then what the heck is a 62-1 gonna do? Hell, my stock wastegate holes in my two 16Gs were too small causing the boost to get out of control. When the RPM hit 6K the boost would spike to 22psi and that is through two 22-24mm holes. I ended up milling the holes to about 35-37mm or so on both turbo's. This whole thread makes no sense to me. The stock wastegate hole WILL NOT WORK for your 62-1, but you would rather put the setup together and find out for yourself and then tear it right back apart to make the mod you should have done in the 1st place. I will make this offer now to get you a good deal on an external wastegate for your setup. If you use that internal wastegate the deal will be gone. If you wonder why I get pissy it is because you have made this post for others to give input yet you choose to disregard the input. BTW, did you ever retard your cam timing so your motor would pull on the topend? Don't you just love this thread? On a lighter note, I finished welding up my new intercooler today and it looks monstrous! I will post pics soon. Here is a pic of my ported 16G's. Just to let you know, I had boost creep with 2 of these holes and your wastegate hole is the same damn size!

Well, seeing as my buddy Shaun just bought Kenny's old suspension setup I know the answer. They FWD guy are no longer allowed to preload the wheelie bars as they tear up the track. The purpose of the wheelie bars is to change the effective wheel base, length wise that is. By using soft springs in the back the load is then transfered onto the wheelie bars upon launching and extends the effective length of the cars wheel base by 3-4ft. The places more load onto the front tires thereby increasing traction. The wheelie bars have to be about 3" off the track with the driver in the car. I hope this helps.

It is just a taunting and has nothing to do with dirt roades in Alabama! Hell, when I visited Tim in Detroit I thought I was driving down an Iraqi air strip! The myth about the stroker being heavier is a myth from what I remember. The difference being about 2-3lbs. My crank is actually 84mm which is 1mm more than the LD28 crank and I spin my car to 7K all day long with no worries. I use the Euro pulley and have had no problems. I did spin the rubber on my 2.8L setup, but I think that was from getting oil on the pulley from a front seal leaking. My car hasn't hooked up because of crappy tires, but I put my new Nitto drags(275-50/15s) on the car Friday and do not anticipate traction problems. Lead weight, that was funny!

Wow, I go to the beach for a 3.5 day weekend and this! I am glad I don't fall into that "BIG TURBO GUY" bracket with my little 16G turbo's. Tim and Joel are the real enemies with their larger T-series monsters. JeffP you are on the right track with the 62-1, but I sure hope you are not running an internal wastegate. I just can't remember. I think the combo of the cam and inefficient compressor are killing the topend power, but it would not seem likely you would heat soak in a single gear pull that fast??? I saw that you keep advancing your cam timing, +4deg. Retarding gives better top-end power. You might try going the other way. TimZ can better explain the theory behind that one. As for me and my little turbo's, the new IC is being fabbed, new oil cooler being installed(TimZs old one) and the Nitto 555R's fit nicely under the back end! BTW, JeffP you need to drive your car to the Montgommery drag race event so I can stomp a mudhole in your ass! HEHE!

Stick your finger in the turbo flange and you will see that cylinders 1-4 enter the turbo through 1 small opening. About 3/4" to 1" of material can be removed from that area on the top side. You will understand what I mean. Also, port each opening. I spent about 4-5 hours porting my manifold. Alot can be done.

LockJaw, are you speaking of Walker building your turbo? Now the $475 I mentioned is from a different supplier. My buddies shop has swapped to a Garrett distributer and I can get anyone a brand new Garrett T3/TO4E(stage3), .63 a/r, and 50/54/57 trim for $600 with a 1 year. warranty. These turbos are all NEW, not used crap and are delivered w/in a few days to you. If you are interested send me an e-mail to my yahoo account. turbo240Z@yahoo.com I can also get full T4 turbos to your spec. BTW, these turbos do not include internal wastegates, but they can be added for an additional cost. BTW, I will dyno my car within 2 weeks and show the power curve. I just recently had my converter tightened up so it should make a big difference in the power output to the wheels. I dynoed the car about 2 months ago with the 5800stall converter @10psi. On the dyno sheet from 40mph to 84mph the curve was completely flat at 267hp@wheels. BTW, 84mph was about 6700rpm. The flat curve indicates that I was blowing through the converter as it was way too loose and inefficient. I suspect the new converter will put about 315@wheels at the same 10psi. Although I have not played with cam timing, the car seems to pull very strong to 7K at the current 15psi of boost. Some good news today, my Nitto Drag radials just arrived(275-50/15)

Come on guys, let us not beat around the bush! BTW, my cost on that turbo is $475 with all new Garrett stuff. Anyway, let us look at your dyno graph. You may have made 380hp, but for 1/10 of a second before it disappeared to 280hp@6500rpm. I am not knocking your setup and I am not mad, but I want you to reach your goal of 600hp. Also, the stage V wheel was around 5 years ago when I ran a hybrid turbo. What good is a turbo that spools at 3K makes peak power at 4K and is down at 5K. Although that seems to be more of a cam issue. Peak power from 4500-7000 is where it is at. Pull the car to 7K, shift and the next gear is still above 4500 and you are still in your power band. The only way to properly run that hybrid would be to run the monster HKS 60mm GT wastegate so that you do not have unwanted backpressure in the system. Also, will the shaft on a stage V wheel hold up spinning a T66 compressor at 30psi?? Probably not for long! Folks, I am not mad but why not skip the BS and go straight for a 600hp winner. Here is an option. run a big shaft P-trim in a european t3 turbine housing and run a GT 60mm wastegate. Also, what is the feasibility of flowing 600hp through the stock exhaust manifold. Remember, 600hp worth of air going into the motor has to be able to get out of the motor. JeffP, take it from me and others like TimZ about making alot of power. It is not impossible, but it takes some experience. TimZ please chime in on this one...I know you want to!

Sorry to be such the party pooper here. Stage V???600HP???? NO! What is it with wanting to do some hybrid turbo(t3/t4) to try and make 600hp. This is not a supra, not a Honda, not any of the above. It is a non-cross flow head, 2 valves per cylinder, yada yada yada! Hell, the technology is 20years old on this garret stuff. BTW, just measure your T04E compressor wheel and you can tell what trim you have. For what reason will they not tell you that you have a 54trim or whatever. If I buy something I sure as hell want to know what it is I am buying. Also, that turbo that you paid $1100 is a $650 turbo max. Unless you got the BB option which is not full BB. I give up...keep us posted.

The T66 flow 72lbs/min or 72/.07/1.6=642hp The T70 flows 84lbs/min or 84/.07/1.6=750hp Now, it won't make that on the L6, but you can base performance on what others have done. You can bet that you can get 70lbs/min from that T70 and that is well over 600hp. Don't even bother with some silly hybrid to make this power. Ptrim .58 will make the power you desire while maintaining some bit of spoolup. My buddies Honda made 554@wheels @30psi with a turbo that was equivalent to a T61-T64 through a Ptrim .58 setup. Figure about 25psi of boost to do it through a custom SS turbo header and you are set. Also, I think you might have to upgrade from those 420cc injectors!

Go to the local welding supply and buy 0 or 1G cable. Buy the smash on ends and you are ready to go. I ran both ground and power up to the starter from the battery. It is not ideal to just ground the bat to the chasis.

1:1 ratio is very good. FYI, my cam is a Web Cam that has a modified LC. Here are the rough specs: .488" lift 230dur@.050"(intake/exhaust) 110.5deg LC Yeehaw cowboy!

I just recently took out my tranny to have the converter(stall) lowered. Upon removing the converter there a bit of crap in the oil so I had the unit rebuilt. The crap was from boosting in OD and had worn the drum slightly. As far as 1st through 3rd gear they were in decent shape. I was running all stock clutches and bands. This rebuild I went to Red performance clutches and had the bands lined with Kevlar. I can get you the stuff for fairly cheap. Due to time constraints I did not get a chance to install the Kevlar bands and use the Borg Warner OEM bands. I run 17psi on my twinturbo setup and have no problems with it banging the gears. I WOULD NOT use Protorque for your converter as they are a bunch of BASTARDS and would not listen to my suggestions. Long story, but I think they are friends with Top End Performance. I can provide you with all necessary valve body mods and you will want to use the tranny from an 84-87 Starion as the later 88-89 requires some mods.

The Pierburg that Scottie and I run is rated at roughly the same 255L/h as the Walbro unit. Scottie has had no problems with the pump, but I see that anything above 17psi and my fuel pressure starts to drop. Even with the filter removed this is a problem. On my buddies Honda race car the Pierburg supplied 420FrontWHP and would not flow anymore. GN cars use less fuel to make more power and that is why they can use this pump for 600hp. Hell, they tune the EGO voltages to .8V under WOT. Now, the Supra intank pump flow about 305L/h and is said to be good for an honest 600hp. To answer your question, do not use the 190L/h pump, go with the 255L/h and you should not have any problems. I am going to sell my single Pierburg and go with dual Walbro's or dual Bosch Units on my setup. I have also found that Python Injection makes a pump capable of 730hp that is used on all their Venom race cars. It is difficult to find a pump solution without spending big bucks or running dual pumps.

I like the sport 450(hp) kit that uses the whimpy turbo and 420cc injectors. I can't respect a companies intent when they sell programmed ECUs through the mail thinking they will properly work. 90% of people I have heard use them have nothing but problems. You CANNOT create a fuel map for a specific car without the car in front of you! Most of the time the car runs lean and the drivability sucks. By the time you are done waiting for them to remap the ECU you could have just purchased an aftermarket fuel management system. Sorry, those are just the facts. Oh well, I'll take 3 JWT cams please!

I also have a twin turbo setup using 2x 16G's(7cm) with a 70mm TB

I have seen that Simon Degroot used this tranny and the Z bell housing for the swap. Most have said to get this tranny from a 240sx, but this tranny was also used in the Z31 non-turbo. Does anyone have specs on this tranny and is it much stronger than the standard zx tranny? Thanks for the info.

Yes, wonderful job Scottie...How ever did you come up with such a clever design? HEHE! Running over my crank HUH? Well, torque converter has been sent to Protorque to be lowered and as soon as I solve my fuel shortage issue you can consider the GNZ old news. Maybe if you had a real turbo???????? HEHE! Hell, when I win I won't know if I beat a 240Z...Grand National....or a Corvette!!!! What is that car again?????

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Rick, I looked through your setup and it is very nice. Why run the Super V wheel though? You need to be thinking much bigger than that for your monster setup. I would go full T4 if you could and a minimum of a 60-1 wheel. The .49 is way too small for your app. A properly sized T4 is a P-trim .58 a/r.

I ran 19psi and a 65shot jetted way too rich. With race gas I did not touch the timing and on the street I had a pressure switch cut it off at 8psi, only using it to spool the turbo. Running the NOS ontop of 19psi was definitely noticed. However, jetting it too rich made it start to crap at the top of 3rd gear. I went went almost 97mph in the 1/8th with the NOS as opposed to 94mph without it.

Well, your fuel pump should have some sort of check valve so that pressure does not drop instantly, but it seems that yours does not. My system will hold pressure for some time, but the Electromotive keeps my pump running while starting.

inlet/outlet on the turbo makes no difference. The plug in the back of the block(drivers side) is british pipe. However, british pipe and NPT are the same at 1/2NPT. So, you CAN just use a 1/2"NPT fitting with teflon tape. The disadvantage to going to the thermostat housing is that it will give you temp readings that are higher than the actual engine temps. This is because the coolant has just passed through hot turbo and is now headed towards your temp sensor. I would route it immediately after the thermostat housing, just before the radiator. You can splice in an aluminum tube to your radiator hose and place a fitting on it for the return line.

I assume this is an early Z? When you crank your car there is only 1 wire that remains hot and that is the one going to the coil. All others are disengaged to give the starter all the power. You need to locate this wire and use it to kick on a relay for your pump. This will solve your problem.