spotfitz

I found the same thing about 2 years ago when I was rebuilding my '74's suspension. It was also on the drivers side. I had considered relocating the pivot point, as many have done, but decided to eventually get camber plates instead. You can remove the washers and weld in new ones and/or relocate the pivot point while your at it. Replace the cross brace with another that looks better, which is what I did. Good luck.

What ever you do, don't try a ram jack between the door jam and the trans tunnel. I didn't do it, but painfully watched it done to MY '74, at the paint shop! Shims were eventually used, but it looks like your rocker is pushed in aswell. And yes, I love how cheap you can get a decent Z with minimal damage and turn it into a great daily driver for next to nothing. The hard part is having enough room in the driveway for all the great deals.

A friend of mine put MSA's body kit on his '78 and had the same problem. The kit didn't fit right and he had to "adjust it". He had to do some trimming and some cutting, but his turned out good with some patience, which I know from previous experience, body shops can't/won't afford to have. I would think with a 2 part epoxy or something like it the gaps could be filled and smoothed out to look presentable. One could even use fiberglass and mat to extend the kit to the body for a smooth fit. Whether they want to do it is beside the point. It needs to be made right. Hope it works out.

My money is on the hazard switch.

Don't bother taking all the manifolds off! Worry about that after you check the flatness of the head with a straight edge once you get it off. If it's straight then your o.k. Pull the distributor and wires. Unhook the electrical connections from the injectors, sensors and grounds from the intake manifold, then disconnect the exhaust manifold from the pipe and don't forget to pull the hose off the bottom of the intake that goes to the block. Disconnect the throttle. Unbolt power steering pump(if you have it), disconnect fuel lines and vacuum lines, marking them as you go. Then pull the valve cover and wedge your chain. Pull the cam gear and unbolt the head in the proper sequence. Don't forget the 2 bolts at the front of the head! Lift it straight up and set it on the fender with a blanket under it. One person can do it, but it's alot easier with a helper when it comes time to pull it/put it back on.

If it's just the head gasket then you'll be o.k. Even if you're running EFI it shouldn't take more then about 6 hours to replace it, aslong as the "while I'm at it" doesn't get you. Pull the plugs and see if there is coolant in one of the cylinders. I would guess #6. It probably blew between the water jacket and #6 at the rear of the block, unless your boosting. I just went through this very thing about 2 weeks ago on my step sons '83 after it overheated BAD. Maxed the digital gauge --> BAD! Head and block were fine though. Not the way I wanted to spend my Sunday afternoon, but it was running the next day. Good luck.

I don't know how I missed this thread. For some reason I doubt my '74 will be back together before March, but I'm up for watching and taking some pics. As described in my signature, Richland Hills here. Just east of Ft.Worth. Just look for the driveway with 3 Z's in it and one in the garage. Anyone need parts from an '81 2+2? Or the whole car? PM me

I had been following this thread since it started and it's nice to see one almost complete. I am just wondering the specs of the leds you purchased, because the link to Ebay is nolonger good. Is this what type of leds you purchased? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3861445693&fromMakeTrack=true

I'm still trying to figure out why I don't get emails from HybridZ about replies on posts I participate in. Luckily, I'm on here every day almost all day. fl327, I'll shoot you a PM shortly.

My girlfriend wants, how did she put it? " a symbol you wear on your finger", her best friend wants to arrange a big engagement party and <--her husband wants to throw a bachelors party. I may be in trouble. All I got so far is a couple DVD's, a coffee grinder and gift certificates for her and her mother at a massage parlor. I on the other hand got everything I wanted. 5MP digital camera, 10mile range walkie talkies(both for the car cruises/shows), door sill plates, home theater system for the living room and bedroom and some clothes.

Now that I see you are local, let me say welcome to the site. Have you started looking into a local club? If you haven't heard of any, we have Cowtown Z Club in Ft.Worth and Z Club of Texas in the Dallas area. We(Cowtown) just had our monthly meeting, which was a changing of the guards if you will. You can check our site http://www.cowtownzclub.org/ for the next meeting time and place or email me directly and I, or others from the club on this site, can get you the info you need to meet up with us next month. I look forward to seeing/hearing from you.

I know this doesn't help you right now, but it will in the near future. 3/4 down this page http://www.datsunrestore.com/photo4.html are these

Now you definitely have my ears open. I've been staring at that pile of exhaust parts from the turbo car every weekend wondering if I should even bother putting it in and upgrading later. As always, while I'm at it takes over!

With the degree numbers behind the dist. pulley it appears that you would need to find TDC on the motor and find 360* on the dist.(right now sitting at 270* from TDC) This would indicate which spark plug wire would go on the first number in the firing sequence, which is the wire the rotor would be pointing to at the time of TDC. This all assuming the belt is set properly between the crank and dist. I think a timing light would still work with this setup. The timing light would still flash at the right time to show what degree on the wheel you have it set for. This ofcourse is speculation, but it makes since to me? LOL This is a slick set up. I would love to have more details on it. I think jmortensen is correct on the turning of the dist. The set screw almost looks like a rod cap type configuration to hold the dist. in place. There probably is another screw located just below it.

I would love more info on this.

I've had several issues with the site today. 2 double posts after several attempts to make a post. I keep getting the same results when it fails. IE: Could not connect to smtp host : 10060 : A connection attempt failed because the connected party did not properly respond after a period of time, or established connection failed because connected host has failed to respond. DEBUG MODE Line : 111 File : D:WebHybridZphpbb2includessmtp.php Any help?

Ok, this is the second double post I've had today. I'll be posting in the site support forum.

Future installation suggest I get in on this post. I've been eyeballing all of these aswell. Does anyone have recommendation? I have been considering the Too Intense Restoration lights, but haven't heard of anyone using them.

"OOPS, I missed on the first hinge. We'll just bondo those extra 2 holes over later."

山下 Yamashita (under the mountain) 健太 Kenta (healthy and plump) I guess thats better then being under the ground, dead and decaying.