spotfitz

It appears this has not solved my problem after all. I cranked my '77 until the battery was dead this morning trying to get it started. This was the first high 20* day we have had since this problem arose. I got home this afternoon and jumped it off without a problem, in low 40* weather. I'm almost at my wits end with this. Cold start valve and cold temp work properly. TPS and AFM is adjusted. I can only think of one other thing that could possible cause this. Cold temp sensor, but I have replaced it with 2 other known good ones. Anyone help us on this?

I had the exact problem recently in my '77. When it was cold out it was a bear to get started. Taking several minutes of pumping the gas pedal while trying to start it before it would finally choke itself to life. Do you also have a "boost" spot in the gas pedal. Upon excellerating you can push the pedal down further and further until you hit this one spot and it seems to suddenly take off quicker? This is what I did to resolve it just this last new years day. This may not be the proper way to adjust the afm, but it worked great for me. Pull the cover off the afm. Crank the car and let it get warm. Reach into the afm and turn the "wheel" alittle bit at a time CCW. Then try it CW. I'll bet the engine revs higher going CCW, but only for alittle bit of a turn. Once you turn it to much it will drop the rpms down and alittle further it will die(or try to). If it does rev higher going CCW shut off the motor. You need to take the little screw loose(the one in the very middle section, with silicone on it) and turn the arms CCW by just a little bit. The out side edge of the arm should only move CCW about 1/8, probably less. Tighten things back up and bend the thicker arm back CW to get it to open the lead when the afm is at rest with the car off. Crank the car again and do the turning test of the afm again. If you can still get higher revs by turning it CCW, you may need to adjust it more. If you get higher revs CW you need to back it off more. Get it set right and it only drops revs turning in either direction. With all that done go for a ride. You've basically fooled the ECU into giving it more gas throughout the range of motion of the afm. Hopefully, you can thank me later. I know my neighbors have been thanking me ever since I did this. Hearing someone cranking their car up for 10 minutes at 5:30 in the morning would annoy me more then actually being the one cranking the car for 10 minutes at 5:30 in the morning.

Try his website: http://home.comcast.net/~pparaska/index.html

Looks to me like their trying to take on Viper, with it's looks. It's still pleasant to the eyes, but the lights and front fenders look alot like the lastest Viper to me. This is not to say I wouldn't drive one if it was given to me, but I wouldn't pay the monthly payments on one. Not on my salary atleast.

There will Always be someone faster. It's just the facts of life. Find the guy again, pick his brain and see what info you can get from him. It's always good to learn from someone faster then ones self. Everyone has trade secrets. Sorry for the loss, but there Will be others.

Thought I would include an update for those that will run into this problem. I went out today, thinking the worse, with a pair of pliers and attempted the unthinkable. I clamped them down and I can only assume from the "cold" Texas weather, the key easily turned to the off position. Upon removal of the '74 key, I inserted the '77 key and all was well, with abit more stiffness then before, but almost effortless, nonetheless. Thanks for the help guys. On a lighter note, I know the '77 key works in the '74, and Almost vise,versa.

I have recently been driving my '77. On my key chain I have both keys from my '74 and '77(In the dark, it is hard to determine which is which). I put the wrong key in tonight(the '74 into the '77) and I can't get the damn '74 key out. I found this out after it went into the "on"position. To top it off, the only way I can shut the '77 off now, is unplugging the ignition switch. The key won't turn, but to the start position. My '77 is now sitting in the driveway with the key in the ignition, in the "on" position, with the ignition switch unplugged. I'm hoping that I can get it to the start position atleast one more time to atleast get it out of the driveway to get my daily driver available(it seems to stick, avoiding the start position). What can I do? I've thought of taking the ignition switch out, but then what? This made for an interesting night. I doubt a locksmith could help me on this one. Any advice? I really don't want to replace all the locks on my '74 and '77. This is becoming a very expensive evening "out on the town"!

With the picture just posted, it seems that this has been a misconception. Even with the arc in the tie rod end, it appears that from the rack and pinion intersect point that the tie rod(from start to finish in a straight line as shown) is actually on the same plane as the control arm. The arc has nothing to do with the pivot points, so, going by this picture, why does it appear to be in the "right" positon? It also appears that this is a lowered Z, in relation to the cross member. BTW, since installing bump steer spacers on my slightly lowered Z(only due to driveway clearance) I have found I have understeer. I was curious if this was a side effect of over compensating for the problem? Or was this just lack of power?

I would try to find out if indeed you have an aftermarket cam, as mentioned. You could also reverse the order you adjusted them the first time. Meaning if you start from the front and worked your way back, now start from the back and work your way forward by rotating the crank the other direction. Should take care of the problem of it cooling down, if slow at adjusting. You can also adjust 4 at one turn of the crank to speed up the process. The lobe doesn't have to be exactly straight up for an accurate adjustment. As long as the rocker isn't on the "ramp" of the lobe, the base circle is the same. It's alittle harder to keep track of which ones you've done though. Hope this helps.

It's really nothing but a photo album with some discriptions, but it's dial-up friendly(as far as I can tell) and I can now link pics from it, instead of seeing little red X's within a box. Hope you enjoy. BTW, let me know how dial-up friendly it is.

I have posted some update pics in my album, as promised. It's getting there. It's still expected to be done some time in January. Enjoy!

Thanks for the words of motivation. BTW, I'll have updated pics on Saturday. Interior got painted and more bodywork was completed. It's getting so close to coming home. I guess I need to complete the garage clean-up.

I had the "recommended" camaro radiator in my Z for awhile. I was planning to do the V8 conversion and had a chance to get one new for a good price. I eventually put the stock one back in and it has been sitting in my garage ever since. With that said, it's up for dibs. I would prefer not to ship(RPMS, hint, hint) and I won't be asking to much for it.

Ok, proof that I actually deserve to be in with the club. See new sig pic. Alittle blurry, but what can you expect from it going by so fast BTW, I posted some out of date pics of progress to my album.

I seldom ever give updates on how my Z is progressing, but I'm getting alittle excited so... I should be getting my '74 back from paint jail in January sometime. They have had it since about September, which was the plan. I needed time to pay for it, while they needed time to make it look good in their spare time. Since dropping it off it has taken on a life of it's own, as they usually do. Everything exterior wise was already stripped, excluding the suspension.(See sig pic) Since then I have removed all the interior, which includes all the dash, heater core, a/c and associated mechanical devices, gas/brake/clutch pedals and associated hardware, seats and rear sound deadening material(where I found the first signs of surface rust). As discussed in another thread the rubberizing material that I was told would be good for the floor boards(before I knew of POR-15) has not kept the rust out. Once she makes it back home I will carefully remove all the crap from the floorboards and prep with the magical material that is on ALL suspension components thus far. I will then take on the fun of putting the interior back together with all the new parts I have been spending every extra dollar on, that hasn't been going towards the paint job. The turbo block has been rebuilt, sitting on the stand for the past 6 months, wondering what is taking so long. I have the non-egr intake waiting for me to stop working so much to pay for the paint job, ready for smoothing. P90 head needing a rebuild(all parts excluding cam already purchased) standing on the floor. I even have the EFI wiring harness and CPU, which will only be for schematic purposes, due to the fact that I'll be going engine management(which one I don't know yet). Ofcourse then I need to pick the turbo and cam. Then all thats left is to get the SS turbo header/exhaust made and tune. Yeah right. Look for future updates in about 2 months, when I actually finish the interior, almost, maybe. BTW, Pete, I'm catching up. Going on 7 years PS, Should I have put this in announcements?

If you switch out the planetary/spiders, you will need to relash it.

http://home.cfl.rr.com/scottiegnz/gnz.html There you go

I didn't have such good luck using the spray on rubberizer stuff on the interior floorboard. I used the stuff recommended by the paint supply house that turns the rust to black "primer" and then put the rubberizer on, after clean up. My floor boards are still rusting from underneath the rubberizer. I use to have just one hole, now I have three from rust. Just thought I would voice my opinion. Hopeit helps.

I started punching in different varitions of webcam,webcamshaft. What ever you do Tim, don't go to webcams.com You'll be there for hours with your credit card out. But I think this is the link he was wanting to post: http://www.cyberauto.com/index.php/webcam.htm Good luck!

I unfortunately didn't jump on the boat, do to another Zcar mag, until after a year circulation. I have been a loyal patron ever since. Renewal was sent acouple weeks ago and I mention the mag to all the new people in our club as they show up. I guess I missed the back issue with the 2 year subscription promotion. I've planned to order the back issues as money permits. Painting a Z gets expensive! BTW, I'll be contacting you soon.....

The guilty' date=' as charged. Thats just comical. I have the mechanical problem, but mostly with friends. Whether it be, "can you help me this weekend to get my car started that hasn't run in several [b']years[/b]", or "my car is overheating and I can't see any liquid in the radiator". Friends, got to love them. As for computer problem, everyone I know has a clue how fast I can reformat a hard drive(do to experience) and don't want me touching their pc. This is a good thing

Oh, com'on now. Knee surgery? I have 2 bulging discs in my neck and I can still stand on my head pulling the dash out of my Z(in the begining of a cold front) while I save money for the knee surgery. Welcome to the club, and yes, far better then NIC! Is that still a club? Haven't been to that forum in ages. Well, on the ocassion I'm looking for stock parts, used.

What I did with the tach in my early 260 using the MSD 6AL was replace it with a 280 tach. No need for an adapter then. Simple plug and play.

Wires are clipped for the different cylinders, as mentioned. It shouldn't be much of a problem to switch it from 8 to a 6 cylinder though. As I recall you don't have to clip for an 8 cylinder, but you do for a 6 or 4. Everything else is just wiring it up to dizzy and ignition.

majik16106, What is the 4th car(blue one) in your 3rd post. It looks like a Z31, but from that angle something looks different about it.