spotfitz

That is one slick engine bay. I love the "seemless" look. I had considered doing it, but it takes so much time to look right. You have done an excellent job!

Think about what is going on when you pull up to a red light and it's raining and at night. You need alot more power to keep the car running along with the wipers, lights and still keeping the battery charged. I've had my tape player slow down before. Sounds pretty funny at the time, but it also got me worried. If you're drawing the ? amps for idle, what are you drawing with the other necessities? With a 60 amp alt you can easily max that out pretty quick. Thats not to mention all the poor connection in our Z's and how there routed. Not that it's ever a good thing to over-come the power loss through the connections with a high out-put alt. but I have found less problems with my z when I had the 100 amp alt. compared to the 60 that was in it.

Should be the exact same parts. The cross member I have on my early 260Z is actually from a '78 280Z. Comparing the 2, they were identical and my original front control arms fit without any problem. From what I've seen '70 to atleast '78 have the same front crossmember and control arms. It's the spindles, hats and strut tubes that changed throughout those years. There are acouple good write ups on the front control arm inner pivot point relocation. It is mainly used to help remedy bump steer(your search topic) on lowered Z's. I don't see why it couldn't be used to fix your problem. If this is done you wouldn't need to replace the control arm unless it is bent. You can interchange the sides they go on, just like the rear control arms. It's the bushing that determines which side it goes on.

We'll, I put the whole sheet up, but because of the limitations of the forum, thats about as good as you can see it.

I finally got it to work, check my personal album. Told you I could do it. I just had to be fully awake. It is only really viewable in full size browser window.

^%$(*)%&^&( oh damn, I mis-spelled screw u Try to get my sympathy.

One good thing though, it almost looks like a Datsun from behind.

You could try a new front cross member and right control arm, but I doubt that would fix it. There is the relocation of the front control arm pivot point, which in most cases would fix it, but if your unable to fix it with this mod, then I would think Camber plates would be the only way to go.

Besides what was already mentioned, there are the single and dual hatch struts/stays. All the hatches I've seen(which I have one of each in the garage right now) allow for the use of both struts, but you will have to drill out the holes for the previously un-used strut placement on the hatch. This being the case if you wanted to use a 240 hatch on a 260/280. As far as what mount(s) you will have in the 240 for the 260/280 hatch, I am not sure. I own an early 260.

Looks like Sunday is the day for it as that is the day the car will be most accessible. Cody, I'll PM you the details shortly.

Send it to me. I can down size it for you.

Check ZTherapy.com They have some good descriptions of where everything is at, w/ pics.

I've been wanting to see some track times aswell. I think he maybe worried of breaking something. Come on now Phantom, I know your not scared of that. Lets go to Ennis. I would love to see you spank some stangs. Maybe some hondas like I did, but I'm sure you'll run much faster times. You know if you don't, I Will give you a hard time. I'll even drive my 2k blazer sport down there and I'll bet I'll beat my Z's time, And some Hondas.

Hope he heard back in a timely manner. Had to work late. Now, Cody 280ZXT, you're going to help, right. I'll pick you up.

Along with the beer(I'll supply the pizza ) bring all the extra new gaskets you have and I'll see if I need any of them. About time I got my Z painted, huh Scott! I may need help getting my Z on the car hauler though. hint, hint. Thats one of the reasons the brakes will still work until I get it to paint jail. Steep driveway

I had replied to your other post about this. I didn't see this post yet. I am willing to help store the Z. I have a place to keep it that is lit and gated at night, after business hours and someone is always able to watch it during normal business hours. Inspection, tags, doesn't matter. And if you don't come get it for 5 months it will look just right next to my boss' bronco which has been sitting for more then 5 years! After 6 months you can just sign it over to me We would just need to get it from addison to almost Ft.Worth, but I have a truck and access to a car hauler. I think I could go get it this weekend. Come on, tell me you love me Email me if interested.

I've used go-jo and a scrub brush with good results in the garage. Girl friend was so pissed at me when I changed the oil and spilled some. I didn't have time to think. --> Home-Depot has some stuff for driveways. Can't recall the name though.

Ok, I have some vacation time coming up, so I'll see what I can figure out on the costs. Roughly 19 hours, 1160 miles one way from Ft.Worth to Cleveland. Thats a trip, especially considering one would have to drive back. So, lets figure 4 days, or 3 very long days round trip, plus gas in a truck pulling a flat bed/car hauler. So, about 12-14 mpg(with a very good truck), making it 167 gallons, if you went with 14mpg at a cost of roughly 1.65 per gallon=$274 excluding tax. Now lets figure in the food. We'll go with 3 days, since there really isn't anything to look at between here and there . I don't normally eat breakfast so, $15-19 a day for both lunch and dinner w/snacks. That comes to $51 dollars for an average for all 3 days. We are now at $325. Now if you are flying down, a one way ticket from Cleveland to D/FW is just under a 4 1/2 hour a.m. flight one-stop for about $230 from most of the webfare searchers. We won't even figure the short trip to the airport to pick you up. You're already at $555 and the above food average was for just one person both ways. Go ahead and say an even $600 because we will need lots of deodorant since we'll be sleeping in the truck for 1 night on the way up. If you didn't fly down then it would save money, but we haven't even started to consider how much $ you would need to give someone to go in on this 3 day road trip. I think we would be almost back where we just were. I am in no way trying to talk you into getting a freight delivery and in no way trying to talk someone out of helping you out here, but most freight services are pretty good with there prices, as I have tried to point out for you. I was actually considering going for it with some vacation time I have left, but I guess I'll leave that for you to decide. Just out of curiosity, what was the price quote for freight?

I must know. I can see that all the SS has either been powder coated or painted over. Which is it, because(from what I can tell from the pics) it's a dead on match. My next question is, how did you get the window gaskets in the same color? I am getting mine painted soon and want some feedback if your SS has been powder coated.

Well, it looks like I will NOT be making this event with my Z, but I will hang out. I already started taking my Z apart for paint jail. All I have left to pull is the motor/tranny, everything out of the engine bay, front bumper and lights. I sure hope I have all the gaskets I need from MSA. Got to love carb'ed cars at times like this!

If you use the points described at the rear of the frame rail end/reinforcement point, be careful when pulling the motor with the rear suspension still in. Once the front suspension is off and the engine is out, while the rear suspension is in, you can actually pick the front of the Z up off the jack stands easily with the rear jack stands at that spot(becomes the pivot point). It is very easy for you to push it off the stands this way. Don't bother asking how I know this. Unfortunately, there really isn't a better place to put them. I personally would put it up on the stands in the places described, pull the motor and then the rear suspension and then worry about the front suspension. In That order. Otherwise you have an unstable accident waiting to happen.

I would first clean every connection you can find. That would include all male and female connections of any terminal, including(especially so) grounds. Sounds like you have something pulling juice while the car isn't running if you have +12 while running. Start checking the voltage while the battery is hooked up. Once you have a base line, start pulling fuses, while checking the base line with each fuse. Once you have found the fuse that is causing the drain then you have found the problem(maybe one of several). Keep checking until you have run out of fuses and the one time you had the least amount of current is the problem. Once you have found the problem in that circuit then do the test all over again. Again, the least amount of current directs you to the problem area. Might be a good idea to clean the terminals at the 3 fusible links before attempting any of these tests. Also, check the connections just behind the fusible links, just in front of the battery. These are known to get corrosion build up.

H. Garcia, On it's way...

And just think of the garage they could have built with all that material. Being it didn't stay together through the storm, it may have been better for them to build THAT instead.

Thanks clint78z, I just love the people on this site.