spotfitz

Does she have a sister?

They just pull off the door. They basically just snap on. With the window all the way down you can get a screw driver under it from the inside at one end or the other and pry up. This will keep from hurting the paint on the outside. You might want to put a towel or something on the door panel to avoid damaging it.

Excellent find and good reading. A little late for me since I already installed a "one wire", but not to late to use some of the other offerings from that company in parallel with what I am doing with my electrical system as of late. I now plan to rework some of my charging system and distribution blocks to reflect some of the thinking in that article. Thanks for sharing your findings.

Once I pulled my hatch off in prep for paint I noticed that there was a big hole in the rubber seal, just inside where the hinge mounts. I had looked for a replacement part, but no luck. I plan to treat the metal showing and POR-15 the opening. Should seal out any weather and keep cancer from collecting. The hinge will cover almost anything behind it. I must admit, I think POR-15 is one of the few companies that will keep my Z around for years to come.

Being I'm about to go through this same transition, from n/a(actually carb) to turbo, this is perfect reading material. I now look forward to the learning experience and the challenges that await me!

Being I'm about to go through this same transition, from n/a(actually carb) to turbo, this is perfect reading material. I now look forward to the learning experience and the challenges that await me!

As per the down pipe I just measured in the garage(stock '81), it is roughly 3 9/16" from center to center on the bolts and those bolts are roughly 2" from center of flange. There are fairly accurate measurements made with a tape measure, but I'm sure they are suppose to be in MM.

You have the 14mm(pretty sure) at the top of the adaptor. Then there is where the lines connect to the adaptor. The one closest to the front is bolted to a hollowed out bolt which passes through the adaptor into the block, just like the normal oil filter would. If that didn't make any sense. Pull the front line off and remove the big bolt the line was against before you took it off.

Since I just got almost everything for a turbo upgrade, I may be willing to purchase your turbo. Let me know

When it comes to project cars, it's like life. It's not the destination, it's the journey. Take your time and learn asmuch as you can along the way, just follow through with your ambitions. I feel all philosophical all of a sudden. If you are willing to tackle a project like this, then I say, best of luck. If you feel confident in your drive and patience to finish something like this then my hat off to you. I personally would love to take on a project like this. It's almost like building a car from scratch9which I've thought long and hard on), but not nearly as complicated. I recall articles in mags and on the web in which I see guys making whole body panels, from a sheet of flat metal. Wasn't there an MGB once being built and posted on the web that was in far worse condition then this mis-neglected Z. I even remember a midget that was being stretched width wise by about 5-6". Now that would be an undertaking! It has been done before and if there is help out there, here is the place to start. I hope you can keep this Z away from the scrap yard. We all know they are getting harder to find.

I didn't see a catalog, but I think this is what they are talking about: http://www.streetrodcatalog.com/manufacturers/streetandp/bracket-streetandp-chevy.shtml Oops, online catalog: http://www.tunedport.com/ Yes, I'm bored and I have to be up in 6 hours for work. I sometimes hate going to the Z Club meetings. I can never get to sleep afterwards.

Without the Stainless Steel the seal doesn't have the pressure to seal the edges, as is needed. What I plan to do(which I do believe Pete did on his Z) is to have the SS powder coated. I won't be going black, but thats another story all together. BTW, from what I have gathered, it is usually best to seal the window gaskets with silicone on the body side before putting the SS in. I don't see why this wouldn't work without the SS with enough silicone.

Now thats just NOT right. lol

That last pic you posted just makes me drool. Very nice job.

I just so happen to have the bill sheet from the rebuild. Teardown, clean, glassbead and inspection. Install int. and exh. valve seats. Polish valve stems. Surface -.010. It has a Crane "performance" cam. I'll try to find out exactly which one later. Z Club meeting tonight, so.... Oops, found it before I left. This is the cam spec sheet from Crane: http://dab7.cranecams.com/SpecCard/DisplayCatalogCard.asp?PN=168-0012 Although this doesn't go along with the numbers on the sheet I have for the same part number. Go figure. Here's what the sheet says. 292 @ .450 int. 292 @ .450 exh. advertised 272, 282 duration

My first suggestion would have been the ignition switch(mine did the same thing once and it was the switch), but since you replaced it... Try checking the wire coming from the harness right beside the starter that goes to the lug on the solenoid.

Looks like more dollars then cents.

Why not use a '75-'76 tank? It bolts into the stock location and is already set up for EFI. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize that without people trying to develop new ideas we would still be pushing big carts with rock wheels around.

I located an E31 head that has been rebuilt, but with all original equipment(basically stock), except a moderate cam. The springs are original, but everything else is new. What would be the going rate for something like this. It has never been bolted back on a block. I want to purchase it, but don't have a clue as to what a good offer would be.

If your going to use a short strut insert(w/ spacer) without sectioning the struts make damn sure you use a bump stop. You could end up with a wasted strut insert otherwise.

Maybe that will help BTW, from what I had bought about 6 months ago, all four tokico struts were the same size. A pair needs spacers under them. Can't recall which ones though.

Check my photo gallery. I just uploaded a pic pointing out where the bottom of the old spring perch was. You will cut the perch off just above the weld. This will give you a stop for the new seat that the collar will rest on. Hope it helps. Sad part is, I can't even view my own gallery. All I see is red X's Hopefully you have better luck seeing it.

Afew magazines, must have been "Toys-R-Us"

Now thats a rock! Being one of my previous boss' owns a jewerly store and I knew all the employees that made the jewerly, I can safely tell you that looks like one nice and very expensive diamond ring. Phantom, you get a chance, let me know the specs. It looks very clear from the pics. Excellent color quality.

For a temporary fix on the throttle shafts you can pack them with a heavy grade grease. As stated, it is a temporary fix.