spotfitz

A utility sink for clean-up. Parts cleaner bin can be hard on the hands. Always need a bathroom in the garage, especially when your dirty.

My bad, but you knew exactly what I was talking about, nontheless. I loved the drag queen imitation. "who's the kitty?" And the anal leakage. lol

Just like a dog when he wants to pee on everything in sight when taken for a walk. If anyone has seen Robin Willams, live in Hollywood, you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. Damn, thats a funny man.

Minus the blue virsus yellow, do they all look the same to you? I have always enjoyed the ethnic difference in our country and would love to "settle down" with someone of oriental accent, but it's getting to hard to find someone in our country that isn't Americanized.

No one was able to run a 320mph without a little patience. I for one would love to hear the results of this discussion, but only time will tell.

After seeing some of the lastest pics of weird products being used for wings I knew it had to be. I keep seeing images of the ironing board on the trunk of some car. That was priceless.

It's all about the down force. Should have plenty with the matress.

BTW, I'm going to be selling my setup soon. ZTherapy polished SU's, K&N filters, ceramic coated intake and fuel rail. These are all sitting on the bench right now and I don't plan to put them back on my '74 because I have almost everything to go turbo, once I get her painted. I have over $800 invested in the setup. You can see a pic of the setup below.

Have you tried searching for MBC(Manual Boost Control) in the turbo/supercharged forum?

I would HIGHLY recommend ZTherapy's carb video. It is very informative on the cleaning and adjustment of the SU carbs and informative on alot of other aspects of the carberated Zcar. I'm hoping you have everything clean inside and out of both carbs by now and hopefully you didn't mix up parts between the 2 carbs. Don't bother with taking anything off the linkage, just spray it with carb cleaner to get it cleaned. As for the piston not rising like it should, you may need to loosen the dome screws alittle(the domes or pistons may have even be switched from previous owner, but don't switch them, yet). Loosening the dome screws can help as I've seen the dampener shaft bent before. You should also have the dampener removed during the raising and dropping of the piston(sorry I didn't mention that before, this is the little black knob on the top of the dome). I assumed you would know that. Lets start with the nozzle and nozzle housing again. (look at the third pic again)At the base of the carb body there will be a nut, which should be tight and just below that there should be a spring with a finger grip knob(which should turn) and then there is the nozzle(the part with the hose connected to it) going into all of it. On some year model carbs there is a "flat disc", as ZTherapy calls it. This is nothing but a lock nut, basically. It does nothing more then keep the adjustment knob(finger grip) in one spot. You may have to loosen this to turn the adjustment knob(finger grip). The finger grip knob, just below the spring and above the nozzle(which has the hose connected to it), IS your adjustment knob for mixture. If looking down at the carb from above, you will turn this knob counterclockwise until it stops and then turn it clockwise 2 turns. If your needle in the piston is in it's proper place then your mixture should now be set. Leave the the dampener knob off the carbs, put the carbs back on and hook everything up as it was, except the air filter. You should now be able to atleast get the car running again. Put alittle oil in the hole where the dampener knob was and replace the dampener knob(I prefer Marvel Mystery oil). Push the piston all the way up to set the oil level. Start the car again(it may smoke for alittle bit). Email me or reply to this post when you get to this point. I'm always on here and will reply within the day, usually. Sorry, getting rather late and don't want to give you bad info.

I don't think you need a poll for if you need to replace the camera. lol It also appears you haven't checked ZTherapy.com out, or you would know what that "part" is and what it does. That "part" in your pic is the nozzle and nozzle housing. The hose connected to it comes from the float chamber. The level of the fuel in the float chamber (determined by the float) allows a specific amount of fuel to sit at the same level in the nozzle, in which the needle is inserted from the bottom of the piston. The needle/piston combination determine how much of that fuel enters the intake via, how much of the needle is in the nozzle. The choke pulls the nozzle down from the needle allowing more fuel to enter the intake at any given RPM. The only thing holding the nozzle in is the hose from the float chamber and a bar connected to the throttle shaft, which brings us to your pics. Here are acouple pics of the throttle linkage, courtesy of ZTherapy. (ZTherapy.com, btw) Ignore the captions in the second pic for this discussion, include the caption in the first pic(if the needle, the part you have circled, doesn't stay pushed up by itself then follow the directions in the first pic, "bend spring") . Both pics are of the same linkage, but different views(from what I can tell by the extreme close up). Once you've figured out what is to be bent on the front carb, from your pics and the ones I have pointed out then you can figure out what is to be bent on the back carb. BIG WARNING THOUGH! If you don't know what you are doing by bending the spring for more tension on the nozzle you can screw it all up, for lack of better words. ALSO, if the nozzle isn't even the problem, but the "part" the nozzle goes in is loose you will have to use the piston and the needle to align and tighten the housing("part") the nozzle goes in. Here is a very good close up of a 1600 roadster carb that shows all the components in proper alignment. For this discussion the pic works. The roadster carbs are almost identical to our Z carbs. You can clearly see the piston with the needle coming out of the bottom going down into the noozle housing. The idea is for the needle to drop freely to the bottom of it's travel without rubbing on the noozle, which is at it's highest point of travel. If it doesn't rub then it's ok. If it rubs then the nozzle housing("part") will have to be aligned using the lock nut, visible in this last pic just below the carb body. With carb in a postion like it would be on the car, loosen the nut, drop piston putting the needle into the nozzle, while nozzle is in it's highest point of travel and slowly tighten the nut. Now while holding the nozzle up, pick the piston up and lightly drop it in it's bore. You should here a clunk. If not, loosen the nut and start over. If you do hear a clunk then slowly raise and lower the piston and feel for resistance of it's travel. Keep playing with loosening the nut and aligning it until you feel no resistance in the movement of the piston/needle. Now you can put everything back together and adjust the carbs. If I just wasted my time on this very long post and you thought the needle wasn't suppose to move, don't tell me.

As you can tell by the late reply, I was reading old posts from a search and saw this one. Checking for wiped cam lobes, you'll need to take a caliper and check the overall lift and base measurement of each individual lobe and compare them. If one or more is drastically different, then you have found a problem. I would almost bet if there isn't a problem with the lobes then the springs are your next logical choice. I hope that you have already found the problem and I would love to hear the results.

What ever you do, don't bother with the perma-cool fan. Mine didn't even last 9 months, with a relay. The thermo sending unit didn't even work when I got the setup new. The taurus fan has worked flawlessly ever since though and it was used.

I have POR-15'ed ALL my suspension parts, except the differential and the coil overs. The latter is powdercoated and anodized(depending on the part)and I haven't seen a chip, scratch or scuff in any of the POR-15, but I have chips in the coil springs, which are powder coated. I plan to do more powder coating, but not anywhere rocks can get to it. Not nearly are tough as I was expecting it to be. Is the powder coating on coil springs softer, to flex with the spring?

I could watch this type of racing for hours on end.

It's just amazing all the conversions that are coming out since GM produced the LS series. A welcome site! Excellent conversion BTW. Almost looks stock.

Welcome to the board. The JTR swap kit will not help much for the LS6 or any LS series motor for that matter. That series uses another type of motor mount in a totally different location. With the auto, the speedo cable should work. Their radiator is somewhat on the marginal side for cooling. The Griffin radiator would be a better way to go and pushes the limits of required size. With using this radiator you won't need their radiator supports(if you want their recommended radiator, I have one that I'll let go pretty cheap, plus shipping). Have Griffin fab some tabs similiar to stock and use some rubber between the radiator and support. Going carb is a good thing to start with, getting the car on the road sooner. Dragging a project out will always make you wonder what your putting yourself through and to what extent. Make a plan and stick to it, as you've stated. That is about the only way you will ever accomplish your goals. All these statements are based on the assumption that JTR hasn't actually came out with an LS series swap manual yet. I haven't checked their site in some time now.

In a word, yes

We used the Home Depot stuff at work in a previous shop and it didn't hold up very well in the high traffic areas. Started coming up in those areas after about 6 months of high traffic use. With saw dust on this stuff it got very slick. I could pull myself up from the splits with just my legs. Won $10 once from it

Check the memberlist at the top of the page. Should keep you busy for atleast a week w/ 5k members.

Sure you wouldn't want to get a ceramic coated intake, fuel rail and the polished Ztherapy SU's(w/ stock needles and SM's)W/ K&N's dual air filters for $500(shipped) rather then pay $600 for just the carbs? I'm selling my setup because I am going turbo. I have almost everything I need for the conversion, just have to wait until my Z gets back from paint jail. Here is a pic of the setup: http://www.geocities.com/spotfitz/Z-engine3.jpg You may have to copy and paste. I bought these from Evan purple(ZCAR.COM name) about 3 years ago. The only problem I had with them was I had a back fire do to cam being one tooth off and it popped the throttle shaft seal off. I couldn't find it. I received another from ZTherapy after just a phone call. They covered the seal and shipping, even though I didn't buy the SU's from them. Let me know if this is something your interested in.

Alot better idle and a higher rpm was what I found going with the MSD 6AL. I finally gapped mine to .040

Pull the distributor cap and see if there are points. If you have the ignition module then the only way that you have points is if someone replaced the dissy. An MSD will work fine with any distributor. MSD 6AL is what I am using in my early 260 with electronic ignition.

I had some mixed feelings about buying the Phantom Grip, but after a group buy was available I couldn't resist. Upon trying to put it in I found, like some others that had purchased one, it didn't fit correctly. After minimal milling I managed to get it in. I haven't had much driving time with it, but I did notice better traction, except on slippery surfaces. Even in those circumstances it was very predictable. I took my Z to a track day out at Motorsports Ranch, but unfortunately it was raining that day and we didn't get to play at high speeds, but 4 wheel drifts around corners on the slick surface was a blast! I haven't pulled the drain plug to check for signs of metal since installation. I did notice just the other day as I was trying to remove the drive shaft that it is very hard to rotate the wheels by hand. I'm sure it has added alot of internal friction, but I'm sure it's not to much more then any other true LSD available. Would I do it again? Probably. Is it worth the expense. I would say yes, all assuming that I don't find those signs of metal I need to check for. Will it hold up to big power? I'll let everyone know as soon as my Z gets back from paint jail and I finish the turbo conversion. Is this post long enough? I hope it helped.

I have had this problem on several occasions and even logging out and back in hasn't helped. I can't see any of the normal sig pics when checking posts(which is ok), but i usually can't see any pics people put with there posts(actually IN the post). I never had this problem until the new format. And NO, I'm not on AOL!