ComicArtist

Or you could just run coilovers that have independent height and preload adjustment.... that would solve the droop problems and ride a lot better than rolling around slammed on completely compressed shocks.

Why are you talking about weld in camber plates? S130 strut tower tops are big enough to use bolt ons. People have been using s13/14 camber plates for years.

It's been done before. Seems easy, but the aforementioned geometry issues come into play. Also there is a problem with the angle of the balljoint on the lca going to the s13 spindle. It jus doesn't really work.

Hey! I'm surprised I haven't seen you on here yet.

I'm actually not sure. I think they're just cheapo universal mirrors, they were on the car when I got it a few years ago. Did a shoot with my roommates s13 yesterday.

What you SHOULD do is run 205/50's and flares.... you'll love it

I've been following this thread ever since 09, my junior year of high school and when I got my first S30, my '78. Gotta say, this thing is everything I expected! Great job, keep up the great work. I'm extremely jealous of your fabrication skills, I hope someday mine are somewhere near as good!

Had to massage the inside of the frame rails with a hammer a bit, the bottom of the rad was about 3/16" too wide. Besides that, it was just drilling new bolt holes and making an upper hose.

Sweeeeeet. Tony, haven't talked with you in a while. I've been too busy building my RX-7 to pay much attention to the Z lately, just been driving it. The stock fan shroud won't fit with the radiator, so I'll probably just get a thermostat and some flexalites when I get the money. I was pretty pleased with the fitment, here's some pics if anyone's interested. And here's a couple pics of my RX-7 if anyone's interested haha

My 78 with a bone stock L28 started overheating. Radiator had a big crack, which is probably why it overheated. So I replaced it with a Koyo S13 SR20 radiator, and removed the thermostat because I suspected it being clogged. This was just a temporary solution until I could get to a parts store to get a new thermostat. However, I've driven it to work since then, and it WON'T get above 130 degrees. Driving, it goes right above 120, and goes to about 130 at stoplights. And it doesn't even have a fan shroud. Any opinions why it's doing this, temp sensor is good, plenty of coolant.

I had mine welded with plates, won't run anything besides double plates now. I have yet to break a weld, and both of my diffs have been on track cars.

With all due respect, I prefer to think that it's simpler than that. IMO, harshness comes down to either a) SPRING PRELOAD Shock travel (not having enough) c) Tire sidewall (to an extent) It mostly depends on your preload. Too much preload will cause your springs to be wayy too stiff, no matter what your spring rates. Too little preload will cause you to ride the bumpstops, and you'll have no dampening. Spring rates are fairly irrelevant if they're set up right. I'm running 10/12k springs comfortably. Tire sidewall isn't going to affect it too much. I'm running a stretched 205/50/15 with 55psi in each tire and it's comfortable. I'd look into your preload. On an afterthought, what's your tire pressure? A 275/40 should be a decent enough sidewall for mild comfort.

You know the nut that fastens the top of your shock to the tophat? Basically it raises that point anywhere from 1" to 3", which eliminates your spring droop. I've never seen a set for S30's, but I've considered fabbing one. I ran them on my Miata, its a must for coilovers that don't have independent height and preload adjustment. Helper springs will keep tension on the spring when the load is taken off the suspension, but it doesn't help the fact that as soon as you set the car down, your shock is overcompressed.

Or you could run extended tophats, completely eliminating the need for droop limiters and eliminating your droop entirely. It'll also be better for your dampers and will ride better.

That's what I was thinking, s13 parts are abundant where I'm located and if I recall correctly the piston/pad size is bigger than the early 280zx caliper. I'll definitely give it a shot

Part number is 44155-N3202. Actually the brackets from an 810 wagon, cheaper incidentally.

Never mind! Figured it out. One more question though; I've read all the swap guides and no one seems to really address using a 240sx caliper. Will it work with a 280zx rotor and the maxima brackets?

Just picked up a set of Maxima caliper brackets to do my disc swap, but they're not the same part number as the online writeup says. Anyone know what these are for?

I'm pretty low. Only thing that rubs is my frame rails on the ground.

Just a few random pics I've snapped lately. Made some boso pipes as well.

Hm well I just picked up a '76 harness to use, I might just get a 76 distributor as well to avoid complication.

Don't listen to anyone else, bolt pattern is 6x137.3 I'm surprised anyone thought they knew the answer, it's pretty rare information, I've never seen it anywhere on the Internet before. You're going to need something with an offset of -25 or lower to clear the brake calipers in the rear, anything higher than that will rub

That's a good idea! I might have to, forgot about the ignition module. Are the 76's different from the 78's? And I more than likely will be her future mechanic, but it'll be her daily so I'm keeping it as stock as possible for reliability haha.