alexideways

I'm not an expert here, as I've never seen one for real either but, from what I've read, I think the major problem with the SR swap is that the engine sits right on the crossmember. Thus, I "THINK" that the aforementioned crossmember needs to be modified or it'll leave the engine at an odd angle which would be hard on the driveshaft's U-joints. Nowadays, I think that an SR20 isn't that much cheaper than an RB25... I would stay with the L28ET until you finish school, as it's WAY easier (read bolt in) to fit. + you'll probably be able to sneak in more power out of that old engine since it'll probably bring less attention from DAD.

There, I fixed the tread to make things CLEAR!!!!!!!

Hun!!! Well I'll be damned, I was sure that the 26 didn't have the rear hole for the dipstick. Don't know how I came up with that... Thanks for straightening things out...

From what I know, (Don't have an RB26 so, never took a close look into those) the windage tray inside the pan needs to be modified to fit the RB26 block. If you say that the pan is already modified, you should be OK. One thing to note is... the RB26 block has the oil pick up in the front instead of in the middle, like the RB20-25-30 blocks so, you need to modify your oil pickup to reach the rear bowl.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118808

^^^^ Sure looks like it... the engine bay itself looks eerily similar too...

Thanks for the clarification guys, I had forgot all baout V6 Camaros and Mustangs. I'm not really into that type of car so, I don't know much about them.

Here's some more... Pics. 1- Dipstick, tube and rear "blank" hole brass plug. (R32-33-34, RB20-25-30 Vs. Z31 200ZR RB20DET) 2- Rear "blank" hole brass plug. You hammer this one out with a punch from underneath and reuse it to plug the, now open, front dipstick hole. (R32-33-34, RB20-25-30 + 26 Vs. Z31 200ZR RB20DET) 3- Relocated dipstick. (R32-33-34, RB20-25-30 + 26 Vs. Z31 200ZR RB20DET) 4- Front pickup. (R32-33-34, RB20-25-30) 5- Rear pickup. (Z31 200ZR RB20DET)

It's gorgeous! WOW!

Here, Mr. party pooper...lol (J/K) I hadn't taken into account the curves of the blades so, I went back at it and found another solution. How about this... I removed the fan blade, I switched it the right way around but, I mounted it behind the clutch instead of in front. It still sticks out a bit more than the original but, it should do the trick. Otherwise, a few washers between the fan and clutch and it'll do it.

For real tight spaces, I've seen guy who made themselves masks with thick leather, kind of like an old goalie's mask and they'd integrate the welding goggles.

Hi, just took pics of my new oil pick-up, I'll post pics of the pans side by side when I get them. Pics: 1- both oil pick ups. (R32-33-34, RB20-25-30 Vs. Z31 200ZR RB20DET) 2-Both oil pans from the drain plug side. (R32-33-34, RB20-25-30 Vs. Z31 200ZR RB20DET) 3-Both oil pans from the turbo drain side. (R32-33-34, RB20-25-30 Vs. Z31 200ZR RB20DET) 4-Both pans from the bottom. (R32-33-34, RB20-25-30 Vs. Z31 200ZR RB20DET) 5-Both pans from inside. (R32-33-34, RB20-25-30 Vs. Z31 200ZR RB20DET)

For $1200, for a new diff., bearings, bolts and seals with the housing AND a finned cover AND shipping included... I wouldn't mind fetching another ringgear, LOL...

:eek:Wow, what an INCREDIBLE deal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Jump on this!!!!!!!!!!!

I didn't say it was cheap but, it was still AHELLUVA lot cheaper than the 300ZXtt. Can you please explain where you see similarities between the Camaro and 240SX except for both being RWD??? The 240SX has WAY more in common with the Z32 and R32-33-34 skylines than the Camaro or Mustang. Same basic structure, brakes, suspension... Hell, I thought that to qualify as a PONY car, you needed solid axle and V8!?! P.S.: I'm not trying to pick up a fight here, just debating;-)

No prob. Mike... My pleasure!!!

Here's the rest of the MAF pics. 6 trough 9.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=107997&highlight=obx

Check E-bay for the OBX diff, it's a knock-off of the Quaïf and it's around $380, it's been reported as a good unit with sloppy assembly and cheap Belleville springs. You can buy the springs for really cheap at Mcmaster and you only need to reassemble it correctly.

Thanks Mack, I was trying to figure out a simple way to explain it but, you summed it up in a couple of layman's therms.