alexideways

How much are you willing to pay for the clip? I could check in one of the salvage auctions I'm a member at and if something good come up, we could arange for you to pay the auction and I'd have it shipped straight to your place. I'll check in the auctions near you, so you can either, pick-up or have it delivered for cheap...

It sure will "FIT", but not without a certain amount off work. Don't think of it as a weekend project. You are starting with the right base though, since the FWD casting has better mounting point alignment than the RWD ones. Then you have to source some RWD intake & exhaust manifolds... probably quite a bit of wiring involved too, since technology has came a long way since the 80's. You should take a look at 240SX forums, as it's the new cheap way to make power with these cars, since Nissan puts it in just about every car they make and it's 200 something Hp's N/A...

I think you can convert from pull to push, but not from push to pull. Meaning you can use an RB25 clutch on the 26, but can't use an RB26 clutch with RB25 tranny. Don't know why though... I'm really not positive on this as I read this a while ago and it could be misleading info. or my memory playing games, I'll try and find it again and'll come back to you...if I can find it.

I have this opportunity to buy a car in California, but I'm having problems finding a competent car shipping company that can answer questions quickly and precisely. I need to have the car shipped from Panorama city, Ca, 91402 to Montreal, Qc, Canada, H4C-3H2. Anyone could give me a quick quote or direct me to a good website for this purpose, it would be much appreciated. Thanks. Alex.

Hey! Phil!!! Was just wondering... How many bones do you guys break on average, before you're able to do stoppies sitting on the handle bars like that???? Man I've seen some bad crashes on YouTube... Sorry for that guys, back to topic.

Wow, it's cool to see this thread finally picking up some speed... Keep it goin' guys, it's VERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRY interesting!!!!!!!!! Thanks.

Yeah, but if the cheap company buys it's cores at the same manufacturer as the name brands, copy the end tanks and have at least a 3/4 decent welder, you can expect it to perform similarly. Maybe not as well as the name brand, but close enough to have a very good quality/price ratio, no? I'm just asking/discussing, I'm no expert.

I'm from Montreal and I'm the only guy I know with an S30, so I'd be more than interested in meeting some new Z friends, even if it means a couple houres driving, driving the Z is supposed to be fun.

One of my friend actually had an chevette with a 305 and 4 speed manual, it was hillarious to ride around in that thing. When we were at alight and he would just lean in the gas while letting the clutch slip a bit, you could feel and see the car twist. He used to beat on Mustangs and Camaros with that thing... LOL Good memories.

Well, I would have said an E31 too, but I'd go with the new M5's V10, cause I have easy access to all the parts. I'd also go with an 71 Camaro with something like DOHC twin turboed Lexux V8 And it's kind of pretty funny, cause I also once thought about the Attack with a K20 instead of the H22, but while we are there, let's go with a K24 bottom with K20A head and a small, fast spooling turbine... Since two of my coices are allready yours, I'll go with a fourth one... I'd like one of them second gen MR2 with a supercharged V6. Ok, one more. A first gen. Celica with an Altezza's 3SGTE and a Miata rear subframe for it's independent rear suspention, rear discs and diff. package.

I always thought that a Chevette would make a funny sleeper, I even thought of dropping my SR20 that I had at one time, cause I couldn't find a decent chassis for a reasonable price. I would have called it either a Chevillia or Silviette.

Good call

I don't think this would apply to you but I've heard that alluminum and methanol fuels don't like eachother.

I would first start and dive in the cylinders with a good honing tool and see what comes up, it looks awful, but it might just be surface rust... Who sells these blocks??? I might be interested, cause, as I said before, I ordered 4, (since it's the same price to ship 1-4) sold 3, kept the best looking one for myself, but it ended up being cracked, so there are 3 lucky people out there and I left myself stranded . Otherwise, we could try to arrange something for both of us with some Aussie guys on this board. They usually can get them for around $50-100 AU and it costed me only $350 CAN to have them shipped. We could order 2 each, sell the other one and get ours for free lol... Let me know. The big plus on this situation is that the guys over there can check the engines and pick the GOOD ones before they ship. One last thing, if you get a good one that you wouldn't need to rebuild right away, get an N/A block as if you go with the turbo block, you'll end up with an awfuly low comp. ratio.

I'd try to find some RB26DETT ones as they are a bit smaller and are allready desinged to be used on an 2 intake system... plus, they are cheaper on evil-bay than the Z32 ones. We all know that a GT-R can easily go up the the power figure you are looking at. Just my $0.02 Alex.

Ask him to do a better price and you could buy it for the few good parts that are left AND the intake...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120092217736

Does the Skyline has the same spline cound and shft diameter, on the hub end as the 240SX??? I might have a super deal on rear 5 lug hubs for my S13, but don't want to end up with a none fitting part. Thanks.

RB30 base (out of the 4 I had ordered, the cleanest one that I kept for myself ended up being cracked) with RB26 head and a VATN turbine. Not in a ground up resto... which I tought Hoke's car was...

One of my friends have one and he worked on it so much, that he now knows it by heart. Whenever he needs big work done, he "simply" drop the whole subframe/drivetrain and work on a bench, he told me he's so used to doing this that it takes him no more than an hour to drop the thing down. He probably took the drivetrain out at least 15 time in the last year LOL.

You funny... Thanks, I'll keep lookin' then.

Thanks dude!!! It did help. (Even though you just bursted my bubble LOL)

:iagree:My bad, It was a typo, that's what I was going to say, the only NONE VTC RB25 heads were on the first series N/A 25s. You answered your own question here, it all depends on the price. It might be a good deal for a working engine, but might not be such a good one for a piece of junk. Check around various sites to see how much a gasket set, timing kit, rings and so forth cost and add it to the price of the engine. Then factor in the time you'll have to spend to, first do the job and second wait for all the parts to come in trough the mail and you'll see that it might no be such a good deal after all. On an other note, the most flagrant difference that I can see between the two engines is, the RB20 has ribbed valve covers and the RB25 has smooth covers. EDIT: Never minde my last comment, I just saw an RB20 with smooth covers.

I was wondering, how hot must the oven be to cure PowderCoating??? I'm asking cause, I have this weird fantasy of having my whole car powdercoated, but the only guy I found who had an oven big enough to fit my car in, ended having the oven doors 4 1/2" to narrow to fit the car. My main question here is, can I cure powdercoating with high heat lamps like a high pressure sodium or metal hallide (H.I.D) lamp??? Thanks. Alex.